From High Disappointment to Low Elation: Finally, Sheep!

Date: December 30, 2012
Place: Dead Indian Canyon, Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountain National Monument, Palm Desert, California
Coordinates: 33.66804, -116.40830
Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Involves considerable rock scrambling in the narrow part of the canyon.

Our day started with much excitement and anticipation. This day would be the height of our winter vacation: hiking in San Jacinto State Park.
At last we unpacked the special bag where we kept our snow gear and dressed for real winter. We made it to the tram early enough and managed to take the third one up. The tram ride is not cheap but is definitely spectacular. For residents of the area it is a short-cut to snow and fun winter activities.
Indeed, this was the scenery that awaited us at the top:

Fresh snow on San Jacinto

The temperature was in the low 20's. Me and the chikas go every year to experience the snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains so we are quite accustomed to winter conditions. And at first, the chikas were excited to play in the snow.
They were much less excited to go hiking in the snow and started complaining almost immediately. The walk was not easy and the chikas kept dragging behind. I tried all kinds of prompts and even cookie bribery but to no avail. We planned a 4-miles loom. I don't think we made it far beyond even 1 mile before their complaints killed all of my excitement. Also, the weather took a turn for the worse. Clouds came in and it started snowing. The temperature dropped and despite the snow boots and the double wool socks our toes begun to freeze.

Winter in action on Mount San Jacinto

We turned back. My hopes for an exciting adventurous hike were crushed. The chikas were miserable and I was in a very foul mood, and all of the morning's good spirit was gone. We took the tram down, having spent less than 3 hours in the heights of the mountain.

A Steller's Jay braving the weather

It was Papa Quail who saved the day. After preparing a glum lunch at the hotel room he suggested we go back to Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument and hike the Dead Indian Canyon, were other hikers have seen the Bighorn sheep the day before.
I wasn't very hopeful regarding the sheep, but hiking was a far better idea than to sit in the hotel and mop for the rest of the day. So there we went, back to Palm Desert.

We checked in briefly at the visitor center and heard that there were no new reports of Bighorn Sheep that morning. Regardless, we proceeded to the trailhead and started walking. The first part of the trail is where the old Art Smith trail used to be before the Carrizo Canyon Ecological Preserve was closed off for 9 months of the year. The Art Smith Trail begins now in the north side of the canyon. We walked along the south side.

The entrance to Dead Indian Canyon. The green bushes are Tamarisk.

At first we walked easily on soft sand. A large sandbar stretches along the current water track. It is interesting to see the hard-packed sand: that's sandstone in process. I made a mental note to return there in a million years and see it rock :-) 

Packed sandbar

The easy walk was soon over. Dry waterfalls and large boulders comprised the rest of our ascend. The chikas loved it. Fun rock climbing was everything they needed to forget their morning blues. I needed a bit more still and was walking steadily onward, rarely stopping to take photos. A hiker we met that was just leaving the canyon told us he saw some sheep by the oasis. This was enough to light a fire under my feet. I hurried my family and rushed forward. I could see the oasis ahead - the very same palms we saw from the Randall Henderson Trail on the day before.

Dead Indian Canyon Oasis

It was there that I thought I saw something moving on the rocks to the left. I pulled my binoculars up and ...

YES!!!!!!

OH, YES!!!!!

Finally! Our wish to view Bighorn sheep in nature was fulfilled, and the quest that begun a week before in Anza Borrego State Park has succeeded. All of that morning's woes were gone from my mind as well. The day has turned out to be climatic after all :-)
It was a nice herd. We counted two rams and five ewes, one of which wore a numbered collar. Two days later the entire area would be closed to people to allow these magnificent animals to breed unhindered.

I was floating with elation all the way back. The chikas played 'Bighorn sheep', bleating and jumping on the rocks. I finally was able to appreciate the beautiful desert rocks once more.

Before reaching the parking lot I stopped to pay closer attention to the vegetation at the canyon mouth.
What I saw was a large area where trees have been cut down and removed. Normally this kind of sight would have made me sad. However, these trees are Tamarisk - an invasive species in the US and a very aggressive one too. It thrives in arid climates and high salinity soils. The scenery I witnessed was no doubt an effort to remove the Tamarisk for the benefit of the native plants in the area. Tamarisk, however, is very difficult to eradicate and there were quite a few that bounced right back.

This was our last day in the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument until next time, which I don't know when it'll be. Soon, I hope! After all, there's that mountain there that I didn't get to hike properly yet :-)

The phantom sheep of Borrego Palm Canyon

Dates: December 24 and 26, 2012
Place: Borrego Palm Canyon, Anza Borrego State Park, Borrego Springs, California
Coordinates: 33.26905, -116.41842
Length - about 2.5 miles round trip.
Difficulty: main trail - easy. Alternative trail - moderate.

A two-weeks long winter break from school gave us a great opportunity to travel to an area of California we've never been to before - the deserts of southern California. For 10 intensive days we hiked trails in Anza Borrego State Park, Salton Sea, San Jacinto and Santa Rosa National Monument and other preserves in that region. We saw great views, met interesting wild animals and plants, many of which where new to us, and took many photographs. We even made new friends in the most unexpected of places!
We returned home exhausted, but resolved to go back and explore more of California's wonderful deserts.

A double rainbow on the road from Julian to Anza Borrego

Our first destination was Anza Borrego State Park. We arrived there on the morning of December 24, and chanced to enter the park's visitor center just as they were about to show a 20 minute documentary about the park. I was eager to start hiking but the chikas along with Papa Quail were inside the auditorium before I could say 'Jack rabbit', so I went inside and sat to watch too.
It was there that we learned that Anza Borrego is the home of 2/3 of the population of bighorn sheep in California, and that it was on the Borrego Palm Canyon trail - just outside the visitor center - where most sightings occur. Naturally, this trail was to be our first hike. The trailhead is actually in the nearby campground. We parked in the day-use lot and headed into the canyon. 

 The mouth of Borrego Palm Canyon

It was almost immediately that we spotted the most exciting bird of the Southwest - the much celebrated roadrunner.

Roadrunner on a rock

It didn't run, just walked here and there, not bothered by anything or anyone, looking for food.
Anza Borrego is famous for its spectacle of spring flowers. At the time we were there, we didn't expect to see anything flowering. So I was much surprised to see some flowers here and there.

A bee visiting a desert lavender. 

Well, something's got to keep all the bees and hummingbirds alive until spring, right?

Most plants were not in bloom, of course. 

Brittle bush

The most common tree there is the cat-claw Acacia, named so after its hook-shaped thorns.

It is a small tree with thin leaves and scant shade. Enough shade though, for a tired chika to rest in.

Many of the Acacia trees we saw were infested with mistletoe - a parasite plant that lives off the sap of its host. 

After about a mile of walking on the dry sand of the wash bed and some minor rock-scrambling we saw our destination - an oasis - in the form of a tight group of fan palms nestled in the narrow, upper part of the wash. Fan (Washingtonia) palms require plenty of fresh water to survive. Their presence, therefore, indicates the presence of water, either openly or not too deep underground.

Borrego Palm Canyon oasis

Below the palms we met open, running water. The chikas enjoyed playing in the water, pulling long strands of algae and skipping on rocks.

Meanwhile I spent time observing the nearby vegetation, which included some unexpected species such as this cattail:

Cattail in the desert

We encountered many people on their way back, and all talked excitedly about seeing a ram above the oasis. We hurried along but were too late. No ram for us. But we did meet another family from the bay area and the chikas immediately connected with their children and before long all five of them were playing hide and seek among the palms and the boulders.

A perfect set for a game of hide-n-seek.

The other family were camping in the campground where we started and tried talking us into joining them, but we had already hotel reservation for that night. After some difficulty in breaking the children's game we left the oasis and headed back to the parking lot. We didn't see the ram, nor any other sheep all the way back.
We had an afternoon picnic by the trailhead, and as we were wrapping up, our new friends made their way back from the oasis. They had taken the alternative trail and yes, they did see the ram ...

Costa's hummingbird, female

Costa's hummingbird, male

December 26
We had our camping gear with us just in case. So after spending the night of December 24 at the hotel in Julian we decided to join our new friends for one night of camping for the next night. The human connection was the major determinant of course, but there was also the hope that if we could make it on the trail at first light we might be able to see some bighorn sheep. So at the crack of dawn we hurried the grumbling chikas out of their sleeping bags and headed into Borrego Palm Canyon once more - this time taking the alternative trail.

Sunrise at Borrego Palm Canyon

We got a bit confused at the beginning of the trail because it leads into an amphitheater and then disappears. We scrambled a bit between the rocks and Cholla cacti until we picked up the trail once more. The still dark canyon provided us with yet another pretty rainbow.

The alternative trail climbs on the canyon side and the chikas, who expected an easy walk 'to the bridge over the water' were grumpy and whined constantly.

We didn't see any sheep. Just awesome desert landscape. The early morning light really brings out the beautiful reddish hue of the rocks.

Not being covered with vegetation, the intricate and magnificent rock formations are laid naked to the eye (and the camera).

We arrived at the bridge without seeing any sheep. So we sat down and waited for them. The chikas, in compensation for the early rise, were treated to what is usually a big no-no in our home - a cookies breakfast.
We waited for a while. Then
gave up waiting and headed back on the main trail. Near the parking lot we met another hiker who informed us that he spotted a ram earlier that morning on the eastern slopes.
"They usually hang out by the golf course," he added. "Why don't you look for them there?"
Well, I didn't come all the way to the wilderness to see sheep grazing on a man-made lawn. That I can see in the bay area pastures.

We did not see any sheep that day. But we did see this little feller:

Black-breasted sparrow.