The Many Sides of the Big Salt Pond at the Don Edwards National Wildlife Refuge

Date: April 26, 2020
Place: Don Edwards National Wildlife Refuge, Fremont, CA
Address: 2 Marshlands Rd. Fremont
Length: 6.4 miles
Level: easy

Don Edwards NWR is one of the places we visit a lot to look for birds, and we always walk the same loop trail that goes through the wetland area, around the hill, and near the salt pond. One of the days last April my chika saw a post in a local birding group of red-necked phalaropes at the salt pond there. When I suggested going on a hike she insisted it would be to Don Edwards NWR to look for these birds. Being a weekday, Pappa Quail had to stay home and work, and the younger chika opted out. So me an my elder chika only, went down to the bay to hike at the Don Edwards NWR, and this time one a different trail than our usual.

Our hike as captured by my GPS

Vehicles were not allowed in the refuge at the time so we parked in the little parking area outside the gate and walked inside. We followed the paved road to the Kite Spur trial and took it around the hill to the big salt pond. I took a moment to look at the new wildflowers that popped along the trail since my last visit there. 

Ithuriel's Spear, Triteleia laxa 

I'm not writing much about that part of our hike because I've already posted about it recently. Still, I couldn't go by our official state flower as it adorned the hillside.

California Poppy, Eschscholzia california 

My chika too could not go by even the common and familiar birds without giving them due attention.

Snowy Egret

She had recently got a new camera and was checking out its abilities on any feathered being she saw.

Song Sparrow and Barn Swallow 

We curved around the south sode of the hill and below us spread the familiar view of the Newark Slough and th Newark Slough Trail, where we were headed.

The Newark Slough

Every time I visit this place I see a different bird population, and this time was no different :-) The southeastern shore of the big salt pond was teeming with shorebirds.

The salt pond, view south

My chika got to work immediately, zooming in on the birds. Nearly all of them in that corner were western sandpipers. They weren't bothered by us at all. They were so busy eating that they hardly noticed us.

Western Sandpiper, breeding plumage 

The birds were feasting, and I suspected I knew on what. Sure enough, when I approached the water I saw the brine shrimp. My of them, swimming near the surface of the murky water.

Brine Shrimp

My chika and I walked slowly north on the Newark Slough Trail, searching the pond for interesting birds. And "island" of birds aggregated off shore, too far for me to photograph, so I counted on my chika's photo.

And Island of Marbled Godwits 

Snappers were the most common bird species wading along the shoreline, but there were many other shorebirds as well. Nearly all of them were wearing their breeding plumage.

Dunlin, male, breeding plumage 

All these birds can swim but most chose not to. I guess it is easier to forage while walking or wading in the shallows. And the depth of the wading is determined by the length of the feet and the bill, as evolved to specialize in particular foods.

Willet 

One of the longer-legged shorebirds is the stilt, named so for its long, red legs. The stilt male and female share a sweet, mutual courtship behavior, as well as the responsibility of raising the chicks.

Black-necked Stilt

The "island" of marbled godwits suddenly took to the air. I don't know what provoked them (not us, we were too far away, and there were other people there going back and forth on that trail). The cloud of godwits moved in the air with exquisite coordination and swirled about for nearly a minute before settling back in the pond to form their "island" once again. Both me and the chika captured the motion. My wide view shot heads this blogpost. My chike got a close up clear enough to identify the birds.

Marbled Godwit

On our regular hikes at the Don Edwards NWR we would turn east at the north end of the salt pond, cross the Newark Slough on the wood bridge, and complete the loop trail by the visitor center. This time we were going around the big salt pond so we turned west and started walking on the packed dirt levee that contained the pond on its north side.

North of the levee were smaller, non industrial ponds and slat marsh areas covered with pickled. I could see the thin stripe of ST 84 and the few vehicles with essential workers moving on the road to and from the Dumbarton Bridge. North of the road bulged the round Coyote Hills that are the heart of Coyote Hills Regional Park.

View north to Coyote Hills 

The ponds closer to the trail were covered with light green algae, a.k.a. pond scum. In one of these there was a pair of mallards that didn't seem to be bothered by it.

Mallards and pond scum 

An old dredging barge which looks like it hasn't been used in years rests in a slough between the salt pond and the Bay. I see it each time I drive on the Dumbarton Bridge. This time we were coming near it following the trail as it curved south.

A dredger

As we progressed west toward the Bay, the salt pond became less populated with birds. Perhaps it was deeper there, or perhaps most of the brine shrimp concentrated near the east shore. Either way, there were only a few birds floating on the water neat the northwest corner of the pond. One of these birds however, was a Bonaparte's Gull, a single individual that remained there of the large flock that had overwintered there. I don't know why it stayed behind, and sadly, it was wearing its breeding plumed for nobody.

Bonaparte's Gull, breeding plumage 

My chika did an excellent job documenting each and every bird she saw, in the water or in the air. On the more sparsely populated side of the pond we could finally increase our gait and move faster along the trail.

Forster's Tern 

Eventually we came close enough to the dredger barge to see some more details. It was clear that it hasn't been in human use for a long while. That doesn't mean it was out of use altogether - a large nest was built near the barge's control cabin and a large bird was sitting there with its back to us. We stood there for sometime trying to guess what bird that might be until it finally got up to stand and revealed its identity as a great blue heron.

Great Blue Heron, nesting

We completed the curve and were now going southeast, and at a much faster pace.

There were even fewer birds on this side of the pond. We saw there another solitary bird of a usually social species - a ruddy duck in breeding plumage.

Ruddy Duck, male, breeding plumage 

The trail, which is on the salt pond's levee, became more distant from the slough. In between was an area of salt marsh and a few small ponds. Nearly all the plants there were pickledweed, one of the few plant species that can tolerate the high salinity of the Bay water.

The pickleweed (which BTW is edible), is a keystone species in the salt marsh habitat, supporting a number of wildlife species, and also the salt marsh dodder - a parasitic plant that pulls its vital energy directly from the pickleweed's phloem.

Salt Marsh Dodder, Cuscuta salina, on Pickleweed, Salicornia pacifica 

After a long brisk walk, during which we encountered very few people and saw only a few birds, we turned the southwest corner of the pond and started going east. The wind had picked up and whipped waves, as high as waves could get in the enclosed salt pond.

All the way ahead loomed the Coastal Ridge with Mission Peak directly in front of us. All that time my chika was searching the water fro more birds.

As we got closer to the southeastern side of the pond we were seeing more and more birds. The swimmers first, riding the open waves.

Eared Grebe, breeding plumage 

Among the swimmers, too far away to get a perfect photo but nonetheless a very exciting sighting - the red-necked phalaropes my chika was looking for. The phalaropes are unique in the avian world - it is a species in which the female is more colorful than the male.

Red-necked Phalarope, male, breeding plumage

More east and closer to the shore were numerous shorebirds - least sandpipers and American avocets.

The avocets look very pretty in breeding plumage.

American Avocet, breeding plumage 

And so do the least sandpipers, although they are generally more drab than the avocets. Perhaps being smaller, they are more concerned about drawing attention to themselves.

Least Sandpiper 

The south levee of the big salt pond doesn't meet the Newark Slough Trail but continues nearly all the way to Thornton Ave. Outside of the refuge. Then it turns north again for a short distance before curving back west where it meets the Newark Slough Trail again. At that point my choke started complaining that the hike was getting too long and that her feet were hurting. There was not much I could do about it other than promise her that we were close to the end.

View southwest to the Bay and the old south bay railroad bridge 

Just before turning west, the trail comes really close to the outside parking lot where we were parked. Should be an easy hop to close the loop hike, except for the slough in between. My chika was quite disappointed that we couldn't get to the car right then and there, and I had to decide whether to complete the loop or to take a split-off trail that would lead me to Thornton Ave, but about half a mile south of where we needed to go.

By the time we arrived at the east corner of the pond I decided to take the offshoot trail to Thornton Ave. From there we walked back that half a mile along the road, walking on the west bike lane (there's no sidewalk there), and trying to ignore the trash on the roadside and focus on the pretty sights instead.

We arrived home triumphant. My chika had seen her phalarope bird and I got a very nice hike and a good one on one time with my daughter, something I had very little of ever since the shelter in place begun. And once again, Don Edwards NWR had proved to be a true refuge, and not only for the birds. 

Mucho más que pescados - Hiking at Pescadero State Beach

Pescadero State Beach, September 24, 2016

Dates: July 19, September 9, and 24, October 1, and 8, 2016
Place: Pescadero State Beach, San Gregorio, California
Coordinates: 37.273638, -122.40866
Length: 3 miles
Level: easy

In my humble opinion, the best Bay Area region for fall hiking is the San Francisco Peninsula coast. Last summer I hiked at Pescadero State Beach for the first time, and the following fall I went back there a few more times, alone and with company. The park's trail system isn't extensive - there are only two trails off the beach. Each time I hiked the trail north of Pescadero Creek, first going on the fixed dunes east of Hwy 1, between the lagoons and along the creek, then going under the highway and completing the hike along the beach.

My hike on September 24, 2016, as captured by my GPS. The tide was lower than the map's waterfront ...

There is always something blooming along the coast, even in the end of summer. As could be expected, I've seen the most bloom on my first hike there, on July 19, and most of the wildflowers' photos posted here are from that date.
The first flowers I've seen right by the parking lot, where I lingered long enough to appreciate them.

Gumweed, Grindelia hirsutula, July 19, 2016

On my following visits to Pescadero State Beach I've seen less and less wildflowers, and more birds, according to the seasons' turn.

Beach Evening Primrose, Camissoniopsis cheiranthifolia, October 1, 2016

The trail begins on the east side of Hwy 1, and that road crossing is the most dangerous part of the hike, because the cars come careening at top speed downhill from the north and speeding up after a big curve from the south, and finding a wide enough gap between them for a pedestrian to cross safely could be a challenge, especially on nice weekends. 

At the trail's beginning: Century sp., July 19, 2016

The first 1/2 mile the trail is narrow and goes through thick vegetation that varies from knee- to neck-height. There is a wide variety of plant species there, many of which are non-native, but there were also many native California plants holding good grounds along the trail.

Pacific Aster, Symphyotrichum chilense, September 24, 2016 

Of the non-native species the most prominent grass was the pampas grass, an invasive weed brought from South America for landscaping and took over many areas along the Pacific Coast. It is very pretty, no argue there, but it doesn't belong here.

Pampas Grass, Cortaderia jubata. Invasive, non-native. September 9, 2016

Another dominant plant there, and very much a California native, is the coyote brush. And it was in bloom still in the fall.

Coyote Brush, Baccharis pilularis, September 9, 2016

The aster family is always well represented in nearly every place, but their blossom seems to be especially dominant during fall time, when most other plants have already gone to seeds.

Pearly Everlasting, Anaphalis margaritacea, July 19, 2016

Some of the wildflowers bloom pretty close to the ground and required me to stoop low to appreciate them.

California Broomrape, Orobanche californien, July 19, 2016

My July hike was very slow not inly because of the many wildflowers I was giving attention too, but mostly because of poison oak that overgrew into the trail. Fortunately the park's authorities cleared most of the path before I returned there in September. Unfortunately I did get in contact with fresh poison oak sap, causing my arms skin to break out in ugly blisters that took over 2 months to heal.

Poison Oak, Toxicodendron diversilobum, September 9, 2016

The trail ascends the hill a bit to avoid the wetland and lagoon below. The north lagoon, well seen even from the road, is home for ducks and herons, and looks very pretty when reflecting the bright blue sky.

September 24, 2016

One of the common invasive weeds along that path was an old world species of thistle. While some of the thistle was still in bloom, most of them had already spread their seeds, and in abundance. Some of the thistle seeds were trapped on tarweed plants, effectively coating them with their fluffy parachutes.

September 9, 2016

The tarweed, as its name suggests, secretes sticky resin from its leaves and stem that is unpleasant to touch and therefore, an effective bug deterrent. Extending over the sticky green parks are the plant's inflorescences that are safe for insects to pollinate (and eat, as the maggot in the photo does).

Grassy Tarweed, Madia gracilis, September 9, 2016

On some of my hikes at Pescadero I kept running into spider webs that stretched across the trail. That indicated to me that I was the first one on the trail that day. With apology, I would remove the web, sending the spider running down the threads into the safety of the bushes.

September 9, 2016

After about half a mile the trail reached a view point over a second wetland and lagoon area. It was also a very good spot to take a short break and observe the birds below.

July 19, 2016

The trail continued west, down from the observation deck and onto a light metal bridge across a wide slough. On the other side of the slough the trail changes its character completely - I was now walking on sand dunes that were bolted down by low and spread sand vegetation. It was tempting to remove my shoes and walk barefoot but I resisted the temptation, saving my feet for later at the beach.

October 1, 2016

The most common sand plant there was an invasive weed from South Africa - the ice plant. The widespread ice plant forms almost pure mono cultures in areas where it is established, effectively eliminating local species. I was glad to see that the sand dunes at Pescadero were not completely taken by the ice plant. Perhaps there are removal efforts there.

Wight's Indian Paintbrush, Castilleja wightii, September 9, 2016

One of the tougher California native plants that gives a good fight to the ice plant is the coast buckwheat. There were many of them growing on the dunes and they bloomed nicely from July through September.

Coast Buckwheat, Eriogonum latifolium. September 9, 2016

Another sand beauty that I've seen blooming from July through September was the coastal bush lupine. It wasn't covered with blossom, just a few flowering branches extending rom the shrub here and there. Most of the reproductive branches of these plants were already bearing pods.

Coastal Bush Lupine, Lupinus arboreus, September 24, 2016

Walking in sand can be a slow business. Especially on a beautiful day and many flowers still in bloom. I saw more yellow along the trail in the form of the seaside golden yarrow, another member of the aster family.

Seaside Golden Yarrow, Eriophyllum staechadifolium, July 19, 2016

Not looking much like an aster, but still in that family is the beach sagewort, it's tiny blossom peeking through the plant's thick fur.

Beach Sagewort, Artemisia pycnocephala, July 19, 2016

Farther down the trail I stopped and looked back at the slough and the metal bridge. Enjoying abundant brackish water the wetland plants looked healthy and green. The red carpet is the invasive ice plant.

July 19, 2016

A great blue heron is a permanent resident at that slough and the adjacent wetland where Pappa Quail photographed it on the day he joined my hike there.

October 8, 2016

About a mile into the hike there is another bridge over the slough. This bridge is low and made of wood so old that some of my companions expressed some concerns regarding its integrity. It did bear us all, however. On the south side of the bridge the trail split in two ways - one going westward to the main Pescadero Creek lagoon and the other going eastward along Pescadero Creek. Nit wanting to make my hike too short I took the eastern trail to the creek.
Once again the terrain changed and I was walking now on packed dirt and flanked by the dead and dry stems of fennel and thistle. The fennel seeds are very tasty, and while for humans they are a spice, these seeds are a staple to the little bush birds that make their home in this park.

Lesser Goldfinch, females. September 9, 2016

A green, and still blooming plant by this part of the trail got me very excited - it was a milkvetch shrub, and later I found that it is also a fairly rare species of milkvetch too. I was very happy to see it bloom.

Marsh Milkvetch, Astragalus pycnostachyus, September 9, 2016

The milkvetch plant also provided a little encounter with a little wildlife -a pretty heteropterous bug, small and brown like a piece of a dead leaf that landed randomly on the milkvetch.

September 9, 2016

further down the trail and up the creek there is a single eucalyptus tree, separate from the main eucalyptus forest on the hill, and apparently much, much older. Being alone with no competition for light it doesn't reach high but is low and wide-canopied with thick branches winding horizontally away from the main trunk.
I don't normally think of eucalyptus as good trees for climbing but this individual is just perfect for the job. On those hikes I was with families the children made the best of this lovely natural play structure.

Eucalyptus, July 19, 2016

I continued along Pescadero Creek trail until I found an access to the water. There is no convenient beach at that place and the access to the water is jammed with fallen logs and other debris. It is a very nice view point on the creek, nonetheless.

July 19, 2016

On my July hike I found the creek level to be quite low. On that day I was there with one companion only, and we were quiet enough no to scare away the doe that was exploring the exposed creek bed. She did eventually notice us and walked elegantly away into the bank's vegetation.

Black-tailed Deer, July 19, 2016

The trail continues a little further east beyond the water access point, and on two of my hikes (the first and the last) I followed it to the end to see what I could find.
Going on that trail segment in July was somewhat challenging because the trail was overgrown with vegetation. Willows mostly, but many other things as well. Luckily not that much poison oak.

July 19, 2016

One of the interesting plants I saw on that trail segment was the sneezeweed with its weird, button-looking inflorescence.

Sneezeweed, Helenium pberulum, July 19, 2016

I didn't bring the groups I hiked with later on that trail segment, except for the 4H Hiking Project on my last hike there on October 8. The trail looked very different then - all cleared and easy to walk on. There was no bloom there that time, and only dry foliage left of the sneezeweed plants.

October 8, 2016

The trail continues a few more yards up the hill and then comes to an abrupt stop with a sign that shows graffiti only and a broken bench. Ahead there is a thick chaparral and no open view.

July 19, 2016

Turning to face back north, however, there is a wonderful view from that point on the wetlands below and the eucalyptus forest flanking on the east.

July 19, 2016

Any encounter with wild animals on the trail is an excitement. Particularly animals that are shy and avoid people as a rule. There is always a better chance of seeing wildlife when hiking alone or in company that is small and quiet.

Cottontail Rabbit, July 19, 2016

Later in the fall I had the chance to see the alkali heath in bloom. Not much, but delicate and pretty. This plant does well in high salinity lands and is common in California salt marshes.

Alkali Heath, Frankenia salina, October 1, 2016

I was making my way back to the cross trails. Lizards like to sun on the open trail and by my last hikes I were expecting to see them there. they would wait for me to approach, then dart quickly to cover, posing for a moment by the edge of the vegetation and turning back to look at me.

Side-bloched Lizard, September 9, 2016

When I reached the cross trails again I turned left to the big lagoon maid by Pescadero Creek. This lagoon is formed by a sand bar that blocks the creek from flowing above ground all the way to the ocean. Most of the time. The bridge across the creek is that of Hwy 1.

Pescadero Lagoon, July 19, 2016

The shore of the lagoon was strewn with driftwood, of which park visitors have used to built shacks, rafts, and all kinds of weird structures, at least some of which were built by youngsters attending a summer camp there in July. In between and behind the driftwood there grew a belt of beach grass that I did not identify.

September 9, 2016

Hidden between the grass bunches were low cushions of beach bur - its delicate inflorescences hanging shyly like fairy chandeliers.

Beach Bur, Ambrosia chamissonis, July 19, 2016

Large pieces of driftwood were anchored in the lagoon itself and their protruding bare branches were a perfect seat for cormorants.

Double-crested Cormorant taking off, September 9, 2016

On my July hike with my friend we continued a bit up the creek right along the wait line, and around the creek bend we saw a sandbar occupied by a cotillion of caspian terns.

Caspian Tern, July 19, 2016

We didn't approach very close but the terns took to the air nonetheless.

Caspian Tern, July 19, 2016

We turned about and returned to the lagoon.
The Pescadero Lagoon was the perfect location to stop with the family hiking groups because there the children (and adults) could get into the water in safety. Exploring the beach as only children can, they came upon a sole sand hopper that had strayed to far from the source of moisture.

October 1, 2016

One of the parents in that group called my attention to the circular ripples diffracting around a small piece of driftwood - a pleasing sight to any physics lover.

October 1, 2016

Quite a few birds had claimed this lagoon as their haunting grounds. There were cormorants, mergansers and ducks. I was happy to see serf scotters there too.

Surf Scoter, male. July 19, 2016

As summer turned into fall I could see more and more birds in the lagoon and on the beach. Papa Quail had joined my last hike there with the Redwood 4H Hiking Project, and he was putting his high zoom camera into an excellent use.

Least Sandpiper, October 8, 2016

From the lagoon we were making a slow progress (it was hard to leave the place!) towards the ocean, passing underneath the bridge. The sandpipers and other shorebirds that were pecking at the mud would fly a short distance, then settle themselves back onto the sand, pecking enthusiastically in the shallow water.

Killdeer, October 8, 2016

A low ridge or rock cliffs stretches along the south band of the Pescadero Creek and a pretty little arch at the cliff's edge makes a nice window through which the waves show, and often flow through. On my first hike there the creek flowed directly into the ocean. The stream was very shallow but I was already tight in time so I remained on the north bank and didn't go near to the arch.

July 19, 2016

On all my other hikes there the sandbar had effectively blocked the creek flow and I could walk right up to the arch. It is tall just enough for the children to stand there upright. They did, however, run back quickly when the waves lapped at their feet through the rocky passage.

September 9, 2016

It's a short stretch of beach from the mouth of Pescadero Creek to the north parking lot, but walking this short distance took almost as much time as the the hiking trail. There was the ocean, of course, and the amazing buffet of wonders it offers to nature-loving visitors.

October 1, 2016

The off-shore rocks near the arch were full of shore birds, and Pappa Quail lingered there for quite a while.  The most common of those shorebirds were the black turnstone, and they were the least disturbed by the close proximity of humans.

Black Turnstone

Near the black turnstone were its close relatives the ruddy turnstone, searching and digging in the mud.

Ruddy Turnstone

I have seen the black turnstone on each of my visits there. On my first visit, however, I also photographed another bird on that rock, that Pappa Quail had later identified as a wandering tattler - a pretty nifty sighting. The wandering tattler was no longer there when Pappa Quail came along.

Wandering Tattler, July 19, 2016

A mat of sleeping harbor seals covered one of the farther off shore rocks. Twice I could also see seal heads bobbing up and down with the waves.

Harbor Seals, October 8, 2016

The most common birds on the beach were gulls. Specifically Heermann's and western gulls. The Heermann's gulls were busy digging the mud like any sanderling.

September 9, 2016

The gulls also weren't concerned much with the people walking up and down the beach, but the much more skittish terns took to the air right away, and the gulls that were near them got excited too and joined them (header photo).

Heermann's Gull, October 8, 2016

The western gulls were interested in slightly bigger morsels. Many broken shells of large dungeness crabs littered the beach and we've seen the western gulls feeding on some.

Western Gull, July 19, 2016

And for the first time I've seen one of these crabs alive and out in the open. It did dig itself into the sand very quickly as we approached to look at it.

Dungeness Crab, October 8, 2016

Stranded kelp is a common fall time sight on California beaches, and Pescadero Beach had all of their species represented on the sand.

Sea Palm Kelp, September 9, 2016

Little sanderlings running in and out of the ocean's strand line is a common sight on many a California beach, and it never ceases to amuse and mesmerize me. These small shorebirds are perfectly coordinated with the waves and with each other. I could watch them run with the waves for a very long time. They are very pretty too. 

Sanderling, September 9, 2016

All along the beach there were these funny driftwood structures. Some were quite elaborate. I've seen people camping inside some of them, and some of my companions have explored inside these structures. Not trusting the integrity of these, I dared not go in any of them. 

September 9, 2016

All good things must come to an end, and as slow as the beach walk was, eventually we got back to the parking lot. When I found the tie after the hike I would bring my lunch out and have a slow picnic on the sand, staring at the breaking waves until my mind was cleared and my spirit was calm.

September 9, 2016