Around the Round Hills of Round Valley Regional Preserve

Dates: February 5 and 10, 2018
Place: Round Valley Regional Preserve, Clayton, California
Coordinates: 37.867574, -121.751491
Length: 4.5 miles
Level: moderate

A couple of years ago a fellow member of the California Native Plants Society posted online photos from Round Valley Regional Preserve. Those photos were taken early in the morning and featured oak trees in the mist and dew drips hanging from leaves. I promptly added Round Valley to my hiking wish list.
This year I realized that to make this wish happen I needed some sort of commitment. I therefore added Round Valley to the list of hikes I planned for the Redwood 4-H Hiking Project that I lead. Comes February, and I dedicated a morning for a solo prep hike. Five days later I was there with the group. Most photos here are from my solo hike on February 5. The others were taken on February 10 during the group hike. Pappa Quail did not join us this time, but my elder chika is now a full-blown birder and is becoming better at taking wildlife photos with every hike. I included here some of her photos too.
Below is a mockingbird that my elder chika photographed by the parking lot.

Northern Mockingbird

A wide cement bridge across Marsh Creek leads to the main trailhead. There it's a dilemma: left or right? I turned left and started along the creek.


There are many oak trees at the Round Valley preserve, and nearly all of them deciduous. I was walking by completely naked trees. The buckeye trees however, were budding their leaves already.

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica 

The trail I was walking on leads away from Round Valley itself. Going on - it leads to what looked like a small farm area.

Marsh Creek

Not too far from the farm boundary the trail shifts westward and starts a mild ascend on the hill. The bottom part of the hill is holed through by ground squirrels. On the 4H hike my chika captured a photo of their wary sentinel.

California Ground Squirrel

The slope of the trail was mild and almost without noticing I was high enough to have a nice view of the low hills to the east and the farm below.

I continued on and before long I was walking into and up the narrow canyon of High Creek.

High Creek

A fellow hiked who was coming down the trail told me that there were buttercups blooming - spring was coming! I found them a bit further up the trail.

California Buttercup, Ranunculus californicus

I have lived long enough in the East Bay to know their chameleon-like colors change with the season. But it never ceases to amaze me. The intense green all over was was wonderful to see.

A dried pond behind a little dam. 

At that point I haven't yet seen the Round Valley itself but the hills were round enough - round and soft-contoured. Here and there though, the rocky bones of the hike were exposed by the curving creek.

I would have loved to see the creek running with water but the rains up to that day were not sufficient. Perhaps next time I could see the cascades of High Creek.

High Creek

The hike from Marsh Creek to the highest point of Hardy Canyon Trail is nearly two miles long. The grade isn't very high but the constant ascend can be tiring. On my solo hike I kept a steady and continuous pace but with the 4H group we stopped about two thirds of the way up for a short break.

While the youths snacked and chatted I found a pretty buckeye sprout to appreciate.

California Buckeye sprout

Rested, I prompted the children back to their feet and we moved on upward. At its higher part the trail became somewhat steeper. It also left the wooded canyon. All of a sudden I had view :-)

Looking back: Brentwood below 

Th trail leveled again. The green scene was broken with red algae covered rocks in the field.

Red stands out really nicely against the green background. Even if there's not much of it over all, it catches the eye immediately.

Fruit-bearing Toyon, Heteromeles arbutifolia 

The trail I selected for the hike doesn't go into Round Valley itself but circumvents the large hill southeast of the valley. The trail brought me to the highest pass around the hill and I could see ts summit to my right. A few cows were grazing on the green slope. One of them stood apart from the rest, way up the hill.

Over the pass i finally got to see Round Valley itself. I guess that with some loose geometry it can be taken for round. I was quite excited to see the double peaks of Mount Diablo peeking behind the next ridge.

Round Valley and Mt. Diablo. 

It was quiet and empty down below. I saw no people there, only cows. On Saturday of February 8 there were more people in the park but the valley was still fairly vacant of humans.

Round Valley, Murray Meadow

I started downhill. The descent into the valley was much steeper than the way I came up on. There were a few switchbacks to the trail and in the corner of one of these switchbacks a large valley oak was growing. It is a deciduous tree and its buds looked ready to pop. I photographed its budding branch on February 5.

Valley Oak, Quercus lobata, buds February 5. 

Three days later the young leaves were out, heralding spring.

Same Valley Oak, Quercus lobata, buds February 10. 

On a similar branch of a nearby oak perched a bluebird. My elder chika documented the pretty bird as we walked by. He didn't seem to mind one bit.

Western Bluebird, male

I walked down quickly. On my decent I passed the exposed rock face of the hill. These rocks were nicely weathered and had many crevices and holes. I was told by another hiker I met along the way that this area used to be a Miwok trading place. He was looking for relics. I just enjoyed the rock formations.

Going down

As I moved down and around the hill the view north opened up. I couldn't see the Sacramento River itself but I could see the area north of it. It was covered with those ugly wind turbines.

Wind turbines north of the Sacramento River

The near view was prettier: beautiful ak trees on a beautiful sky background.

I encountered more cattle on the way down. This time - bulls. Contrary to their reputations bulls are the least likely to be aggressive of all cattle. They didn't experience having their calves taken from them and they didn't experience the pain of castration. Calm and indifferent the bull went on with his lunch as I walked by.

Ferdinand

At the bottom of the hill the Hardy Canyon Trail connected with the Round Valley Trail. This path was much wider and it was apparent that every now and then it serves farm vehicles.

There was a small bridge across the creek and a few small rocks near it. A air of wren were jumping and making funny dance moves on top of these rocks. My chika caught one of them on camera.

Rock Wren

On February 5 there was still a thin trickle of wate flowing down Round Valley Creek. By February 8 it was dry. On my solo hike I took a narrow hikers trail that rose somewhat above the creek. i got a nice view of the thin water line from there.

Round Valley Creek

There, vining around the small undergrowth bushes I spotted another early flowering plant - the California man-root.

California Man-root, Marah fabacea


From the upper trail I could see the white limestone layer just above the creek, standing out like a scar.

On the 4H hike three days later we were walking the wide, lower dirt road that followed the creek much more closely.

Nearing the end of the hike the trail curves up the hill and then down again. We took a lower shortcut that run near a fence - possibly the fence of a farm on the other side. There was an agriculture field over below, and beautiful- blossomed almond trees right at the fence. They are invasive plants here but their bloom smells wonderful.

Sweet Almond, Prunus dulcis

The complete loop we hiked is about 4.5 miles long but it feels much shorter than that. Almost without noticing I was back at the trailhead and the bridge over Marsh Creek where I started.

That would have been the end of excitement for the group hike too but my elder chika made a discovery: inside a hole in the ground, very close to the parking lot, was a large toad. We all crouched near the hole to appreciate the amphibian, who didn't even flinch.

California Toad

I got to check Round Valley Regional preserve on my list of wanna do hikes, but there is still much to see there. So this park is now on my list of wanna go back to hikes :-).

The Awakening Spring and the Waterfalls of Mount Diablo

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica

Date: January 31, 2017
Place: Mt. Diablo State Park, Clayton, California
Trailhead Address: 176 Regency Drive, Clayton, California
Length: Approximately 5 miles
Level: strenuous

There are waterfalls on Mount Diablo, and all of them are seasonal. To see them flowing one has to go there in the rainy season. I tried hiking the Falls Loop trail last October, but the rain was still on, and the trail was such a deep and sticky quagmire that I gave up pretty quickly.
What I do remember from that short attempt are the nut-heavy buckeye trees, already stripped of their leaves but wearing their fruits like holiday ornaments.

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica, October, 2016

The passed season has been good to the buckeye - all the trees were heavy with fruit and many had double, triple, and even quadruple fruits hanging off each branch. I couldn't recall when was the last time I'd seen them so fruitful.

Buckeye nuts

 The rain was heavy in Northern California so far, as if to compensate for the long drought of the last four years. I was busy with my own things and was just beginning to get back into my usual routine, when last week the rains paused for several days.
The last day of January was expected to be a fabulous day. I had planned to go hiking that day, my original destination being the Hayward Shoreline, but as I was packing my things it dawned on me that today would be the perfect time to go and see those Mt. Diablo waterfalls, just before the rains resume again. Once that thought occurred to me, it immediately turned into a decision. I packed my breakfast into my backpack and got in the car.
The shortest path to the Falls Loop is at the Regency Gate at the north side of the park, in Clayton. By the time I got there I had less than 3.5 hours before I needed to be driving back to pick up the chikas from school. Not wasting time on trifles such as breakfast, I hoisted my backpack, extended my poles, and hurried down the unofficial path leading from the dead-end of Regency Drive to the park's boundary.

The sound of rushing water welcomed me. I went down to Donner Creek and observed with much satisfaction that the creek was flowing nice and strong. With this flow, the waterfalls must be running too.          

Donner Creek

The direct route to the Falls Loop is by Donner Rd, along Donner Creek. On my October  hike attempt there the road was to muddy to walk on. It still had muddy areas today, and in parts had little rivulets running right through it in tiny canyons of their own carving, but it was passable.
The deciduous trees were all bare still, deep in their winter slumber. The only green foliage seen on the huge oaks were those bright green balls of mistletoe hanging from the branches like huge nests of some mighty wren.

The buckeye trees were now completely bare, having let go of their ornamental nuts. It would take some time before I see these green up again. Or so I thought as I walked past the first group of them.

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica

But every population has its hasty members, and as I continued along the creek I noticed one buckeye that had started budding out. The next tree over had its new spring leaves already stretching out (header photo). These two trees were the only buckeye I've seen budding that day. These were the early risers. 

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica

I saw a few yellow dots in the green grass that covered the hills -they were early buttercup blossoms, the first flowers I saw on the hike.
The trail led my uphill in a mild slope. I was walking southeast and the late morning sun was in my eyes. The peak of Mount Diablo towered in the background, looking hazy and aloof under the brilliant sunlight. I walked mostly with my head down, protecting my eyes from the glare of the sun.

Walking with the head down has its advantages, like seeing things that are very close to the ground. In this case - a fallen, rotting log, covered with turkeytail mushrooms. 

Turkeytail

About 1.3 miles I reached the Donner Cabin site. In the 19th Century the area belonged to a rancher named Donner (no relations to the Donner of the fateful Donner Party after which the Donner Memorial Park was named), and here is where he used to live. All that is left there now is a small patch of cobblestones and a large patch of cultivated daffodils. Many of the daffodils were blooming and their scent had filled the air and my nostrils.

Daffodils

Past Donner's Cabin the road begun to climb much more steeply, and the natural avenue of buckeye, pine, and oak trees was quickly replaced with high and dense chaparral of chamise, toyon, and manzanita. The manzanita was already blooming, and the ground below the bushes matted with their fallen white petals.

Common Manzanita, Arctostaphylos manzanita

The toyon bushes added their own flash of color to the local decor: their beautiful red berries standing out on the deep green background.

Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), and Coulter Pine, (Pinus coulteri)

 In the shade of the chaparral I found another species of early spring flowers: the delicate white milk maids. They were not many, their season was just beginning, but I saw them along all the higher part of my hike.

Milk Maids, Cardamine californica

The road leveled off a bit, and in good time too, because I was already dripping sweat. I arrived at the intersection of Donner Canyon Road with Meridian Ridge Trail and the beginning of the Falls Loop.
I looked all around. The view was stunning. Although northward, the town of Clayton was under fog still, I could get a good appreciation of how high I had climbed. And more climb was ahead of me still.

Looking up (southward).

There were plenty of birds about, but none was rendering itself to the camera. At least I could enjoy their songs.

I made the choice to turn right and hike the Falls Loop clock-wise. The trail continued in a steep uphill slope but after a short distance I saw the left turn to the narrow Falls Loop Trail, so well tucked away between the bushes that I might have passed it by if not for the trail sign that was planted there.
I went on that trail. It was narrow and the chaparral was so high there that it towered well over my head, effectively blocking most of the sunlight. In the deep shade of the vegetation I nearly forgot the heat of my ascent and as my sweat cooled off my body I begun to shiver.
I kept looking under the chaparral, searching for the red spot of budding Indian warrior bloom. There were few, and soon I had spotted them, also at the beginning of their blooming season.  

Indian Warrior, Pedicularis densiflora

I found more surprises when I looked down on the ground. Little surprises.

Asterella Liverwort

The trail kept leading me up higher and higher and soon I warmed up again from my uphill efforts. Every now and then I also passed trail sections that were exposed to the sun. In some parts also the view opened up before me and I could see the canyon etched in the mountain side, extending almost up to the top.
Far away, in a darkened area of the canyon I noticed a white vertical line. I had to use my binoculars to figure out what it was.

It was a waterfall. The first waterfall I saw on my hike. It was flowing, and it was very far.

Soon, however, I came upon another waterfall that was much closer -right by the trail. The water cascaded down noisily, splashing me as I poked through the vegetation to get a closer look.

I didn't have time to sit down and appreciate that cascade fully, so I continued up the trail and across the two tributaries that connected just below that cascade.
A bit higher up the trail I saw another early spring flower: the tiny white bloom of the miners' lettuce.

Streambank Sprinkbeauty, Claytonia parviflora ssp. parviflora

Up and higher I went up the narrow trail. at times it was really, really narrow. So narrow that I had to place one foot right in front of the other to fit in the path. The slope of the mountain was steep, rising sharply to my right and dropping deep down to my left. For the most part there was thick vegetation on either side, but every now and then the trail would go on a rocky ledge, exposed to the air and the sunlight. On those times I could see how much higher I had ascended and how far down would I fall I'd lose my footing. The trail, at least, was reasonably dry. I could see how hazardous this path could be when soaking wet.
A small group of people was coming down the trail toward me. I pushed myself to the mountain side to the trail, making them as much room as I could to pass by. They halted briefly and we had a quick, light chat, exchanging our observations before continuing on. Just before going on I observed this lovely juniper growing right at the edge of the cliff.

California Juniper, Juniperus californica

The trail leveled off and I wondered if I'd arrived at the highest point of my hike. More people were coming down the trail toward me, in couples or singles. All other hikers I'd met on the Falls Loop Trail that day were hiking it counter-clockwise and for a moment I wondered if I was breaking some rule by hiking it in the opposite direction to everyone else.
I didn't think about it for long for a moment later I looked upon another waterfall, the deepest I've seen on that hike.

I was hoping the trail would take me right to the waterfall but after some more walking I realized that that one view I'd had of it was the only one I'd get - the trail took me well above the fall and there was no more clear view of it.
I consoled myself by appreciating the fresh bloom of the California laurel trees that I came across when I crossed the creek.

California Laurel, Umbellularia californica

When I first read a description of this trail a while ago I also read a warning of the impassability of it when the water flow is high. Indeed, I had to cross several tributaries of the Donner Creek on my hike, and it wasn't always easy, even after a week of dry weather.
On my next creek crossing above the large waterfall I saw a smaller, narrower cascade. There were many of those along the way, but I was happy to see each and everyone of them. Waterfalls make me happy.

After that creek crossing, for a short segment of that trail, I found myself on the south-facing slope, bathed in bright and warm sunlight. A light, invigorating breeze caressed my face and dried my sweat. A rocky ledge protruded from the cliff side and a sole, crooked Coulter pine grew at its edge. It was the perfect spot to have a lunch break.

I was pressed to be back in time to pick up the chikas from school so I only allowed myself a 10-minute break, but I enjoyed every second of it. The fog had lifted off Clayton and I could see the entire canyon below, all the way to town. Although the fog was gone, the air was still hazy and the town dimmed and disappeared into a murky grayness that became continuous with the sky.

With much reluctance I finished my lunch and resumed my hike. Soon I came in view of yet another waterfall.

A single hiker crossed my path. He was the last hiker I saw that day, and he informed me that he'd seen no others on the trail, confirming my feeling that everyone else that hiked the Falls Loop had done it counter-clockwise. I thought it didn't matter because the falls are pretty either way. 

I continued my hike, enjoying the green scene and the wonderful atmosphere of early spring. 

Polypodium sp. Fern

Throughout the entire loop trail I came across lots of diggings and rough trails broken through the chaparral, and much slope erosion due to heavy footfall. It wasn't humans who did it but it was humans who brought it about. That damage was done by feral pigs, originated from domesticated pigs brought here by the European settlers that escaped and established themselves in the wild.

Pig damage

After much winding along the steep mountain side the trail finally begun descending down. Once again I faced north and the view of the wide sky spread before me, unhindered by no other mountain peaks.

Trail view

Mount Diablo is geologically complex, comprised of many rock types and evidence of many processes that had contributed to shape the mountain we see today. Most of this geology is covered up with vegetation, but here and there it pokes out from under the cover :-)

One of the prettier rocks that make up Mount Diablo is the Franciscan  Chert. Its earthy broun and fine layers make it stand out in the scenery when exposed. On the eastern arm of the Falls Loop there is a big mass of this beautiful chert, almost bare of plants.

And on a different spot not far from the chert - a different type of rock, bearing rosettes of dudleya plants, all swollen with water.

Canyon Dudleya, Dudleya cymosa

Further down the trail I looked back and saw a double waterfall. The trail had taken me over the top one without allowing a good view of it. The bottom one was completely hidden from my sight until I was well removed from it.

 

I took a couple of close-up photos of these falls. Clicking the images will enlarge them for a better view.

 

Down and down the trail I went. By that time I was in a real hurry, knowing that I would likely be late to pick up my chikas from schoo. I just hoped I wouldn't be late much. I therefore hurried along, stopping very little and taking much fewer photos.
The Falls Loop Trail came to an end at the intersection with the Cardinet Oaks Road, another wide dirt road that connects with the Donner Canyon Road. That trail segment is only half a mile long, but is quite steep. It was there that I understood why everyone else was hiking the loop counter-clockwise. It easier to go up a steep grade than to go down it as I had to do. Once again I learned that a downhill grade doesn't mean easier or faster hike. By the time I turned right back onto the Donner Canyon Road my thigh muscles were throbbing with ache.

I suppose it would have been easier if I hadn't been in such a hurry. I couldn't afford the time to stop either, and only halted briefly to photograph a beautiful woolly Indian paintbrush that had started its spring bloom.

Woolly Indian Paintbrush, Castilleja foliolosa

I passed the Donner Cabin site and then the trail leveled into a mild descent. Although I had walked this trail on my way up it was only on my descent that I noted the beautiful avenue of oaks that stood by the trail. I really should go back there in May and see them all with foliage,

I had passed my personal deadline by 15 minutes when I made it back to the Regency Gate. Taking a farewell look at the swollen Donner Creek I rushed uphill to my car and drove off at a speed that must have left some tire marks.
I was only 15 minutes late for picking up my older chika but she was upset with me anyway.

Donner Creek

The north region of Mount Diablo State Park is quite different from its western slopes, the side I usually visit. The high water flow, the deep canyons that wrinkle the north slopes, and the abundant vegetation make this part into a magnificent wonderland island that stands out in the openness of the East Bay hills.  Usually I visit this area later in spring, to see the bloom of the Mount Diablo Globe Lily, but there is so much more to see there, and it is beautiful year-round. Next time I'll plan to be less constrained with time and explore more of those north side trails.

Many thanks to members of the California Native Plants Society for their help in identifying plants!