Catching the End of Season at the North Table Mountain Preserve

 

 

Date: May 27, 2023

Place: North Table Mountain Preserve, Oroville, California

Coordinates: 39.596029, -121.541825

Length: 2 miles in and out 

Level: easy on top, moderate with the base of the waterfall

 

Last weekend Pappa Quail and I had the opportunity to go away for the weekend, just the two of us. Pappa Quail was too busy to weigh in on the planning and so I chose to go to Oroville, hoping to see some wildflowers there. The North Table Mountain Preserve is one of the best hotspots for wildflowers in California. The photos I've seen posted by others on this superbloom spring were absolutely spectacular. Not only that, but the waterfalls were running high and strong. Now, peak bloom there is in early to mid-April and the end of May is way too late to see either superbloom or waterfalls. I knew all that of course, but I didn't get the chance to go there in season, and I hoped that I could see some leftover bloom after the wet winter we've had.

I remembered having seen on my previous trip there mariposa lilies blooming by the roadside near the trailhead. My hope increased when I saw that they were blooming still on this trip. We didn't stop by the lilies on the way to the trailhead. This photo is from the way back after the hike).

Yellow Mariposa, Calochortus luteus

When we neared the preserve I sighed. Most of the table mountain top was already bone dry. Some greenery remained in the are of the trailhead near the giant oak tree. There was a patch of yellow flowers in the center of the green mat. It was the sight of spring hanging on for just a little longer.

Near the trailhead

 

Right by the trailhead there is a huge oak tree. As soon as we started down the trail Pappa Quail saw a few little birds flying into the tree and stopped. I walked further down the trail to the yellow patch and found that it was of mainly yellow monkeyflowers - a very water loving plant. In between the monkeyflowers were other wildflowers, mostly the modest variegated clover. Underneath the plants the earth was moist - water was still seeping from the earth at that place. 

Seep Monkeyflower. Erythranthe guttata, and Variegated Clover, Trifolium variegatum

 

I waited for Pappa Quail for a few long minutes during which I saw him walk back and forth between the oak tree and the frying grass field on the other side of the trail. Eventually he motioned me to come over and when I did he told me that the little birds that he saw were Lowrence goldfinches, which apparently, are an uncommon sight.

 

He was very pleased to get some nice photographs of these rare goldfinches.  

Lawrence Goldfinches, male (top) and female (bottom)

 

It was late in the afternoon, on the end of our drive from home that we arrived at the North Table Mountain Preserve. It was pretty hot still, and there were only a few other people about. We started down the path along the narrow creek line. 

Our hike as captured by my GPS

 

The creek was well marked with the yellow line of the monkeyflowers, the thin line of surface water shining in the middle. Only a yard away from that life line of water the vegetation was dead and dry and the volcanic rocks bare and baking in the sun. 

 

Well, almost dead and dry. Here and there, I could see on the rocks some annual plants that were still in the process of completing their life cycle, like the jewelflower  that I usually note when it's blooming but is just as fitting its name when it fruits the line of hanging seed pods and the drying round leaves assume the color of gold coins. 

Jewelflower, Streptanthus sp. 

The trail followed closely the thin creek. I was glad to see that it was flowing still, even if a trickle. This creek is fed entirely by the little spring near the trailhead. It also supports that huge old oak there. I assume it dries out at some point. The vegetation near the creek was all green and lush, and looked like as if it never knew drought. Most of of the flowers here too were the monkeyflowers still but other species seemed more and more common the further down the trail we walked.      

Checker Mallow, Sidalcea sp. 

 

In some places the moisture spread somewhat farther away from the thin creek, supporting a wider belt of greenery. The distinct lines of color between the dry and bare to the green and blossom was very clear.

 

We contemplated going to see Phantom Falls, which we never had the chance to see before. Phantom Falls are at the north of the preserve and is the waterfall that usually stars on the online photos of the North Table Mountain Preserve. As we came upon the trail junction however, we met two hikers that were coming back from there. They told us that the waterfall was completely dry and that there was very little bloom left. Pappa Quail and I decided to save that hike for a different trip. Instead, we continued straight to Hollow Falls, where we went on all of our previous visits to the preserve.

 

The little creek and whatever water saved underground supports a few trees along the way. In turn, these trees support wildlife, including birds.   

Ash-throated Flycatcher

While Pappa Quail was looking for the birds I was looking for the flowers. Here and there between all the monkeyflowers I found other species of wild flowers.

White Meadowfoam, Limnanthes alba 

 

The trail isn't long and soon we were at the top of Hollow Falls. The thin trickle of water stretched all the way to the brink so we decided to go down to the base of the fall.

 

The trail down has always been a bit precarious and this time was no different. I walked very carefully on the less than foot-wide path that was at times very close to the precipice. Way below I could see one plant species that was certainly at its peak bloom - the California Buckeye tree. 

 

Pappa Quail was already descending down while I appreciated the view. When I caught up with him I saw that he was focused on one of the trees near the trail. I waited patiently until he was satisfied with the photos he got of that little brown bird. 

Western Wood Pewee

The lower part of trail downhill was more manageable and less scary. It was also more protected area, and much richer in vegetation. The west-facing side of the canyon cut by that little creek (which does run strong after powerful systems) was full of trees. Most were buckeye and oak, but I also spotted a few madrones. 

Trail

 

Below one of the trees I spotted a single straggling clarkia blooming. All of its friends were already done with that phase. 

Woodland Clarkia, Clarkia unguiculata 

 

The buckeye however, were at their peak bloom. I love the chandelier look of these trees when in full bloom, all covered with the flame-looking inflorescences.

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica 

 

The trail drops to the canyon bottom a bit downstream of he base of the waterfall. The 'stream' was nonexistent, though.

 

We walked to the base of the waterfall. A thin film of moisture glistened on the waterfall chute and the pond at the bottom was the size of a small puddle. We sat down on a fallen log in the shade of a luxurious buckeye tree, ate our snacks, and enjoyed the quiet solitude.   

Hollow Falls

  

The North Table Mountain is made of volcanic rock that eroded with time and weathering. Looking up at the lip of the canyon at the place we descended from. There were pillars of basalt there, not completely formed into hexagons, but they did remind me of the Devil's Postpile National Monument. I was mesmerized by the moon floating above the rock pillars formation.

 

Above us floated also a red-tailed hawk. Pappa Quail didn't bother to point his camera at it, but I did. I wanted to remember it was there. 

Red-tailed Hawk

 

Eventually it was time to get up and go back. At the bottom of the canyon I noticed a weird looking buckeye tree. When I got closer I realized that the tree was covered entirely by wild California grape, and had only its blossoms poking through the vine cover.

Grape-covered buckeye tree

 

Pappa Quail started ascending but I had to get closer to check that grape-buckeye chimera.  I wonder how can the tree get enough sunshine underneath the grape.     

 

 

Near the tree bloomed some thistle plants of an invasive species. A swallowtail butterfly was enjoying the thistle flowers. It was heavy and flew slowly despite the heat. It didn't seem to mind my presence so close.

Pipevine Swallowtail

 

Back on the canyon lip I found a safe spot and gazed down to the base of the waterfall. I was impressed by how much thicker the vegetation was just below the table mountain top. Such a big difference that the angle makes.

Hollow Falls

 

We were returning on the same trail but going back I did notice some things that I had missed earlier, like this really tiny lupine, the only one I saw there that day.  

Lupine, Lupinus sp. 

 

We had a quiet walk back. There were even fewer people around now. A couple that found a romantic spot under a tree was there still. We passed them quietly and I thought to myself that this was a lovely spot to pass a few romantic hours.

 

 

We approached again the stand of trees that thrived on the little creek. Pappa Quail spotted another bird there and hurried over there to find it with his camera while I paced slowly along the creek.  

 

Pappa Quail found the bird. It was a flycatcher, possibly the same one he saw there earlier.   

Ash-throated Flycatcher

 

I found something even more interesting (in my opinion, of course): a little garter snake that was swimming in the creek. I called Pappa Quail over and he came in time to see the snake too.  

Mountain Garter Snake, Thamnophis elegans

 

All the other wildlife I saw near or on the water were bugs. Like this water walker that I frequently see in creek waterholes.  

 

There were quite a few damselflies by the water as well. So little water, and so much life it supports! I wonder what do all these animals do when the water dries up in summer. It occurred to me that I don't know that the spring by the trailhead actually dries up, I simply assumed it does. I need to check it out.

Damselfly

 

We competed the rest of the hike and knew that we won't be back there tomorrow. We saw what there was to see, which was not much but also quite a lot, considering how late in season we were there. We decided to head up to the mountains on the morrow, for a change in scenery and to escape the heat.

 

On our way back to Oroville we stopped so I could take a photo of the mariposa lilies that I spotted earlier. On the other side of the road behind a fence was a pond with a few ducks. While I was giving attention to the mariposa lilies Pappa Quail looked at the ducks. The little pond looked lie a lot of water compared to the thin creek we just hiked alone.

 

Proximity to water is everything in the plant world. The grass near the road was too far from the pond, and very dry already. I was happy to see some brodiae flowers blooming in the dry grass and a snapped a quick photo before getting back into the car.

Brodiae sp.

The North Table Mountain Preserve is one of those places that have an incredibly short season in which the pauper becomes a prince. In recent years it had gained much popularity among flower seekers, and the crowds can be dangerous to the delicate beauty of this place. I was there before during a super bloom year so I don't feel sad about coming again at the end of the season, as the prince slowly returns back to his pauper sleep. It has its serene beauty still, but without the crowds.  

 

The Table is Set: A Boom Bloom at the North Table Mountain Ecological Reserve

Date: April 14, 2018
Place: North Table Mountain Ecological reserve, Oroville, California
Coordinates:  39.59555, -121.54164
Length: 1.5 miles in and out
Level: easy

Last spring was a super bloom year in California. This year the rains came late and I already resigned to the thought that this spring will be just nice, not mind blowing. For some of the places of last year's boom bloom that is true, but thankfully other places more than compensate for it. After seeing the online posts with photos from Oroville's North Table Mountain Ecological reserve I looked for an opportunity to go there. That came last weekend when my mother came to visit me with her friend and I convinced them (with ease) that Oroville was the place to see.
We left home just before noon on Saturday and took our time, including a lunch stop, to get to Oroville. As we made our way along the narrow, winding road leading from the town to the reserve I got a strange feeling that we might not be alone there, as in our last visit. Many cars were parked along the road, indicating that the small parking area is probably full. People were walking up and down the narrow, shoulders road, slowing down our drive. Already I could see colorful carpets of wildflowers behind the cattle fences on either side of the road.
Perhaps it was because we arrived relatively late that we found parking fairly close to the trailhead, just outside the parking lot. It took us some extra moments to clear all the cars and people that were between ourselves and the reserve but when we finally made it through the (new) gate we stopped and stood there, gaping.

The sky below: A field dominated by Lupinus nanus and Cryptantha intermedia 

I have been at the North Table Mountain Reserve before and it was beautiful, but nowhere close to the colorful display of this spring. 

California Goldfield and Stonecrop, Sedelle pumila (yellow), and Sky Lupine, Lupinus nanus (blue)  

The two most dominant colors there however where the backdrop colors - the dark basalt rocks and the intense winter green. This background made the perfect contrast for the wide carpets and patches of wildflower colors. 

The main yellow came from the tiny inflorescences of the California goldfield. Between the rocks and in the shallow depressions was another yellow bloom - the delicate stonecrop. 

Stonecrop, Sedelle pumila

Between the dominant flowers that made the unicolored patches hid many other wildflowers, in singles or in small groups. I tried finding as many as possible but only few made it here to this post. 

 Pretty Face, Triteleia ixiodes

There were also areas that were not dominated by any single species but a mix of several. Many were 'belly flowers'. The soil was muddy so I didn't go down to my belly for any of them. All of my photos were taken from above. 

Variable Linanthus, Leptosiphon parviflorus, and California Goldfield, Lasthenia californica

There is one trail that stretches along the creek that cuts through the meadow but people were meandering through the fields among the wildflowers. I remembered that last time we were there there was cattle on those fields. I was glad to see that the people were f`orly careful - not much seemed trampled. The exposed piles of basalt rocks helped - they made great stepping stones. 

The first meadow we walked through was also the highest. Water was oozing from the ground all over the place, muddying the soil and collecting into little puddles and tiny brooks, flooding the narrow trail. 

Wetter soil flowers bloom in theses flooded basins - the indian clover and the yellow monkeyflower made a wonderful purple-yellow color combination.  

Yellow Monkeyflower, Mimulus gutattus, and White-tipped Clover, Trifolium variegatum

It took a while but eventually we stopped meandering and started down the trail. It was already left in the afternoon and I knew we wouldn't get very far but I wanted to get at least to the first waterfall which wasn't far away. 

The trail followed the path of the creek and the creek banks were marked with beautiful white bouquets of snow-white meadowfoam. 

Snow-white Meadowfoam, Limnanthes douglasii ssp. nivea

While our progress remained slow, at least now we had direction. Even so I kept hopping from one side of the creek to the other to take a closer look at one flower or another. 

Tomcat Clover, Trifolium willdenovii

It was hard to remain focused on the trail with all the pretty wildflowers around. 

Bird's-eye Gilia, Gilia tricolor

The creek, which was almost level at the upper meadow was now flowing faster, dropping in places in little cascade falls. 

At the place where the trail remained above the mildly descending creek I had a nice view of the colorful slopes above the narrow glistening strip of water. 

No longer flat, the Table Mountain features were more apparent and impressive - the dark, dry basalt surrounded by stonecrop and goldfields, and then the wetter soil flowers, lupine, cryptantha, and the green grasses. Each plant species in its own patch of soil mix perfection. 

Color Patterns

Whether by soil, precipitation, or weather, only few trees were growing up at the top of the Table Mountain. Wind-beat they looked graceful and venerable. Nearly all of them were oaks. 

Other than flowers there were also lots of weeds. Non-native, invasive weeds. The monarch butterfly that fluttered by didn't seem to mind though.

Monarch Butterfly

My mother's friend drew my attention to a pink spot on the slope. A clump of owl's clover in between the sky lupine. These were the first owl's clover I've seen this season and I got very excited.

Sky Lupine, Lupinus nanus, and Owl's Clover, Castilleja exserta

As we progressed down the trail I saw large patches of that very same owl's clover on the dry basalt slopes. There were many of them all over the place.

We reached the top of the waterfall. The trail narrowed and became steeper. My mother and her friends decided to stay up but I moved a little further, trying to get a good view of the waterfall.

On my way I found out what those elongated buds I have seen near the rocks were. They were buds of clarkia. I found the first one that was open. All the rest of them were still maturing.

Kellogg's Clarkia, Clarkia arcuata

I also found another surprising wildflower there - one I didn't expect to see on such an exposed terrain. I usually see the woodland star in forests, but there it was - in full sunlight, under a mass of basalt rock.

Woodland Star, Lithophragma heterophyllum

I slowly paced down the trailand stopped at the corner of the first switchback. It was far enough to get a glimpse of the waterfall without getting too far away from my companions. There was more water falling there than the last time I was at that place, which was in April too.

Hollow Falls

 I didn't go all the way down. Turning around I walked back up to join my mother and friend. On the way I found another pretty face :-)

Lilac Pretty Face, Triteleia lilacina

And also other purple flowers that somehow I had missed on my way down.

Kellogg's Monkeyflower, Mimulus kelloggii

I rejoined my companions and we started back along the creek. There seemed to be fewer people now, but new ones were making their way down, crossing our path. I now focused less on finding new wildflower species and more on the beauty of the landscape.

It was getting late and the sun was hanging ow in the western sky, making the flowers shine and more difficult to photograph.

Well above the waterfall I resumed hopping back and forth both sides of the creek, trying to take it all in. I am well aware of how fleeting all this beauty is. A single heat wave can end it all. Even with no hear wave, this boom bloom will be over as spring turns into summer.

Allocarya, Plagiobothrys stipitatus, and White-tipped Clover, Trifolium variegatum

With the exception of the clarkia, nearly all the flowers I've seen there were at their peak bloom. I plan to return to this place in May but I doubt the display would be as vibrant. I hope it will still be spectacular though. Maybe other species will take over.

Tupftet Eschscholzia, Eschscholzia caespitosa , and Caterpillar Phacelia, Phacelia cicutaria

There were certainly fewer people in the reserve as we made our way back. At last I could take people-free photos of some nice creek nooks.

I aslo noticed some plants that might be part of the next wave of bloom. I'll check on this one next month.

California Pipevine

My companions were impressed by the bright green algae growing at the bottom of the creek. The water was very shallow and the algae glistened in the almost direct sunlight.

Algae at the bottom of the creek

There was a small grove of trees right at the place where the creek leveled off again. At the time we were going downstream there were many people sitting or walking between them but on our way back they were alone. The few people that were still there were, like us, making a slow progress up the trail.

Nearly all the trees we saw there were oaks but there were some willows, and they too were blooming. Willow bloom isn't a colorful display but is very delicate and pretty.

Red Willow, Salix laevigata

Slowly we came back to the top meadow. Now there were many spots available in the parking lot. Cars were pulling out and heading back toward Oroville. We were heading in the opposite direction toward Redding. I felt very fortunate for having the chance to see this wonderful super bloom at the North Table Mountain Reserve. I don't think my spring would have been complete without it. 

Many thanks to the members of the California Native Plants Society for the reports and the beautiful photos from the North Table Mountain Ecological Reserve, without which I probably would have not go there this year.
And many thanks to the members of the California Native Plants Society for all the help in identifying plants!