Checking Out Two Hotspots at the Newberry Volcano National Monument: Paulina Obsidian Flow and Paulina Falls

Paulina Lake

Date: July 3, 2020

Place: Paulina Crater, Newberry Volcano National Monument

Coordinates: 43.713209, -121.273524

Length: 0.5 mile

Level: strenuous

 

After original plans for the summer of 2020 were nulled by the pandemic we went on a family road trip to central Oregon, staying for the first three days on the area of Klamath Falls and the next four days in Bend. On July 3 we checked out our lodge and started our way back south to California. The drive wasn't supposed to be long so we decided to go back to the Newberry Volcano National Monument, to the area of the Paulina Crater. We had hiked around the Paulina Lake three days before but we didn't see any of the other features of that area. Now we had the time to go and check out a couple of this places before leaving the area completely. 

Our first hike was at the Big Obsidian Flow Trail:

Coordinates: 43.713209, -121.273524

Length: 0.5 mile

Level: moderate

We were interested in seeing the obsidian flow and that's where we started our final day in the Newberry Volcano area. 

Our trail as captured by my GPS

There is a short distance from the parking area to the obsidian flow, and along that trail I found some wildflowers to look at. 

Lupine, Lupinus sp.

Pappa Quail and the elder chika had better time seeing things after their own interests. There were a number of very active birds among the small pine grove near the trailhead. 

House Finch

It was nice that the birds were out in the open and didn't mind us being there, walking right by them.

Cassin's Finch

the trail crossed a small flat area between the pine grove and the big hill of black rocks - a huge pile of obsidian. We could see the shine reflecting from many of the large rocks. A metal staircase led from the plateau below to the height of the obsidian hill. Interpretive signs were posted along the trail, with detailed information about the place and it's significance. 

Obsidian is a glass- like metamorphic rock of volcanic origin. When broken, the exposed surface shines with reflected light. The broken edges are like broken glass - very very sharp. This particular trait was very useful to the native people who made tools from obsidian. The local nation traded obsidian with other nations. 

Obsidian

At the top of the staircase was an observation deck from which we could see a small, murky pond, belted by algae known as 'pond scum'. Pappa Quail and the elder chika scanned the pond, searching for waterfowl, but saw none. 

For the most part, the obsidian flow hills looked completely barren and reminded me very much of the Fantastic Lava Beds in Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Obsidian Flow

Thinking a little further, the area reminded me a bit a scenery from Mordor, sans the orcs.

Obsidian nuggets

The shiny black rocks are the obsidian. Obsidian is metamorphic rock of volcanic origin. It was used by the native nations to make knifes and arrowheads. The local people traded obsidian with far away tribes too.

Obsidian

We continued up the obsidian flow hills, and I found there a few stunted pine trees, too small to cast any comforting shade.

All around the obsidian flow hill, the pine forest was thick and thriving. It was just this pile of rocks that was not favorable for the pines.

 

We walked the narrow trail at the top of the obsidian flow and looked around. Ahead of us loomed Paulina Peak, where we went to see the view after hiking around Paulina Lake. 

Paulina Peak

Paulina Lake itself lay below us, calm and blue. It is a crater lake, simple and beautiful. On the horizon loomed the snowy peaks of Bachelor Mountain and the South Sister. 

Paulina Lake

The volcanic rock pile we were on was almost bare of vegetation. There was hardly any real soil in the cracks. There were a few plants however, that found a roothold there, and they seemed to be thriving. Some were in bloom.

Davidson's Penstemon, Penstemon davidsonii

After we wandered around for a while it was time to go back down. The chikas darted downhill and Pappa Quail followed them. As usual, I lingered behind, checking out the unique sights f the place, like the black, shiny masses of obsidian. 

I captured a bit more of the pond and the pine forest surrounding the obsidian flow. I figured that by the time I'd reach down, my family will be in the car already. 

I was wrong, though. A family of Clark's nutcrackers frolicked on the ground below. There were two adult birds there, and three juveniles that kept pestering them for food, despite being fully fledged and capable f taking care of themselves. But then again, what  do I know about the needs of adolescent corvids. 

Clark's Nutcracker

 

 

 

 

Our second hike was to Paulina Falls:  

Coordinates: 43.712392, -121.276370

Length: 0.5 mile

Level: easy

I convinced Pappa Quail and the chikas that we should go see the Paulina Falls on our way out of the Newberry Volcano area. It was a very short and easy walk, and we had plenty of time still, since we didn't plan to reach Alturas until the evening. 

Our hike as captured by my GPS

We parked again exactly where we started our hike around Paulina Lake three days before. Once again I was captivated by the pretty lupines near the parking area. Today I had better lighting too because the sky was completely clear without a single cloud. 

Tidy Lupine, Lupinus lepidus

We started walking down near the creek. The trail was wide and well maintained and there were many other people hiking there, most of them mask-free and seemed to not worry at all about COVID-19.

Paulina Creek

The elder chika immediately spotted some waterfowl in the creek. Pappa Quail didn't bother to raise his camera though - these were mallards, the most common ducks in the world. 

Mallard, female

As were followed the creek downstream, the stream became more vivacious with spots of whitewater cascades. 

Paulina Creek

My family birders found there the much more interesting American dipper, a bird that lves whitewater area and dives in it in search of food. 

American Dipper

The creek was nearly jammed in places with fallen logs, which made a natural dam. We didn't see any other animals in the water. 

Paulina Creek

We reached the Paulina Falls. I was very glad we made it there - the waterfall was indeed very beautiful, and certainly worth the diversion. I also had a surprise there - on the observation deck over the waterfall I met familiar people - a family of my family hiking group. They too wanted a getaway from the COVID-crazed Bay Area. 

Paulina Falls

The trail continued downhill to the base of the waterfall. I wanted to go down there. The chikas were less enthusiastic but they followed along when Pappa Quail and I started down the trail. 

I even found a wildflower blooming by the stairs on the way down , but I wasn't able to identify it. 

On the bottom of the trail we had anther nice view of the waterfall. It was very interesting to see the crumbling rocks piled up at the bottom of the fall. The water stream continuously breaks down and wears off the lip of the cliff, so the waterfall is constantly receding. 

Paulina Falls

After streaming through the pile of boulders below the waterfall, the creek collects into a calm pool before flowing on downhill. I noticed some movement on the rocks by the pool. Pappa Quail and the elder chika were already training their cameras on what was moving there.  

It was anther American dipper. This time the bird was closer and less fidgety. 

American Dipper

We hanged around at the base of the waterfall for some time, admiring the nature around us. This was our last stop before heading back to California. 

I wanted our vacation to extend longer. At that time we still believed in 'flattening the curve' and Bend was still a sanctuary to which the pandemic hasn't yet reached.  We needed to go back though. I Gave Paulina Creek a sorrowfull goodby look, then started up the trail following my family. 

We made our way back t the car quickly and silently. Pappa Quail snatched a photo of a blackbird, one of the most common birds around. He too wasn't very keen on returning back to the shut-down State of California. 

Brewer's Blackbird

This was our last day in Bend, but not yet the final day of our trip. We drove south to Alturas where we stayed for a couple more nights. Alturas too was a still COVID-free. Everything there was normal as normal could be. They even held the 4th f July parade as always. After observing some of the parade we went on to hike the Emerson Lake Trail at the South Warner Wilderness area. This last hike of our June-July 2020 trip was also the first one of this trip that I wrote about. 

 

A couple of weeks after we returned home the virus reached central Oregon and Bend closed down to visitors. We were fortunate to snatch a piece of heaven before hell closed down on us for two more years. 

A Forest Discovery Hike to Doris Lake

Bear Grass, Xerophyllum tenax

Date: July 2, 2020

Place: Three Sisters Wilderness, Bend, Oregon

Coordinates:  43.953476, -121.802428

Length: 5 miles

Level: moderate

The third day of our stay in Bend, Oregon on the summer of 2020 we hiked at the Three Sisters Wilderness. The Three Sisters, together with Mount Bachelor are the prominent Cascade volcanoes that tower over Bend on the west. The wilderness area, part of the Deschutes National Forest, has a wonderful selection of hiking trails. We hiked three trails there that day, the first one being the longest: an in-and-out hike to Doris Lake. 

Our hike as captured by my GPS

This trail is a backpacking trail which leads deep into the Three Sisters Wilderness. Going to Doris Lake and back however, is a nice day hike that doesn't require any permit or special preparation other than the usual hiking needs such as water, sun protection, and highly recommended also some mosquito repellant. A map or a navigator are always good to have on hikes but the trail is well marked and maintained. 

One of the things I noticed immediately about the Three Sisters Wilderness was that there were many more wildflowers blooming. It was nowhere near a superbloom event but the cooler weather and higher moisture levels certainly supported a more colorful summer.

Lupine

I assume that in no drought years the wildflowers are even more numerous and impressive than what we saw there in the summer of 2020.

Lupine

Not too far into the hike we came upon a little creek that crossed our path. In no drought year I think we might have seen more water, and possibly snow patches. I didn't see anything blooming near the water but the the mosquitoes made their presence clear so we quickly moved on. 

The first part of the hike was relatively flat with only minor uphill grade. the forest we walked through didn't look very healthy. Many of the trees were dead and limbless, lying on the ground or standing yet.  Other trees had only few green branches attached to their tops. There weren't obvious sigs of fire there and I wondered if the state of the forest was the result of the prolonged drought, perhaps in combination with the spread of the deadly boring beetle. I did notice much young growth and regeneration - whatever the prblem was, the forest was fighting back. 

The grade became steeper and we became more spread out. As usual I was walking at the rear. At some point I caught up with the rest of my family because Pappa Quail and the elder chila had seen a bird up a nearby tree. They got excited about this bird, thinking it might be a gray jay, but it turned out that it was a kingbird that had taken a bath and the wet feathers made it look darker. 

Eastern Kingbird

One of the wildflowers we did see plenty of was the bear grass, a plant that was commonly used by the Native Americans for basket making. Like large white candles, these lily-like plants lit the forest floor. It looked like they were still before peak bloom, all fresh blossoms. I couldn't get enough of them. 

Bear Grass, Xerophyllum tenax

As much as I was happy to see the many bear grass blossoms, the height of my botanical pleasure on this hike was when I saw mariposa lilies along the trail. I made a little dance of joy when I saw the first lily, and I stopped to admire it and to take photos when I heard my chika calling me frantically from around the curve ahead were she was. I clicked a few shots pf the lily and I run ahead to see what she was hollering about. It was another mariposa lily that she had found and called me to come and see it, sounding as urgent as if the flower would pull out its roots any moment and walk away ... I was glad that she kept on the lookout for me though. 

Cascade Mariposa Lily, Calochortus subalpinus

It seemed that the deeper we walked into the forest there were more wildflowers growing on the forest floor.

Cinquefoil, Potentilla sp.

The day was getting hot. The elder chika took the opportunity and dipped her hat in a another shallow creek that we crossed on our way. She replaced the dripping hat on her head and marched forward. I followed the wet droplets on the dusty trail.

Near the creek bloomed a few shooting stars. Not in large numbers, but they stood out beautifully against the green and gray of the forest floor. 

Shooting Star, Primula sp.

We saw a glimpse of blue between the trees and I had to calm the excitement of the chikas - this was Blow Lake, about half way to Doris Lake. I think the chikas were ready to settle for this lake but Pappa Quail and I urged them onward.

Blow Lake

I don't remember seeing many birds on this hike but there were some. Pappa Quail and the elder chika made sure not to miss any, even the most common ones.

Dark-eyed Junco

In the same manner, I was trying not to miss anything blooming along the way. It was great to see the lovely berry flowers, like white stars shining in the shade of the trees. 

Dwarf Bramble, Rubus lasiococcus

West of Blow Lake the trail became more ragged and also steeper, going up in a sequence of short high grade segments. The forest became denser too. A few times we spotted the mirror-like surface of a forest pond between the trees, and crossed anther shallow and quiet creek. In silent coordination, we walked quicker too, ready get to Doris Lake. 

Forest Pond

Between the creeks and the little forest ponds the forest soil was parched dry and dusty. Pockets of moisture were preserved under the denser bushes and below the cover of fallen leaves. Not many annual plants were growing in these areas. 

Every now and then I did see a patch of low vegetation that was lush and had wildflowers. Little bunchberry plants, also starlike, were growing in small patches under the trees. 

Western Bunchberry, Cornus unalaschkensis

We arrived Doris Lake and sat down to rest and eat. The trail continued into the wilderness but Doris Lake was as far as we were going. There wasn't any beach or any area that was comfortable to hang around for a while. There wasn't any backpackers' camping space nearby. 

Doris Lake

There were no waterfowl in Doris Lake but insects were plentiful, especially dragonflies and damselflies. The damselflies were busy with mating activities. 

Damselflies

The absence of waterfowl in Doris Lake disappointed my family birders. When we finished our snack break we started back right away without waiting anymore near the lake.  

Bear Grass, Xerophyllum tenax

The little forest birds were a different thing - they were all over the place. All of already familiar species, but Pappa Quail and the elder chika were busy photographing them all. 

Yellow-rumped Warbler

Although we were returning on the same trail we came up on, the sights were different from the new angle. The blooming trillium I saw on our way back. 

Trillium

We walked back downhill almost continuously, taking very few breaks. We did take one break by Blow Lake, the lake we skipped on the way up. Blow Lake had even less of a beach or nice sitting place than Doris Lake had. I took a few photos of the lake while Pappa Quail and the elder chika confirmed the absence of waterfowl in this lake as well.

Blow Lake

 I saw an interesting looking thistle on the way back. I like the thistles despite their thorns and common presence. 

On the way back we also had a direct view of Mount Bachelor. Usually this volcano has  much more snow but the drought and heat had reduced it to  thin hair-like streaks of white. 

Mount Bachelor

The Sisters were less visible from where we were but I did catch a glimpse of the South Sister volcano between the trees.

The South Sister

While I was trying to capture the best images of the majestic Cascade volcanoes, the elder chika found a woodpecker busy on one of the sickly looking pines. It wasn't as exciting as the black-backed woodpecker we saw near Paulina Lake but it was the most exciting bird on this hike.

Hairy Woodpecker

When we crossed the last creek the chikas were ahead of us, speedwalking toward the parking area. I paused to take some more photos of wildflowers growing in the mist soil by the creek and to think of what's next. This 5 miles hike was nice but we walked it quite quickly and the day was still young. 

Monkeyflower, Erythranthe sp.

When we started the hike I ignored the mushrooms that were growing on a dead log by the trailhead. I couldn't ignore them on our return because the young chika pointed them out to me, very proud of her find. They were very lovely looking and I thanked her. 

I wanted this entire day to be at the Three Sisters Wilderness so I suggested another hike nearby, one that I saw on the Audubon Society website, and my suggestion was accepted. So after a short snack break we got in the car and continued to Sparks Lake. 

 

Many thanks to members of the Oregon Native Plants Discussion Group for their help in identifying plants!