Here I'll be sharing my trail experiences. By myself or with Papa Quail and the chikas, or with friends. Mostly in California, the East Bay in particular, and sometimes in other states. I am loving the Earth through my feet and I'm telling the world about it!
Showing posts with label Mount Tamalpais State Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mount Tamalpais State Park. Show all posts
Date: October 6 and October 22, 2016, 2017
Place: Mount Tamalpais State Park, Stinson Beach, California
Coordinates: 37.897845, -122.637123
Length: 7 miles
Level: strenuous
This loop - the Dipsea/Steep Ravine/Matt Davies Trails, I hiked with Pappa Quail way back when before we became parents. Since then I came back to that area many times but only to hike the Matter Davies Trail which makes half of that loop (the downhill half :-) ) from the Pantoll Station to Stinson Beach. When my hiking group asked for a more challenging trail than those I normally take them to I thought it might be a good chance to do the complete loop again. Nearly all the photos here I took on my earlier solo hike, with a few added from the later group hike, including the bird photos taken by Pappa Quail on that day.
Our hike as captured by Pappa Quail's GPS
Because there's nothing better than finishing a good hike on the beach, that was also my starting point. I parked at the beach parking lot, then took the small connector trail to the Dipsea Trail trailhead. This connecting trail wasn't easy to find because there are many 'unofficial' trails that lead into the bush thicket and disappear there.
This trail leads from Stinson Beach to the Pantoll Road some distance above the intersection with Hwy 1. Across the road, almost hidden in the brush, is the Dipsea trailhead.
For a short distance the trail climbed through a grove of gnarly and twisted oaks.
I was duly impressed with the lacy look of the twisted canopy. It reminded me of the pygmy oaks of Los Osos Elfin Forest.
Two weeks later Pappa Quail saw a chickadee in the trees there.
Chestnut-backed Chickadee
Coming out of the oak grove the trail cuts through thigh-high chaparral. Many poison oak bushes grinned at me from the trail side, sporting their shiny red fall foliage, but the trail was wide enough to pass without touching any.
Dipsea Trail
But the reddish leaves of poison oak were not the only red color I saw there. Further off the trail there were two bright red Indian paintbrush plants.
I didn't expect to see much bloom so late in the season, but there was some. In the chaparral were also some monkeyflower blossoms.
Sticky Monkeyflower, Mimulus aurantiacus
Little sparrows chirped as they flew in and out of the bushes, occasionally pausing atop one or another. I wasn't successful in photographing any but Pappa Quail was.
Yellow-crowned Sparrow
I kept a slow and steady ascend. There trail there has a very mild slope and only when at some point I turned around to look back I realized how much altitude I had gained. Stinson Beach was way down below.
Stinson Beach
After about a mile of mild slope on the Dipsea Trail I turned left onto the Steep Ravine. This trail follows a deep and fully forested, well shaded gorge. Although late in October following yet another drought year, the creek was still running a low stream. At the bottom the water collected into a small, dark pond.
Steep Ravine Trail
The pond was very calm and quiet, without any apparent flow or ripples of water life. The dark bottom and calm surface turned in into a perfect mirror.
The Steep Ravine Trail is true to its name. Soon after making the turn the trail started climbing at a much steeper grade, including staircases of wood and dirt.
I was surprised at the number of fallen trees that barred the trail. Clearly they were lying there for some time and not recently fallen. In most cases I could hop over or limbo my way under them, not having to circumvent around them on the slope.
As I climbed higher I left the oaks behind me, below. The forest was now mainly of conifers: fir and redwood.
Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens
Whenever the earth under the forest was exposed it revealed the hard graywacke rock that dominates this side of the mountain. The creek curved beautiful cascades and little waterfalls in the stone and was trickling lazily down, collecting itself in little waterholes before continuing on with gravity.
The pecking of woodpeckers was a common sound around as I was making my way up the trail. I didn't get to see more than a fleeting glimpse of the bird as it flew from one tree to another. Pappa Quail has more patience than me apparently, and on our later hike he caught one of them on camera.
Nuttal's Woodpecker
I was pushing hard uphill and by the time I arrived at the Pantoll Station I was drenched with sweat. I didn't hang there very long a sip of water, a look around, and off I was again, crossing the Pantoll Road to the Matt Davies Trail on my way downhill back to Stinson Beach.
The view form the top of the Matt Davies Trail
Going down the Matt Davies Trail is a favorite hike of mine. I've hiked it many times in the past and even posted about it in this blog. Each hike, however, is a different experience. Different time of year, different sights and smells. Different wildlife encounters.
Wild Turkey
And different excitements :-)
California Racer Snake
At first the trail grouse through the forest. Conifers, mainly, with laurel trees lining the creek gulches. About a mile down I exited the forest into open grassland lined with cypress trees. The trail leveled and my chest expanded with joy.
The dark cypress trees are a perfect cover for birds. But then again, those who search for birds eventually finds them :-)
Downy Woodpecker
I love the sense of openness and expanse when I'm out in the open high up a mountain. The air certainly smells sweeter.
I was amazed to see that it was the western slop of the mountain that was so lightly forested. I wonder if the soil there doesn't hold water as well.
On the day of my solo hike Mount Tam was bathing in bright sunlight but San Francisco was deep in fog. On my second hike however, light clouds spread across the sky all around and San Francisco was visible on the south.
San Francisco
Back on my sunny solo hike I was actually grateful to get back in the shade whenever the trail came under some trees.
Eventually the trail became considerably steeper and I was skipping down narrow flights of stairs trying not to lose my balance in my rapid descent. The surroundings changed too - I was back inside the forest, this time with oaks and laurels. The forest floor was carpeted with fern.
When I reemerged from the forest I was almost at the foot of the mountain. At that point I was worried about getting back home in time to pick up my chikas from school so I didn't stop anymore to take photo. Not many, anyway.
Just before coming into town again I had to stop and look at the trees again because that entire bit of forest was completely covered with English ivy. That menace of a vine, brought hither from the old country to cover houses and make them look like Europe and quickly found its way to the wild and is busy changing the California landscape, and rapidly. And the sad thing is that this plant is still propagated on purpose and commonly planted in gardens and yards. Once established, there's no getting rid of it. I know, I am losing the battle with those in my own yard.
English Ivy, Header helix. Non-native, invasive.
I made it back into Stinson Beach right behind the fire station and zoomed through town to get to my car at the beach's parking lot. As much as I wanted to stay by the ocean, it would have had to wait until my group hike there two weeks later. Because there's nothing better after a good hike than to sit at the beach and relax by the sound of the waves (and to wave the arms wildly at the gulls that try to raid my backpack).
Date: March 8, 2016
Place: Panoramic, Lost, Fern Creek, Redwood Creek, and Ocean View Trails. Mt. Tamalpais State Park, Mill Valley, California
Coordinates: 37.908512, -122.576210
Length: 4.3 miles
Level: Moderate
I have quite a few unpublished posts waiting in the pipeline, but this hike had jumped the queue. It had too. Please, do click on the images for a larger view.
This spring I'll be leading the Redwood 4-H Camping Project to Mt Tamalpais State Park. Naturally, I wished to take a look at the campground we'll be staying at, up near Mill Valley. The campground access road is gated off, making a perfect excuse (like I needed any) to take a hike all the way down.
I parked my car near the trailhead and was rewarded before even taking the first step on the trail. I heard an unmistakable sound - the fast, loud series of woodpecker knocks. Across the road, atop a high voltage powerline pole perched a pileated woodpecker! This prized bird was busy knocking away, occasionally taking a break to inspect its surroundings.
A couple of locals who passed by informed me tat he has been hanging around in their neighborhood for some time now, making himself heard.
Pileated Woodpecker
I lingered there for a while, watching that woodpecker pecking away but eventually I had to start my hike. I hoisted my backpack and stepped off the road and down the Panoramic Trail.
My hike down Panoramic, Lost Trail, Fern Creek, Redwood Creek and Ocean View trails loop. Labeled yellow.
The short segment of the Panoramic Trail I hiked on is beautifully decorated with a myriad of flowering shrubs, nearly all home garden runaways. A low-pitch buzz alerted me and I turned to see a hummingbird zooming across the trail and hovering about nearby. Happily, I raised my camera, but the bird flew behind the bush. Papa Quail probably would have waited for it to show itself but I lowered the camera and moved on. I guess I'm not a very good birder.
I turned right on Lost Trail (I don't know why it's called that way, it is labeled quite clearly). the trail drops steeply down the hill with flights of stairs in sections. Before going down I took a quick shot of the scenery: the lovely forest I was about to go into.
View Northwest
It was a gorgeous morning. Clear, sunny, and the air was fresh after the latest rains. I was breathing it all in and my chest swelled with pleasure.
The trail goes through an small area of open grassland before entering the woods. That area was filled with bloom, mostly of this flower:
Star Zigadene (Toxicoscordion fremontii)
The bloom didn't go away under the trees. The forest floor was dotted with color. Soon I run into a familiar ephemeral bloomer - the hound's tongue. These flowers start blue and change to pink after getting pollinated, informing their pollinators that they shouldn't waste their time and energy on flowers that were done.
Grand Hound's Tongue (Cynoglossum grande)
All the ephemerals were up - the milkmaids, hound's tongue, Indian warrior. They also were all over the peak, fruiting, slowly yielding the scene for the next wave of bloom.
Indian Warrior (Pedicularis densiflora)
The next wave of bloom was marked for me by the irises I saw along the trail. Not many, but always strikingly beautiful.
Bowltube Iris (Iris macrosiphon)
Shortly after entering the woods the trail takes a steep dive down the slope. Just before that I got a fantastic view of what lies ahead: a grove of redwoods apparent through a tunnel of arching laurel trees.
The forest of Mt. Tam is widely known for its majestic redwood. The bigger trees are down by Redwood Creek, the lower part of which is within the Muir Woods National Monument. On higher elevations the redwoods are thinner, and share the slopes with laurel, oak and fir. The smell of this forest, by the way, is intoxicatingly good. Particularly wen wet.
Going down to the ravine
More forest wildflowers along the trail. I figured fairly early on that this is going to be a slow hike, as I kept stopping to check out the flowers.
False Lily of the Valley (Maianthemum dilatatum)
And not just the flowers. A turned over leaf showed an intensely deep purple underside.
But the biggest treat was still a few steps ahead.
I turned right to Fern Creek Trail and continued downhill. The forest was very lively, even noisy. Calls of jays and woodpeckers, whirling wind in the canopies, and the loudest of all - the constant hum of running water. From every direction. The veins of the forest were pumped full of life-bearing water and that sound was the most joyous of all.
Coming to a sharp curve of the trail there was a small tributary gashing down hill. Very pretty stream. My focus, however, was on the creek side where I saw blooming trillium: a sight I haven't seen in quite a while, having been missing its short blooming season in the past few springs.
Pacific Trillium (Trillium ovatum)
Trillium is a beautiful and unique flower of the pacific northwest. It thrives in wet woodlands and I often see its trio of leaves on my forest hikes. Somehow, though, I had managed to miss its bloom. Well, on this Mt. Tam hike I was compensating big time.
Pacific Trillium (Trillium ovatum)
And yes, the creek was pretty too.
After detaching myself from the patch of trillium I crossed the tributary and continued down the trail. I saw more species of wildflowers, now that I was deeper in redwood territory.
Anemone oregana (Oregon Anemone)
I made it down all the way to Fern Creek, which was running high. A narrow metal walkway leads the way to the water and the creek is transversed across a flattened log lain over the stream.
Fern Creek
A couple of hikes were down by the creek and moved sideways to allow me to pass. One of them grinned when she saw me switch lenses for a better view of the water.
Fern Creek
Its an uphill walk from Fern Creek to East Alice Campground. I took it with a stride and my stride came to screeching halt when I run into an unexpected obstacle: an unfortunate redwood had fallen on the trail
People before me had already trampled makeshift paths below and over the fallen log. I climbed gingerly on top of the log and peered over to the disaster area.
The redwood tree, not hugely big but decent size still, succumbed to the rain and mud and came crashing down, breaking other trees where it fell. Broken branches and torn pieces of bark littered the entire area and the air was filled with the odor of an injured tree.
I climbed down on the other side, wary about the possibility of other trees falling whilst I was there.
On the other side - more trillium. I immediately forgot all about the falling tree dangers.
The trillium comes in white, purple and variegated. I saw all types there.
Pacific Trillium (Trillium ovatum)
Next to the trillium were other redwood forest flowers, such as this delicate violet.
Redwood Violet (Viola sempervirens)
I resumed my hike and soon came across more fallen trees. One of them tore a big hole in the trail. It seems that particular slope was hit hard by the recent storm.
Other trees caught my attention. Most non-redwood tree trunks were coated with moss and many also had lush ferns growing anthem, like wild beards.
Fallen logs had different decorations - blooming bracket mushrooms. These mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of the fungus that eats the dead log on the inside.
Despite my slow walk I made it to Alice Eastwood Campground in good time. It was perfect time for a lunch break so after inspecting the campground I sat down to eat.
Two ravens came by and stood near, looking at me. Then they crowed. Eventually they left, unsatisfied.
Common Raven
From Alice Eastwood it is a short and steep trail down to Redwood Creek Trail. Redwood Creek was wide and running high as well. The trail, wide and partly paved - partly boardwalk, was full of people. I was astonished to see how many people were walking down there on a work day morning. Certainly after seeing very few other hikers on the trail so far.
Redwood Creek
After checking my map I realized that the Redwood Creek Trail comes directly from Muir Woods National Monument. Nearly all he other visitors had come from there, extending their Muir Woods hike into the State Park area.
And they were tourists. A vast majority of them. I heard many languages spoken, some quite loudly (even though the signs asked to keep it low). English-speaking people I chanced to talked with were also mostly tourists, from other states.
They all came here to see there redwoods.
Coastal Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens)
At that point I was moving along quickly. As much as I love that scenery, I felt frustrated by the numbers of people. The morning calm was gone, giving way to an upsetting commotion.
And still, there were many beautiful sights there, beckoning me to stop and look closer.
Common Horsetail Rush (Equisetum arvense)
I continued along Redwood Creek, enjoying the rush of water and the fresh forest smell, trying to ignore the loud yells of a group of teens on a field trip. The teens, nearly all focused on their phones, were shouting to one another, ignoring the majestic views around them. I suspect that later on they won't remember a thing from this place.
Ferns were everywhere around. Beautiful, lush, and dripping water. I could hear the water flowing beneath the vegetation all around.
I was relieved when I finally reached the ten to Ocean View Trail and started going uphill again, putting more and more distance between myself and the human noise below. I was also going fast now, thinking I should make it back home on time to pick up my daughters from school. I was also getting a good and well needed workout.
New fern leaves are particularly beautiful, delicate and charming. They made me stop my uphill stride.
I continued uphill somewhat slower. Now that the people's noise was muffled below I felt more like hiking again, and giving more attention to my surroundings.
More hikers were coming down the trail, passing me on the way down. There were local, in small groups, pairs or single like me. I was already on my way up and out.
But then again - more trillium :-)
Pacific Trillium (Trillium ovatum)
The higher I walked, the thinner the redwoods were. And fewer. Other tree species became more prevalent and in thicker groves. Like this cute fir grove right by the trail.
Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
I kept moving up quickly until I came upon another obstacle - more fallen trees across the trail. This time it was California laurel that was downed. The smell was absolutely incredible. It may not look like much, but I had to do some fancy acrobatics to pass his one.
Fallen California Laurel (Umbellularia californica)
I completed my loop and went back up on Lost Trail out of the forest. Some of the Poppies had opened up by then. Not too many though. At the time the clouds had already rolled in and the day turned overcast. Most poppies had remained closed.
California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)
The last flower I photographed on my hike is not a California native, but it was cute and pretty and I'm pretty sure hasn't escaped from anyone's back yard.
Drug fumitory (Fumaria officinalis)
And then, just as I made it back on Panoramic Trail, that low-pitch buzz again. This time I took the time and waited until the tiny bird finally settled on one of the bushes.
There! A hummingbird! One of the spring announcers - the rufous (or Allen's?) hummingbird. Patience pays off.
Rufous or Allen's Hummingbird
Later this spring I'll go back there with my 4-H group. I hope they'll be impressed by the place as I have. I hope they will fall in love with it as I have. I told them not to bring any electronic devices. The forest in more than enough to fill up the soul.
Many thanks to members of the California Native Plants Society for their help in identifying wildflowers!
