Exploration on Foot at Turtle Bay, Redding

Sacramento River View East from the Redding Sundial Bridge

Date: November 27, 2019
Place: Turtle Bay, Redding, California
Address: 844 Sundial Bridge, Redding, CA 96003
Length: 3 miles
Level: easy

Last Thanksgiving week the chikas' schools were out for the entire week. Pappa Quail however, was still working until Thanksgiving Day, so I took the chikas and their friend for a three-days trip to the Shasta area for some exploration and fun. During the first days there we had visited the Shasta Dam and explored Pluto's Cave. On the last day, before heading back home, we went to the famous Turtle Bay Exploration Park. After visiting the museum and the animals area we went over the Sundial Bridge across the Sacramento River for a hike in the little river preserve and the McConnell Arboretum & Gardens.

Our hike as captured by my GPS

The days we spend in the Shasta area were also when the first winter storm had stormed through Northern California, bringing well needed rains but also dumping lots of snow even on lower elevations that do not often get snow.
When we were at Turtle Bay the main storm was already over but it was still overcast with heavy clouds, and it was still cold with an occasional rain shower. 
The sky looked very dramatic indeed and all of us bundled well for the hike.

Crossing the Sundial Bridge

There were a few people out and about. I assume that on warmer days the place there are more people there but on that day we had the bridge almost entirely to ourselves.
I stopped in the middle of the bridge and looked at the Sacramento River. The river was full and flowing high and fast. It certainly wasn't a day to go swimming in the river.

At Turtle Bay the Sacramento River has a coupler of wide curves so at the place of the Sundial Bridge the river flows from west to east rather than north to south as is most of its path. A mountain loomed over the western river bend. The kids wondered if that might be Mt. Shasta but the proximity to Redding and moreover - the wrong direction, ruled that right out. But I couldn't tell them then what was that mountain. 

Sacramento River View west from the Redding Sundial Bridge

Needless to say, without the sunlight, the sundial function of the bridge's tower was of very little use for telling time. We did enjoy going under it and around it and posing for some photos with it in the background. 

Under the Sundial Bridge

Satisfied with the close up view of the Sundial Bridge tower we took off eastward on the Sacramento River Trail. Large valley oaks loomed over the trail, adding whatever shade left of their fall-dwindled canopies to that of the rain clouds.

Valley Oak, Quercus lobata 

The trail near the river attracted joggers, dog walkers, and fellow hikers. Once we turned north to follow the loop there were fewer people along the trail.
To the east rose a low hill with houses at the top. To the west spread a flat oak savannah that before the building of the Shasta Dam, as we learned on or visit there two days before, used to be seasonal flood plains that became submerged whenever the river got engorged by the winter storms or fast snow-melt events.
The mountain we've seen from the bridge was visible over the trees, its summit hidden in the clouds. Once again the kids asked about it, and once again I shrugged. I didn't know the name of that peak, but I did know it wasn't Mt. Shasta.

The trail was paved all the way through, making it an easy, fast walk for us. We kept going round the loop and, looking south, we could see the tilted Sundial Bridge tower poking through the oaks.
The sky looked dramatic but no rain came down.

Suddenly - sunshine! The sun found its way through a hole in the clouds and gave us a brief warm moment. A moment to enjoy the scenery in its fall beauty.

Valley Oak, Quercus lobata

There were no flowers to be seen anywhere. It was too late in fall and too early in winter fr that. All the grasses were dry and many of the undergrowth shrubs were bare. I thought some of them looked familiar and when I saw some bearing fruit I recognized them immediately - even without the 'leaves if three', these were poison oak.

Poison Oak, Toxicodendron diversilobum

And a good thing it was that I recognized it on time because my younger chika was just about to pick up a fallen twig from under one of these irritant bushes. I stopped her right as she was reaching for it.

Poison Oak, Toxicodendron diversilobum

We kept going around the prairie, now enjoying intermittent sunny patches. On a different season I might have taken more time to explore the area but there were no wildflowers and we saw no wildlife save for a few little bush birds.

The western arch of the loop trail was lined with different bushes - cultivated roses, also in their fruit-bearing phase. I reached for the fruit, and they were soft and supple, so I picked some and ate them. The kids saw me and followed suit, making faces at the many seeds and hairy texture.

Rosehips 

Under the rose bush, hidden from the weak sunshine, were the remains of yesterday's snow. Redding is too low and warm to get snow frequently, and although a good amount came down, very little of it remained by the afternoon of the following day.

By the time we were completing the loop trail the sun hid behind the clouds again.

Back on the Sacramento River Trail

 Knowing the kids I thought they would want to finish the hike right there but to my surprise they decided to go on and explore the McConnell Arboretum & Gardens. Needs to say, I was all for it.
Little redbud trees in fall colors welcomed us as we entered the arboretum.

Western Redbud, Cercis occidentalis 

I spotted a pretty monument in the shape of a crab's pincer, picturing many local animals down the trail, so we went down that path to get a closer look.

Near the monument I spotted the only plant that was blooming that day n the arboretum - a California fuchsia, low near the ground. It made me happy to see the flowers.

California Fuchsia, Epilobium canum

At the west end of the arboretum there is a small human-made island which is a mound of rocks and soil, still being planted and landscaped. It is the "Spider Island" and the bridge leading to it is decorated with metal spiders and is appropriately named, "Charlotte's Bridge". Not a place for arachnophobic people, I guess, but I found it amusing. We didn't see any real spiders there that day, however.

Charlotte? 

What we did find here (actually, it was my elder chika who found it), was a little tree frog hopping by the trail. I managed to get a ew shots before it vanished out of our sight.

California Tree Frog

We were circling the island and the afternoon sun graced us with another rare appearance, revealing the pretty fall colors of the bushes by the trail side.

As we were rounding our loop around the island we were also going around a small pond full of ducks. These were mostly mallards, my elder chika informed me.

We came around the pond, enjoying a nice reflection o the fall-colored trees behind it. The arboretum's nursery was behind it too. Any other time I might have been tempted to go inside and look for plants to buy but this was not the time for it.

The clouds closed on us again, eliminating whatever little warmth the sun had blessed us with. Moreover - the afternoon wind picked up. We wrapped ourselves again, and hurried out of the arboretum. As we crossed the river again back to the Turtle Bay Exploration Park's parking lot I stopped once more in the middle of the Sundial Bridge and took a close up shot of the mountain to the west.
Today, as I am working on this blogpost, I took the time to post the mountain photo online and soon enough I had an answer for my query: this mountain is called Shasta Bally and it is part of the Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. I know now where I plan to hike next time I'm near Redding.

Shasta Bally 

This nice hike was our last activity in the Shasta-Redding area. After a nice lunch in town, we took off on the long drive back to the Bay Area. The day after we would go out again, this time without the chika's friend but with Pappa Quail, once again to Northern California, but this time along the coast: to Redwood Country. 

Hiking Down the Ditch: Down Digger Creek to the Sacramento River

Sacramento River

Date: June 10, 2018
Place: Shasta Dam, Lake Shasta National Recreation Area, California
Coordinates: 40.712570, -122.415922
Length: about 5 miles (from the dam trailhead to Chamise Peak trailhead)
Level: moderate to strenuous

A century and a half ago prospectors came looking for gold in the mountains near where today is the city of Redding. The river was down below and fetching water a hard work so they dug a ditch to bring water from the high sources to the little mining settlements along the river. In the modern days this ditch was converted to a lovely hiking/biking trail that stretches from the Shasta Dam all the way down to Redding.
Last June I was planned to take my family hiking group on a camping trip in the area and the Ditch Trail was high on my list of hikes to take them on so some days earlier I went there to go on a solo prep hike.
The blooming toyon welcomed me as I started down the trail.

Toyon, Heteromeles arbutifolia

It was a hot day and I liked the shaded trail I was walking on. It was level at first, but then plunged into a few down-sloping switchbacks.

Alongside the trail bloomed the Saint John's Wart in large numbers. Not the native species, however, but an invasive European one.

Klamathweed, Hypericum perforatum

When u visited the area in April with my family the redbud trees were in full bloom and no foliage. Two months later they all had their large, butterfly-shaped leaves, with clusters if red seed pods dangling from their thin branches.

Western Redbud, Cercis occidentalis

The redbud can be quite spectacular when blooming and very pretty still when laden with fruit but as far as blooming shrubs go, the mock orange was the favorite of my hike there. Its delicate white flowers reminded me of fresh snow flakes - a cool relief in an otherwise very hot day. I came across this species several times during the hike.

Wild Mock Orange, Philadelphus lewisii

For the first mile I defended through forest of low-canopy trees. I was glad of the shade because the day was hot and getting hotter yet. Most of the bloom I saw along the trail was that of shrubs and bushes. There were some interesting plants blooming there that I don't get to see very often.

Snapdragon Skullcap, Scutellaria antirrhinoides

But the one blossom that made me the happiest was that of the spicebush. A month earlier it was in its beginning, but come June, it was in its full glory.

Spicebush, Calycanthus occidentalis 

While attracted many to flowers I certainly don't ignore other plant beauty, like the cluster of maple fruits like green, balled-up hedgehog.

Vine Maple, Acer circinatum

Eventually the trail leveled off and I was out of the woods. I was still pretty high above the Sacramento River and the vegetation changed to chaparral. I walked under thick power lines that stretched from the valley below all the way up and over the hill.

I followed the powerless with my gaze - they originated at the hydroelectric power plant of the Shasta Dam.  I had now full view of the dam, a massive wall of cement and very impressive piece of engineering holding the huge Shasta Lake behind it, loomed over the valley.

Shasta Dam

I admired the dam for a few moments, then moved on with my hike. The trail curved southward and remained level and high above the river. Every now and then the chaparral changed into patches of low forest, especially when crossing the little creeks that were running down the hill into the valley below.

Manzanita bushes were dominant of the hillside. I love the sight of the old red bark peeling off to reveal the fresh green one. Very delicate.

Manzanita

At one of the little creek crossings I passed along my way I saw a large oleander bush. I know this plant very well from the old world - very beautiful but deadly when consumed, even in minute quantities. Despite its toxicity oleander is used in landscaping and sometimes it escapes to the wild. In California it is, of course, an invasive species.

Oleander, Nerium oleander

Of the California native wildflowers I was happy to see (and smell) the coyote mint, a flower I've seen in diverse places throughout this state.

Coyote Mint, Monardella villosa

Wherever there are flowers there would be butterflies. Not as many as I've seen in the area in May but still very present and very beautiful. Most were also too active to pose for a photo.

Pipevine Swallowtail, Battus philenor

Without Pappa Quail around I ay a little less attention to the birds. Some birds, however, are impossible to ignore.

Osprey

The trail stretched on and on high above the river. At no point did it seem that it would go down any closer to the water. I also couldn't see the trail going uphill that I was looking for. It was much farther off than I had calculated form the general map of the area that I got at the dam's visitor center. It was already clear to me that if I'd take the family hiking group down the trail I wouldn't take them that far. I was enjoying the hike immensely, but I also begun worrying about the time it was consuming - I had hoped to check out Caste Crags State Park too that day. 

The Ditch Trail

I tried going faster but found myself stopping again and again to look closely at pretty flowers and other things I encountered on the trail. Some of these wildflowers I don't get to see very often.

Whitestem frasera, Frasera albicualis

And orchids are always a reason for celebration, although the one I saw was broken at the top. 

Flat-spurred Piperia, Platanthera transversa

Between the manzanita bushes I got glimpses of the Sacramento river down below, gleaming in emerald. Occasionally the tranquil water would get disturbed by a speedboat zooming by, and a few seconds after the boat would pass the water would resume its lazy course downstream. 

The water level wasn't high although water is let out pf the dam. I wished I had the time to go down to the river and maybe kayak there a bit. I made a mental note to do that when an opportunity presents itself. 

Sacramento River

I reached the trail fork going up to Chamise Peak and started ascending, going higher and further from the river. Looking back it appeared now as a thick emerald ribbon cutting between the hills. A line of life for the area, indeed for a big part of Northern California. 

Sacramento River

A few bikers passed me when I was following the Ditch Trail along the river. As I started ascending the Chamise Peak trail they came back, rolling downhill. One of them lost control and spilled on the rocks. He wasn't injured badly but had some nasty looking cuts and scrapes on his legs. I proposed to run up to the peak and phone for help but he was able to get up and go on biking with his friends. I walked on.

Chamise Peak Trail

Higher above the river the chaparral got much lower and par less a thicket. There were also much less manzanita and toyon and more yerba santa and other shrubs I didn't identify.

When I made it to the pass I had a surprise - a wonderful view of my favorite mountain in California - Lassen Peak. 

Lassen Peak viewed from Chamise Peak Trail

A half a mile long trail leading to Chamise Peak forked off the main trail. I sat down for a short break and debated with myself wether I had the time to go up the peak. Looking at the time I decided to leave that for another time. I got to my feet and started downhill on the eastern side of Chamise Peak trail. 

It was about a mile more to get to the road. I walked that mile very quickly, stopping only to admire a penstemon that closed near the trail and to have a little chat with a hiker that was taking her daughters to the peak.  

Penstemon sp. 

On one of the trees nearby perched a turkey vulture and looked at me hungrily. I assured it I wasn't about to die soon, andthanked it for posing. 

Turkey Vulture

I reached the road. There were about three miles between the Chamise Peak Trailhead and the Shasta Dam where I was parked. I relied on hitch-hiking that distance but unlike other times in the past when I was picked up almost as soon as I raised my thumb, no one was in a hurry to give me a lift now. So i walked. I walked nearly three quarters of the distance until an old car with a young couple, a toddler and a dog stopped and offered me a ride. I was already very hot and sweaty, and very much behind schedule, and very much grateful for the lift.  

Shasta Lake

As late as I was, I did take the time to eat at the beautiful picnic area by the dam and admire the view of Mount Shasta under the clouds.

Mount Shasta

I then took a short walk on the Shasta Dam itself before driving off to Castle Crags. A few days after I was back there with my hiking group. We hiked down to the dam view point below, then back up to walk across the dam and peer down. It was a short and sweet hike, nearly all shaded which was good, because temperatures reached the 90's that day. There's much more to see and explore in the area and I left eager to go back there. 

Shasta Dam

A few weeks after my hike near Shasta Dam broke the huge Carr Fire which devastated the entire area of Whiskeytown National Recreation Area and reached to Redding, laying waste the neighborhood through which I walked while trying to hitchhike from the Chamise Peak trailhead. Such devastation. Such a heartbreak.