Saturday, December 7, 2013

Where Rocks Come Alive: Banshee Canyon and the Hole-In-The-Wall at Mojave National Preserve

Date: March 10 and November 29, 2013.
Place: Hole in The Wall, Mojave National Preserve, California
Coordinates: 35.04217, -115.39499
Difficulty: Easy, but to complete the loop requires two short spans of rings climb.

Nine years ago we stopped at Mojave National Preserve on our way to Utah. We climbed on the Kelso Dunes and let the elder (then the only) chika make little sand angels with her legs. It was a wet and windy day and we didn't stay there very long.

Last March I took my botanist friend there. Once again it was to be a stop on our way to another destination, the Joshua Tree National Park. We did, however, visit another part of the preserve: the Hole in the Wall at the Providence Mountains, and hiked the little Rings Loop trail. It was on that day that I resolved to return to Mojave desert as soon as possible. This past Thanksgiving break I fulfilled my resolution and took my family there for camping, along with another family of friends. Of course we did the rings loop again! It is a very beautiful and interesting hike with a bit of climbing excitement included. I post here photos from both times I hiked this trail: that of a late afternoon in March and that of an early morning in November.

The trailhead of the rings loop is at the south-most end of the Hole-in-the-Wall information center. A massive red stone hill to the right:
3/10/13
 and an open plain dotted with desert shrubbery to the left:
11/29/13
I have always been fascinated by desert plants. I admire the resilience and beauty of these apparently unassuming shrubs.
Goldenbush (Ericameria sp.) 11/29/13
They have strong personalities, these desert plants :-)
Buckhorn Cholla (Cylindropuntia acanthocarpa) 11/29/13
On the March hike, we set out to look for flowers, and saw only very few. Turns out that November this year was a much better time to catch the blossoms:
Eastern Mojave Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum) 11/29/13
None of the annuals. Just the shrubs were blooming. That was enough to make me happy. 
Desert Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua) 11/29/13
We did see one shrub in bloom last March: the bare-looking and pungent-smelling Turpentine Broom.
Turpentine Broom (Thamnosma montana) 3/10/13
In November I saw the bright yellow fruits of the same plant. 
Turpentine Broom (Thamnosma montana) 11/29/13
Another shrub with interesting fruit caught my eye: the delicate Bladder Sage.
Mexican Bladder Sage (Scutellaria mexicana) 11/29/13
 The trail enters through a small gate leading into grazing area. To the right, the rocks bear the marks of the original inhabitants of the area: Native American petroglyphs. 
3/10/13
 There was constant chirping on the hill slope. Many of the little singers were white-crowned sparrows, which are quite common there.
White-crowned Sparrow 11/29/13
Some of these little brown birds were rock wrens, which were, as their name implies, standing vigilant on top of boulders.
Rock Wren 11/29/13
 I photographed these birds last March too, but the ever-patient Papa Quail managed to acquire better shots. He also managed to capture this cute and very quick squirrel at the split second it stood to pose:
Antelope Ground Squirrel 11/29/13
As I looked through my November photos I discovered that the same plant had caught my eye again: this small, red barrel cactus nestling between the green-gray shrubs:
11/29/13 Barrel Cactus
They are strewn all over the hill slope north of the trail:
3/10/13
 I can think of no better place to live than the edge of a cliff:
A Barrel Cactus in a rock crevice, 3/10/13
The trail curves to the right at the bottom of the hill. As it loops back to the north this impressive butte comes into view. It reminded me of a sphinx in guard.
11/29/13
 This ancient sphinx must be guarding the entrance to Banshee Canyon, which is the actual hole in the wall:
The entrance to Banshee Canyon, 11/29/13
Banshee Canyon is so named because of the sound the wind makes there. It wasn't windy either time I was there but on our recent hike we all had much fun playing with the echos there.
In March we saw many swallows flying about. They were very fast and I couldn't get any clear photograph of them. They weren't there in November, but there was this magnificent red-tailed hawk soaring above the rocks:
Red-tailed Hawk 11/29/13
The rocks there are a true celebration to the eyes. One doesn't have to travel all the way to Utah to see arches. (That said, I would love very much to go hiking in Utah).
Rock arch near the Banshee Canyon entrance, 11/29/13
Banshee Canyon is short and deep and rich with beautiful rock formation. The one that really got me blown away is right inside the entrance: these two rock 'heads' facing each other in eternal mutual regard. As long-time Pink Floyd fans, both my botanist friend and I were immediately reminded of the cover art of their last studio album: The Division Bell. It was late in the afternoon when we were there and only the right figure was in the light, while the left was already in the shade. We couldn't get a good photo of both figures together. Last November, however, we were there in the morning and, knowing what awaited me in Banshee Canyon, I rushed ahead and managed to photograph the two faces in the same light before anyone else in the group had gone down there.
11/29/13
Once I was satisfied we all took turns posing for photographs inside the left person's nostril :-)
There isn't much vegetation inside Banshee Canyon so this yucca really stands out there.
Yucca schidigera
To complete the loop one has to climb sheer rock. It's not all that high and there is help: two lines of iron rings hammered into the rock, which give the loop trail its name. That was what the kids were waiting for (as was I).
3/10/13
Completing the climb we exited the canyon into the picnic area. There is an observation deck there, overlooking another turn of Banshee Canyon and there were many birds chirping about.
The children were not satisfied yet, and went about climbing some more on the nearby rocks. Only the words "visitor center" and "gift shop" managed to peel the youngsters off the rock face.

Looking from a distance, who can tell all the excitement hidden behind those rocks? 
11/29/13 A view of Hole in the Wall from the campground
I totally recommend this hike. It is short and easy (people who don't wish to climb the rings can do it as an in-and-out trail), and it is packed with the rich beauty of Mojave desert.


Thursday, November 28, 2013

A Thirsty Wetland: Fall Hikes at Coyote Hills Regional Park

Dates: November 7, 8 and 9, 2013
Place: Coyote Hills Regional Park, Fremont, California
Coordinates: 37.55026, -122.08607

I reside near Coyote Hill Regional Park and visit there frequently. I have seen the season changes, observed the wildlife, and attended several events and class field trips there. I have never before seen it so dry as in this fall. Never before have I witnessed the waterfowl-rich ponds parched-dry and the reeds thoroughly browned. It was a mystery to me.
I hiked in Coyote Hills several times earlier this month. The place is beautiful any time of year but this fall it was very tranquil and calm. I post here about three of these hikes.


Meadowlark loop
Length: about 2.5 miles
Difficulty: easy

 The Meadowlark loop I hiked by myself, checking to see if it would be suitable to lead the chikas' 4H group on. On the first hike I took photographs of the unexpectedly dry wetland and wondered about the cause.

I started hiking at the Quarry staging area, the parking that's about 1/2 a mile before the visitor center. The first lag of the trail is a paved road leading to Dairy Glen group campground. A small hill oversees the trail from the north. Pretty rock layers tell the tale of moving ground from long ago.
The hill overlooking the Quarry staging area.
I was focusing on the beautifully decorated, large Toyon bush on the hilltop. The red berries are, as I recently learned at the latest Ohlone Gathering, very good to eat. 
Fruit-laiden Toyon
The trees at the Dairy Glen campground are a perching place for scrub jays, kestrels and white-tailed kites. I noted the pair of white-tailed kites that were sitting there, but couldn't get a good enough photo of them. Passing the campground, I walked along what used to be the South Marsh.
The South Marsh
The reeds were completely dry and the ground parched and cracked. Bothered, I did something I don't normally do while hiking: I stepped off the trail and ventured into the reeds to see if I could find any wildlife there. There was nothing. No birds, not even rabbits.
Just dry and drying vegetation. 
The South Marsh
Bewildered still, I returned to the trail. There were quite a few birds there: all sparrows. 
Sparrows strewn on the Meadowlark Trail.
One of them was an unusual species for the area. Not one we've seen before: the Brewer's Sparrow.
Brewer's Sparrow
There aren't many trees in that area. The few that were there were turning their leaves. Fall colors are beautiful in California too!

At the edge of the park the trail takes a sharp turn right and begins ascending uphill. A small flacon was perched on one of the poles that are along the trail, but each time I walked closer, the falcon flew a bit further and eventually flew away altogether.
My disappointment over not having photographed the falcon was dispelled when I got to the hilltop and looked west: 
Cargill Salt ponds
The view is gorgeous there, no doubt. At that point I was still unaware of the role these ponds play in the current state of affairs at the park. 
I strolled down towards Bayview Trail, then took a few steps west into the salt ponds realm on No Name trail, enticed by the shore birds that were wading to and fro in the tranquil pond:

Most of these birds were American Avocets:
American Avocet
A sole egret was wading in the mud by the pond north of the trail. It was a good day for reflections! 
Snowy Egret
From that point it was a short walk back to the campground and the parking lot. The Meadowlark Loop is a very nice trail and easy walk. I preferred, however, to take the group on a different trail, away from the now dry wetland.



No-Name Trail
Length: in and out to one's content. We walked about 1 mile in before turning back.
Difficulty: easy

On the following day I visited Coyote Hills again: this time with a friend. We went looking for birds  and headed directly to No Name Trail.

Firefighters were drilling at the campground. There was no sight of the kites. We did, however, saw this meadowlark perched on a tall dry fennel on the hillside:
Western Meadowlark
The group of shore birds at the nearest salt pond seemed more diverse than the day before. The avocets were there still, but there were also plenty of other waders. Every now and then, a group of them would take into the air, circle the pond a couple of time, then land back in approximately the same place they were before.

Somewhat away from the group, a sole yellowlegs was searching the mud for morsels.
Greater Yellowlegs
There were many pelicans about. Some group-huddling on the levees, some flying above and some floating lazily on the water. And all of them far away.
A white Pelican in the tranquil salt pond
No Name Trail is on a levee between the salt pond. It connects to the Shoreline Trail that stretches south of Dumbarton Bridge to Don Edwards National Wildlife Refuge, and north to the San Leandro Marina. My friend and I didn't go that far. We were enjoying the birds in the near ponds.
Spaced in regular intervals the long white forms of great egrets were sticking out of the water, as still as statues, ambushing fish.
Great Egret
The muddy shore was left to the great blue heron that, surprisingly, didn't fly away when we passed right by it.
Great Blue Heron
Before to long it was time to pick up the chikas from school so we turned around and returned to the parking lot. What a lovely morning we had!



Gilder Hill-Bayview loop
Length: about 2 miles
Difficulty: moderate

On the following day I was, once more, at Coyote Hills Regional Park. This time accompanied by my family and the 4H Hiking Project children and their parents. It was on this hike that I finally got the the sad and not very surprising answer to the riddle of the dry wetland: human interference. Direct, local interference, rather than global changes.

Map section downloaded from EBRPD site. My hike is labeled yellow.
Starting once more at the Quarry Staging Area, we found our first treat right there at the parking lot: a merlin sitting in a nearby tree. Merlins are not a common sight. Two days before it was camera shy. This time it let itself be on display:
Merlin (photographed by Papa Quail)
Not wanting to take the group by the sad and dry marsh, I lead them up Gilder Hill. The hill isn't that high, but the trail is steep and somewhat slippery. There is a picnic table at the top and we stopped for a snack.
On the way up Gilder Hill
Children have their eyes closer to the ground, where they find all kinds of treasures, like this pupa:

A small vehicle came by the dirt road and stopped near us. I went over and asked about the dry wetlands.
The driver, who turned to be the park's supervisor told me the story of the Bay Area salt marshes: of brackish water rising from the bay with the tides and mixing with the fresh runoff water from the hills.
Cargill Salt Corporation has blocked the tidal water from entering the marsh. Unlike in Don Edwards NWR where a slough still allows for bay water to come inland with the tide, at Coyote Hills there is no more salt water feed from the bay. Cargill has stopped it all.
The water that was flooding the wetlands until last year, he told me, was fresh water pumped year-round from underground. The wetland has been transformed from a salt marsh to fresh water marsh. The pickleweed and tule were replaced by reeds and cattails. The animal community has changed too.
This has now stopped. No more water is being artificially pumped into Coyote Hills. The only source of water now would be the rain and runoff water.
If and when Cargill Salt Corporation cuts a pass for tidal water to the wetland, the marsh could be restored. The company, according to their website, tales part in Bay Area Nature conservation projects and takes pride in being environmentally supportive. It aught to take action here too, and allow the tides reach the shores of Coyote Hills and beyond into the marsh land. With so few of the Bay Area wetlands remaining, it is important to save what's left, for the sake of our future!
White Pelicans (photographed by Papa Quail)
Coming down the hill we found ourself right by the salt ponds, where I met the waders again, for the third day in a row.
Dunlins, perhaps?
I could sit there and watch them the whole day but the group was eager to continue.
A willet wading among Dunlins
Coming back toward the hill. a northern harrier swooped by:
Northern Harrier
Before reaching the Dairy Glen campground, Papa Quail split from the group. Intrigued by the Brewer's Sparrow I saw there a couple of days before, he took off on his own to the Meadowlark Trail to see if he could spot that sparrow too.
He didn't see that sparrow, but other kinds:
White-crowned Sparrow, juvenile (photographed by Papa Quail)


And also the resident white-tailed kite:
White-tailed Kite (photographed by Papa Quail)
Now that the rains have begun, I aught to go back there and see if there's any water in the marsh. I miss the ducks ...