Going High and Dry: Hiking at the Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve

Date: May 19, 2022

Place: Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve, San Jose, California

Coordinates: 37.394067, -121.813692

Length: 7.4

Level: strenuous

After recovering from my foot injury last winter I was looking to get back into a routine of weekly hikes in the Bay Area. I invited my friend to join me on as hike to Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve and she invited one of her friends, so on the planned day the three of us met at the west parking lot of Alum Rock Park and started walking uphill.  

Our hike as captured by my GPS

After merely 300 yards I realized I forgot my camera so I left my friends waiting for me under a tree and went down to retrieve it from the car.  I then made my way uphill again back to where my friends were sitting and chatting. 

Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve is a wild area above and around Alum Rock Park, and the watershed of Penitensia creek. We were hiking there in mid May but since the winter of 2021-2022 had no rains past December all the hills were already dry and yellow. By sight only, I could have thought we were hiking in July. The day was mild however, warm, but not too hot. 

Almost the entire area of the Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve is oak savanna plant community, meaning open grassland with oak trees that either stand alone or in small stands. The lone oaks each have a different shape or, 'personality'. I love looking at them, the look so majestic. 

Live Oak, Quercus agrifolia

On the way up we kept turning on trail switchbacks. Looking west I saw a stand of fan palms that were clearly planted there. A bit higher behind the palms was a large estate that looked like it's been there forever, perhaps from the earlier days of San Jose. 

Farther below to the west we had a grand view of downtown San Jose. San Jose is a huge city (and even been California's capital briefly in the past). Too bad the air was too murky to get a clear view. 

Downtown San Jose

Last spring wasn't a very good bloom year for most of California, the Bay Area included. Even so, I expected to see more flowers than we actually found on this hike. Everything was already very dry. Some flowers, the hardier species, did bloom here and there. 

Western Morning Glory, Calystegia occidentalis 

I also expected to see more wildlife than we actually saw on that hike.  I settled for evidence of wildlife, even of the smaller kinds. 

Spider Burrow 

The oak savanna of the East Bay hills is also lined with the dark lines of thicker creek tree growth. Not exactly a riparian vegetation - it's too dry for that, but the gulches do provide more moisture preservation that supports thicker growth. 

Past the switchback part of the ascent, we moved to walking directly uphill on the ridge overlooking the valley of Penitensia Creek. My friends took the lead, chatting between them, while I brought up the rear, enjoying the quiet air where the city noise didn't reach. 

Trail

We were now high enough to clear the ridge line and see the peaks of Mount Diablo to the northeast after turning the curve. This was the only point during this hike where we had sight of Mount Hamilton. 

Mount Hamilton Pick-A-Boo

There was one plant species that didn't show diminished bloom and that was the California Buckeye tree, one of the signature trees of the Bay Area. When there magnificent trees bloom they look like chandeliers bearing countless of white, candle-like inflorescences. They are quite a sight to see. 

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica 

Perhaps perennial species have better time dealing with the drought. The sticky monkeyflower, another common East Bay bush, was also blooming nicely. 

Sticky Monkeyflower, Diplacus aurantiacus 

Other plants of species that would normally make carpets this time of year were disappointingly few. The California poppy, our state flower, had very little representation on our hike. 

California Poppy, Eschscholzia californica

We kept ascending up to the ridge. The hills are all covered with soil and grasses but here and there there were exposed rocks. In one places an exposed rock by the trail (it may have been cut in the making of the trail (showed the lovely layers of sedimentation from eons ago. 

Layers

The day was growing hotter and after a good long uphill walk we were ready to have our break. In good timing we had reached a place where the trail leveled off into the creek's creese where there was thick growth of oaks and laurels. We sat down in the shade to rest, drink, and snack. 

As in many other open spaces in the East Bay, the Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve land is also leased for grazing. While we were sitting by the trail side a cow walked up the trail with here calf trailing behind her. I got a bit edgy because cows can become aggressive, especially when they have calves, but these two merely passed us and moved on up the trail without regarding us whatsoever. 

We stayed put until the bovines disappeared around the curve. After the good break we had it was time to move on, and I hoped that we won't find the cow and calf blocking our trail. They didn't and soon we emerged from the trees and were once again walking out in open grassland. A small dark bump in an otherwise smooth golden slope caught my attention - it was a ground squirrel standing guard where was his family's burrow. I don't recall that it emitted any warning calls as we passed by. Perhaps we were far enough to not be considered a threat. I presume these little creatures are familiar with human hiking habit and know that we don't usually stray of trail. 

California Ground Squirrel 

The slope was tapering off as we neared the summit of the nearest hill. Every now and then we passed an oak tree of a small stand of oaks. One of the tree stands we passed however, was of buckeye trees in full bloom. 

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica 

At the top of the hill there was a view point and we took the little detour to get there. On the way we came across a solo hiker who seemed a bit sour about encountering us there. It was a bit odd, most hikers I meet on the trail are friendly, or at least neutral. Very rarely I see a hiker that's obviously grumpy. Perhaps he wanted to be alone at the view point and we ruined his anticipated solitude. 

Vista Point

From the view point we had nice view down to the Santa Clara Valley, which today known as the Silicon Valley. Tp the south we also had a nice view of Mount Hamilton, the tallest mountain in the Bay Area. 

Mount Hamilton

We sat on the bench at the Vista Point for a nice long break, eating and chatting away. We also discussed where to go next and eventually came to the conclusion that we didn't have enough time to make a much longer loop. We also didn't want to simply go down and finish the hike too soon, so I suggested going down along the North Rim Trail of Alum Rock Park and visit the mineral springs of Penitensia Creek.  

Hills of Gold

We started downhill looping around the hill we were just at the top of. Once again we were going on a switchback trail, looking at Santa Clara Valley with each turn to the west and up at the basin of Penitensia Creek with each turn to the east. There were very few other hikers out that day and for the most part we had the trail all to ourselves. 

Descending, west view

We also didn't see any wildlife except for a few little birds that didn't pause long enough for a photo shoot. There weren't many flowers either, but I did see one blooming datura shrub. 

Jimsonweed, Datura wrightii

We completed the big hill loop and went down the connecting trail to Penitensia Creek. On the way I spotted a few interesting looking birds. They were songbirds, mostly black but their wings flashed white when they flew. They looked unfamiliar to me and although I tried my best to photograph them, they were top far away and in the trees and I didn't get any decent photo of these birds. I did memorize their appearance though, and when I got home and described them to Pappa Quail he surprised me with his ID - the birds I saw were apparently male phainopepla. Now, I've seen phainopepla many times before, but usually perched atop a bush, and I didn't remember the white flash of their wings in flight. Phainopepla are desert birds of the south areas and this was the first (and so far only) time I've ever seen them in the Bay Area. 

Alum Rock Park, North Rim Trail

When we reached the North Rim Trail we took it east and went down to see the mineral springs area. I've already posted on this blog about that part of Alum Rock Park, and I didn't see much that prompted me to take more photos. it is a very nice park and a lovely trail at any time of the year, though.  

Mama mallard with three ducklings in Penitensia Creek

After exploring a bit the mineral springs area it was time to finish the hike. My friend was pressed to get back on time to pick up her kids, so our walk down the South Rim Trail was at a fast pace. It was nice that we were under the shade for a change.

Penitensia Creek Trail

Despite our needed haste I had to stop and look at a blooming rosebush on the way. I even smelled the flowers. 

California Rose, Rosa californica

Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve is an excellent getaway place that's close to town and doesn't require much driving. The ridge trail offers sweeping views and a chance for relative solitude. I would like to go back there earlier in spring in the hope of seeing more wildflowers and possibly see the phainopepla that ventured north once more. 

Nature Between the Cities: Hiking at San Bruno Mountain

Ravens over Colma, the City of Souls

Date: September 15, 2022

Place: San Bruno Mountain County Park, Brisbane, California

Coordinates: 37.697045, -122.434067

Length: 3.9 miles

Level: moderate

 

Leading a 4H Hiking Project drives me to explore new trails constantly. I am fortunate to live in the Bay Area, which is geophysically diverse, and has abundance of hiking possibilities within a short driving distance. This is my 14th year of leading this project and very rarely have we revisited the same trail, there is so much to explore. For the first hike of this 4H year I chose to hike at San Bruno Mountain Park, a place I've been eying for some time. One of the perks of leading this project are the perp hikes, which I often do alone. This is the blogpost about my solo hike at San Bruno Mountain Park.

My hike as captured by my GPS

The day was overcast and cold. I started from the main parking lot and walked on the inner park road to the trailhead and there I started on the Summit Loop Trail, counterclockwise.

Summit Loop Trail

For seeing wildflowers in mid-September it's almost a given that one has to hike in the coastal area. There were wildflowers blooming along the trail. Not many species, and many of them and only a few California natives.

Pacific Aster, Symphyotrichum chilense

There was rich vegetation all around me, much of it invasive species such as eucalyptus trees and Himalayan blackberry. I was surprised to find the Himalayan blackberry still at peak fruiting, with many ripe berries ready to be harvested.

In fact, there were so many ripe berries all along the first mile of my hike that I barely made progress: I was so engrossed in gorging myself with fresh, yummy berries.

Himalayan Blackberry Rubus armeniacus

Between the berry picking stops I also pause to look at other interesting plants, albeit not edible. Monterey cypress are an all times favorite of mine, a lovely native tree of the mid-California coast.

Monterey Cypress

About half a mile into the hike the trail narrowed and entered a thick chaparral area. The center of the trail was a deep rut made by bikes. I could only imagine the water flowing in it  after when it rains. The sky actually looked like rain was coming soon but it was the normal blanket of coastal fog. 

Summit Loop Trail

I haven't seen much wildlife until then. There were present, I was sure of that, but they were not out and easy to spot. Except for the spiders. I saw many of the 'castle' building spiders hiding inside their structures with only their front legs poking outside to feel the web.

Spider

Being alone and not in any particular hurry I could pay attention to details around me that I wouldn't have otherwise (probably). Like the spore-making structures of the ferns along the trail. 

California coffeeberry bushes (no relation to actual coffee) dotted the trail. They too were bearing fruit. Their berries are powerful laxative that were medicinally used by the native people of the Bay Area.

California Coffeeberry, Frangula californica 

While I don't know of any medicinal (or otherwise) use of the snowberry berries, (I know they aren't edible), I do love their beautiful addition to the park's scenery. 

Snowberry

I was surprised at the vegetation richness over the relatively short distance I've walked so far. By then I was already full of blackberries and didn't stop to harvest them any more, but I did stop for any interesting plant along the way, including the only Indian paintbrush that I saw blooming that day. 

Wight's Indian Paintbrush, Castilleja wightii

I was walking downhill for nearly a mile on the Summit Loop Trail before I actually started ascending toward the summit. On the north side the trail's grade is very mild. The cloud cover was dense and nearly all my wide shots came out very dark. 

Summit Loop Trail

The close up photos did come out brighter though, showing the color of the flowers better. 

Honeysuckle 

Most wildflowers I've seen on this hike were individuals blooming out of season. The Sticky Monkeyflower however, seemed to be blooming at peak season still. There were many of them around. 

Sticky Monkeyflower, Diplacus aurantiacus 

A ray of sun would occasionally break through the thick clouds, and little fence lizards were taking the opportunity to gather some warmth into their bodies. I chanced on one lizard that cooperated with me as I took its photo. 

Western Fence Lizard

I was nearly alone on the trail but occasionally I did come across other hikers. While I was ascending slowly up to the summit, I was overtaken by a single trail runner who passed me at the speed of wind. After having seen some insane trail running up at Mount Whitney I developed high appreciation of the people who can do that. I settle for walking. 

Most of the mountain's vegetation was chaparral community of which the dominant bush was the coyote brush. Coyote brush is w=one of the hardiest plants I know, and is so common that I rarely feature it in my blog as an individual plant. On this hike however, I saw a number of exemplary coyote brush bushes that were very interesting, or just plain gorgeous. The white tips of this bush aren't flowers but the fluff of seeds ready to be wind-dispersed. 

Coyote Brush, Bacharis pilularis

Little song birds, sparrows mostly were twitting in the bushes well hidden from my camera. The birds that did stay out in the open were the ravens. One of them landed next to me and eyed me with interest as I walked by him. Perhaps he though I might drop a morsel or two of human food (I didn't). 

Raven

I now was high enough to have a nice view of San Francisco. BC (before COVID) I used to go there a lot, leading guided tours. Now I was satisfied looking on the city from a distance. 

View north to San Francisco

The upper part of the trail included a few switchbacks and in one of the turns I got a good view of the path I had ascended. The thin trail curved through the grayish green chaparral with an occasional Monterey cypress tree. This scenery stood in sharp contrast to the forest in the background which was all invasive eucalyptus. 

One of the interesting things about the coyote brush plants was that their stems were completely covered with lichen (of several species) and liverwort. I haven't seen that on coyote brush plants on the east bay. Not to that extent, at least. I wonder if the coastal fog was a factor here or wether there were other reasons. Either way, I liked the sight of it. To my knowledge, the lichen doesn't harm the bush at all. 

I was nearing a fenced structure off the trail and the slope was getting milder. Large bushes, many of them covered to almost choking by blackberry vines were blocking my view of the structure. I assume it's somehow connected t the antennae complex at the summit. Beneath the bushes bloomed the pearly everlasting which got its name for the inflorescence structures that remain stiff and beautiful even after the flowers have gone to seeds. 

Pearly Everlasting, Anaphalis margaritacea

The summit of San Bruno Mountain loomed darkly to the southwest. It was crowned by many antennae and I suspected that the actual summit would not be accessible because of them.  

I crossed a narrow and heavily damaged paved road that stretched from the fenced structure to the summit. The hiking trail was curving around the mountain top from the west. Looking southwest was a thick urban area that stretched all the way to the ocean. Directly below me that urban sea was interrupted by large green lawns dotted with white tombstones and old mausoleum buildings - I was looking at Colma - the city of souls, where all of San Francisco's dead were (and still are) buried. A conspiracy of ravens were playing in the wind nearby and I chose as header for this post a soulful photo of the ravens over the eternal resting fields of Colma. 

Colma

The last bit of trail leading to the summit was on exposed rocky outcrops. The wind had picked up and I huddled in my jacked and quickened my pace. As I suspected, the Summit Trail didn't go through the actual summit only close to it. The actual summit was fenced off and full of antennae. On the way there I saw one old and out of commission dish antenna that seemed very much out of place. 

I didn't spend any time at the summit. The place by itself is not very interesting. There are some really nice views from the trail near the summit though. 

View Northwest, Lake Merced

There is a road to the summit leading to the antennae there. I crossed it and continued on the Summit Trail Loop, now descending on the northeastern side of the peak.  

Yellow Yarrow, Eriophyllum confertiflorum

The trail down was much steeper and shorter. I was treated to some nice views of the East Bay, but the cloud cover was much thicker now and the wind blew hard and cold and I wanted to get down quickly. 

View Northeast

The chaparral on the east-facing slope was much lower and consisted of shrubs different from the west side chaparral. Late blooming ceanothus bushes added their sweet odor to the cold air. 

Blueblossom, Ceanothus thyrsiflorus

It was nice to see some bloom still, even this late in season. For finding flowers in fall time the coastal region of California is the the right place to go. 

Seaside Daisy, Erigeron glaucus

I descended quickly, making my way down through the chaparral and back to the lower, forested part of the mountain. 

The forest below the peak is nearly all eucalyptus. The trees were covered in English ivy vines and I found it ironic that these two highly invasive species from two far away parts of the word were having their existential conflict here on Californian soil. 

A 'forest' of poison oak was more the California theme. I love seeing poison oak, for it is a beautiful plant, but I avoid touching it, now that I know that I'm sensitive to its oils. 

I completed the Summit Loop Trail and now I had to go back to the parking area. This time I walked on the road, but I was still paying attention to the interesting sights by the road side. 

Fruit of the Italian Arum, Arum italicum 

Just before returning to the parking lot I saw the California state flower in bloom. I didn't notice them on the way to the loop trail because in the morning the flowers were still closed. Now however, they were fully open in all their golden glory.

California Poppy, Eschscholzia californica

Less than a month later I led the 4H Hiking Project on the same trail and the fog was so thick we couldn't see any of the views. I would love to go bak and hike that trail in the spring, it should be really nice.