Friday, July 1, 2016

Around the Foundation Stone: The Mary Bowerman Trail at Mount Diablo

Pink Spineflower (Chorizanthe membranacea). May 8, 2016

Date: March 1st, 2013 and May 8, 2016
Place: Mount Diablo State Park, Walnut Creek, California
Coordinates: 37.880975, -121.917156
Length: 0.9 mile
Level: easy

The Mary Bowerman Interpretive Trail is a short an sweet trail that encircles Mount Diablo's summit. The views from there are unmatched, and the local Nature is one of the best in the Bay Area. I consider this trail a must to any Mt. Diablo visitor, and try my best to bring my visitors there.

Most of the photos in this post are from my latest hike there last May. It was overcast most of the time, and very windy. The bloom, however, was no less than spectacular.
Three years ago I took my good friend Anenet to this trail. It was a sunny March day and we had a fabulous time. I include some of my photos from that hike as well, as they show the great views that can be seen from the mountain top on a clear day.

Going clock-wise, the trail begins with a nice, wide trail under a canopy of small live oaks. Being on the north-facing slope, that trail segment is the most vegetation-covered.
California Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia). May 8, 2016
Right away I noticed the red flowers that bloomed in the spaces between the trees - the Canyon Larkspur. Clearly they like the cooler side of the mountain because they were completely absent from the rest of the trail.
Canyon Larkspur (Delphinium nudicaule).May 8, 2016
A mule ear-looking plant bloomed on the slope next to the larkspur. I didn't think much of it at first but I photographed it anyway. The bright yellow bloom stood out beautifully against the dark background and in the company of the red larkspur.
Later on, as I was identifying the plants I documented that day, I realized this was an endemic plant - one that grows only in that region, and even named after it: the Mount Diablo Helianthella.
Mount Diablo Helianthella (Helianthella castanea). May 8, 2016
Poison Oak and is a common companion of the live oak and sure enough, it was present there en-force. It makes a nice background for the festive silver leaf lupine.
Silver Bush Lupine (Lupinus albifrons). May 8, 2016
Mount Diablo has that 'volcano look' but is not a volcano. In fact, the rocks there are real melange of origins and geological times and phenomenons. I tried to follow some of the descriptions offered on posted signs but couldn't keep up. Either way, Diablo's rock formations, whenever uncovered by vegetation, are beautiful.
Pine (Coulter?). May 8, 2016
The north side of the trail is a nice path, partially paved and partially boardwalk. A wide place of the boardwalk has an observation deck and benches. A good place to appreciate the view whenever it is clear.
View to the northeast, March 2013
On my last May hike, however, it wasn't clear so I had to settle with a short range view.
Yellow-flowering bushes covered the slope, giving it a happy, fresh appearance despite the fog cover.
Interior Goldenbush (Ericameria linearfolia), May 8, 2016
A short distance down the trail from the observation deck there is another viewing platform, this time on the solid ground, and equipped with a coin-operated telescope.  The view from that point can be quite spectacular, and on clear days it is possible to see the white tops of the Sierra Nevada high peak (Lats photo).
Another, much closer peak, seen from there is Eagle Peak - the second highest in Mt. Diablo State Park. It, too, wasn't visible on the foggy May 8th.
Eagle Peak, March 2013
Because of the fog, my attention on that hike was reserved 100% to ground level wildflowers. 
Plactritis sp. May 8, 2016
Moving on to the eastern slope of the mountain the serpentine rock changes into the sedimentary chert. Many small plants find their home in the rock crevices.
Sickle-leaved Onion (Allium falcifolium). May 8, 2016
Along the eastern ark of the Marty Bowerman Interpretive Trail the vegetation becomes chapparal and then thins out on the way south. The rock foundation becomes exposed areas of serpentinite - the California State Rock.
There, near the southern tip of the loop trail, there is a patch of gravel-covered rock that is bare of trees and bushes but in season is covered with pretty geophyte and annual wildflowers. Of these the bitter root is probably the most noticable.
Bitter Root (Lewisia rediviva). May 8, 2016
Of the annuals the serpentine springbeauty is the one that stands out, bright pink color against the reddish-gray stones.
Serpentine Springbeauty (Claytonia exigua), May 8 2016
Mount Diablo is of the highest peaks in the Bay Area. Some winters it even gets some snow. When that happens Papa Quail and I get the chikas in the car and head out to the state park and up the narrow mountain road only to stand for a long hour in a traffic jam with all the other Bay Area residents who had the very same idea as us. Last time this had happened we turned around and went back home to schedule a trip to the Sierra Nevada mountains.
The last of the Snow: March 2013
At the southern tip of that trail there's a large buttress of chert - a sediment rock. The trail doesn't go there but that doesn't stop many hikers from climbing up there and feel on top of the world.
March 2013
On my May hike there was no snow, but the mountain was green and shrouded with fog.
We turned the southern tip of the trail and started back north on the western ark of the loop.
May 8, 2016
Exposed masses of red chert, the thin sediment layers twisted by past quakes.
Chert Rock,  March 2013,
The western ark of the trail is exposed to the sunlight (when it isn't overcast or foggy) - not a place one expects to see ferns. But ferns do grow there. A species of fern that has evolved to withstand drier conditions than other ferns can.
Coffee Fern (Pallaea andromedifolia). May 8, 2016
It was on the exposed chert where the beautiful rock cress grows. The plants I've seen last May had barely one or two flowers open, so I post the photo I took on March of 2013 of this plant at the same place.
Brewer's Rock Cress (Boechera breweri), March 2013
The rock cress has succulent leaves, evolved for drier conditions like the higher southwestern side of Mount Diablo. A different adaptation is seen with the Jepson's Morning Glory hair-covered leaves: protection against water loss and a mechanism to catch collect the fog droplets and direct them to the ground.
Jepson's Morning Glory (Calystegia malacophylla ssp. pedicellata). May 8, 2016
I don't know how often it rains up there, but I'm pretty sure that fog is a common occurrence. The ability to utilize fog as a source of water is characteristic of many Northern California coastal plants.

When the Spaniards moved into Alta California they built a chain of missions and presidios along the coast and they forced the Native Californians into the missions to convert them and use them as slave labor. Many of them tried escaping but very few succeeded, as the Spaniards were on horse back and armed. One band of Native Californians, however, managed to escape the grounds of Mission San Jose (Fremont) and got as far as Suisan Bay by nightfall when the chasing platoon caught up with them.  The Spaniards surrounded the fugitives and waited until morning to snare them, but during the night the Indians had slipped away through the thicket and disappeared to freedom. Returning empty handed, the Spaniard captain announced that the Indians had been helped by the devil, escaping through the devilish thicket or, 'Monte el Diablo'. When English-speaking settlers arrived the name transferred to the nearby mountain and stuck.
View southwest, May 8, 2016
My friends and I progressed to the north. The fog was slowly lifting and every now and then we got some rays of sunshine breaking through.
Serpentine Bedstraw (Galium andrewsii ssp. gatense). May 8, 2016
The sunshine pulled the butterflies to the open. Not many, but a few fluttered among the flowers.
Western Pygmy Blue, May 8, 2016
I too, was enjoying the flowers. It was good to see the mountain so green and colorful after the long, dry drought years.
Owl's Clover (Castilleja exserta). May 8, 2016
Many of the thistles growing in the Bay Area are exotic and invasive - brought over from the old world with the European settlers. They are very beautiful, and although some are good to eat, I usually pass them by, not granting them too much attention. Along the western ark of the Mary Bowman Trail grows the native cobwebby thistle. There were several open inflorescences in a patch I saw but I chose to post here the unopened bud, showing the 'cobwebs'.
Cobweb Thistle ( Cirsium occidentale). May 8, 2016
Further up the trail I saw the beautiful broomrape flowers. Living off roots of other plants this parasite grows above ground only on flowering time.
Clustered Broomrape (Orobanche fasciculata). May 8, 2016
The northwestern side of the peak had suffered a large wildfire a while back. The trail charred remains of the chaparral.

Being a sort of isolated high peak, Mount Diablo is a kind of an ecological 'island' and is home to a number of plant species that are unique to this park. Some are named after it. The most famous of them is the Mt. Diablo Globe Lily that we had seen at Mitchell Canyon earlier on that day, but there are others, too, like this humble phacelia that grows near the summit.
Mt. Diablo Phacelia (Phacelia phacelioides). May 8, 2016
After some struggle the fog cleared altogether and the sunlight washed the slopes and brightened everything around. 
Chaparral is a hardy community, evolved to thrive in fire-ridden zones. These bushes that had been burned to the ground by the fire were now recovering well, growing lush and strong from their underground root crowns.

Underneath the burnt-renewed chaparral were dense patches of wildflowers. In this part of the trail - chia.
Chia

And not only small wildflowers were blooming - also a few height-reaching plants that towered above our heads. 
Golden Ear-drops (Dicentra chrysantha). May 8, 2016


All and all it was much greener there on my May 2016 hike than on my March 2013 hike. The boon of the long rainy season we've had this year. 
Coulter Pine (Pinus coulteri)
Several cultures around the world hold a belief that the world was created beginning with a solid grain or rock, a "Foundation Stone", that appeared first in the chaos. Needless to say, there's no agreement about the earthly location of this foundation stone. For the Bay Miwok the grain around which the wold was created is the summit of Tuyshtak: Mt. Diablo's original name.
Today the foundation stone of the Bay Miwok's world can be seen inside the little visitor center that now house what used to be an airplane beacon.
Be humble when visiting, as it is a holy site.
The visitor center at Mt. Diablo's summit

The museum has a flat roof with an observation deck with telescopes. past-times air was much cleaner before the era of industry and pollution. Mount Diablo's summit had a direct view far and wide. But even today, on clear days, one can see all the way to the grand, white peaks of the Sierra Nevada. 
Snowy Peaks of the Sierra Nevada, view from Mount Diablo, March 2013





Friday, June 17, 2016

The True Treasures of Bodie

Date: May 30, 2016
Place: Bodie Hills, Bridgeport, California
Coordinates: 38.194218, -119.050138
Length: about 1.8 miles
Level: moderate

We left Bodie State Historic Park without seeing a sage grouse. The attendant at the park's gate informed us that these grouse are very shy and skittish and that we can't expect to see them in mid-day with all the people about. He instructed us to come back late in the evening or very early in the morning. "They come out to the road," he said.
We did go back that evening. The park was closed but we hanged around on the dirt road that leads to the park and strained our eyes for naught.
We agreed to return to the area on the morrow. While sighting a sage grouse was highest on our wish list, I had another perfectly good reason to go back there: the wildflowers I had seen on our visit to the park had left me with a strong taste for more.
Getting there at first light was out of the question. I did toy with the idea of waking up at 5 am and getting the chikas into the car still in pajamas and sleeping bags, but Papa Quail got me off it pretty quickly. We would be driving home after that and it would be too much for one day.

We still had our hopes to see sage grouse. We drove past the paved road and onto the dirt road that leads to the state park. We selected a dale that seemed accessible and parked the car on a gravel pullout.
No name creek
The chikas sat on the curb to put on their hiking shoes and a little excitement broke when they discovered a small scorpion that was heading toward little chika's shoe, looking for a refuge from the open sunlight. Little chike hastily pulled away and elder chika suggested capturing the creature, an idea I got her off of quickly although I used to do exactly that as a young chika myself.
Scorpion
The shunned scorpion dug itself into the ground and we begun walking down into the dale.
The hills near the park are covered with low sagebrush scrub. On first glance it looked like nothing was in bloom. That impression had changed within the first few steps into the dale when I saw the first wildflower - a bunch of intensely purple penstemons.
Meadow Penstemon (Penstemon rydbergii) 
There were many birds around, most of them blackbirds. Very common, but pretty nonetheless.
Brewer's Blackbird, female
Most violets I've seen in California are yellow. At Bodie Hills I finally saw a violet species that justifies its name. 
Northern Bog Violet (Viola nephrophylla)
Thick grass covered the creek bed and we soon discovered that it covered deep, watery mud. What looked from afar an easy, grassy hike turned out to be a slushy, muddy affair.
Our natural reaction was to go on  the hillside where the ground was dry. If that was good enough for the squirrels ...
Least Chipmunk
But there was no proper trail on the hill. There were a few narrow paths suggesting that people have passed through before us, but no actual trail with a clear path for us to walk on.Soon we were pushing through the thorny scrub and rubbing against rocks. I had kept my eyes down for the ground had many little wildflowers blooming under the bushes and boulders' shade.
Popcorn Flower (Cryptantha sp.) 
Eventually going through the scrub on the hill became too challenging so I went back down to the creek, trying to walk on the edge between water and slope.
I soon got another affirmation that my so called water proof shoes were only water proof from the inside out. I also found many lovely flowers that didn't mind the water the least bit. On the contrary.
Toad Lily (Montia chamissoi)
Papa Quail and the chikas continued struggling through the scrub up on the slope and Papa Quail started to make sounds of unenjoyment that bordered on  hopelessness. I was hopping the habitat seam, looking out or rather, down) for more wildflowers and trying to keep more water from getting into my shoes.
Low Phacelia (Phacelia humilis var. humilis)
At some point Papa Quail stopped progressing. he was focused on a little dot far away on some rock.
For ever so long the green tailed towhee was at the top of Papa Quail's desires, having seen floating glimpses of it here and there but up until that morning it has always evaded photo opportunities. Now it was a prime opportunity :-)
Green-tailed Towhee with nesting material
After that Papa Quail gave in to the scrub and joined the chikas who were already treading the creek bed, hopping from one side of the little brook to another, trying to avid getting wet.
A willow at a strategic place. 
After some more time of negotiating the non-existent path we came upon a place where the water went underground and the slopes were much milder. Papa Quail announced that we had walked a mile and that it was time to turn back if we wanted to make it home at a reasonable hour.
A bright, red spot beckoned me from the slope. Papa Quail had seen it too and pointed it out to me. I knew that it must be an Indian paintbrush shrub and I said I was going to go there to get a good close-up shot of the plant.
So Papa Quail and the chikas sat down to rest and I clambered uphill through the scrub.

It took me a long time to get there, and not because the way was particularly challenging. It's just that there were too many pretty plants in bloom on the way, all of which so close to the ground that they were invisible to me from the creek below.
Humboldt River Milkvetch (Astragalus iodanthus)
Many of these wildflowers were completely new to me. They were also very small. I spent a lot of time on my knees trying to get decent shots.
Curvepod Milkvetch (Astragalus curvicarpus)
My solo hike uphill was a series of hops from one colorful cushion to another, with an occasional halt to remove all the thorns that got into my socks.
Cushion Phlox (Phlox pulvinata)
Fellow members of the California Native Plants Society call it 'Belly Botany'. It means having to lay down on the ground to get level with the plant. If I didn't do that it was only because there was no space there to lie down. Still, I managed to get quit low.
Brewer's Navarretia (Navarretia breweri)
The slope does add the advantage that every now an then a flower of interest is found level with my eyes simply because it's a bit uphill from where I stand.
Suksdorf's Monkeyflower (Mimulus suksdorfii)
Either way, I was making a very slow progress. Every now and then I looked to the creek below, but the chikas and Papa Quail were already out of sight.
I increased my pace.
Blue-eyed Mary (Collinsia sp.)
When I finally made it to the red spot I found that it was indeed an Indian Paintbrush, of a species I met (in bloom) for the first time merely two days before near the Travertine Hot Springs. It was as spectacular sight indeed: such an intense color!
Desert Paintbrush (Castilleja chromosa)
But my most surprising find was next to the bright-colored chromosa. It was another Indian Paintbrush, but cream-colored rather than red. It didn't stand out at all and blended shyly in the background. I thought at first that it was and albino version of the red species but no - it is a different species altogether. Needless to say, it was my first time seeing one.
Parrothed Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja pilosa)
I made it back to the creek bed. Papa Quail gathered the chikas and was ready to go but I pouted and sat down to eat. Eventually Papa Quail did start back with the chikas, leaving me to finish my snack and look forlornly at the downstream part of the creek that I wouldn't get to explore that day.

Eventually I got on my feet and followed my family up the creek. On my way I came across dish-like leaf rosettes, many of which had a dandelion blooming on their side. The dish-like plants are the native dinnerplate thistles. The dandelions are immigrant weeds.
Dinnerplate Thistle (Cirsium scariosum var. americanum) with non-native common dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
On the way back I got the chanch to explore more closely the willow that was growing in the middle of the creek. I was not able to determine the species, however.
Willow (Salix sp.)
Looking closely I saw another bush growing inside the willow: a golden currant that was in full bloom.
Golden Currant (Ribes aureum)
Papa Quail was tracking some birds on the slope and the chikas were waiting for me in the puny mid-day shade cast by the willow. Upon seeing me they got up and started up the creek again.
After some walking I noticed a shallow cave up on the hill and I informed Papa Quail that I was going up there to explore who might be living there. On the way up I came upon many little beauties, like this dwarf monkeyflower.
Skunky Monkeyflower (Mimulus nanus var. mephiticus)
There were two subspecies of it blooming around, each more beautiful than the other.
Dwarf Purple Monkeyflower (Mimulus nanus)
It was the west-facing slope and there were so many little flowers there that I had a very slow time going up, doing my best not to step on any of them.
Small-flowered Blazingstaer (Mentzelia albicaulis)
The cave itself turned to be a bit of a disappointment: campfire leftovers left no doubt that the latest inhabitant of that rock cavity was of the species Homo sapiens.
The space in front of the cave, however, was carpeted by a species of Phacelia that I had never seen before: the beautiful and delicate Twocolor Phacelia.
Twocolor Phacelia (Phacelia bicolor)
Papa Quail called from below and I stepped down grudgingly. I really didn't want to leave the place as it seemed to me that I had only been scraping the surface, as far as wildflowers were considered.
Nevada Gilia (Gilia brecciarum)
But Papa Quail was right: our progress was very slow (we were treading as lightly as we could) and time was running out for us. So off we went up the creek once more.

Once we stopped worrying about wetting our shoes we were making a faster progress on our way back. I was striding at the tail of my family, stopping now only infrequently for a quick shot here and there. Like these nice-looking old iris fruits that dotted the wider segments of the creek bed.

Eventually we got back to the dale we had started at. Papa Quail and the chikas headed directly to the car and started changing their shoes. I took my time and enjoyed the views.
Sagebrush (Artemisia cana)
This creek does not extend uphill on the other side of the road: it begins south of the road where the water seeps out of the ground in a shallow spring that gives life to everything below it. 
I went up to the car in slow unwilling steps, the soil turning drier under my feet and the lush grass remaining behind. Stooping to say a last goodbye to one of the tiny residents of the Bodie Hills Sagebrush I got into the car and we drove off.
Purple Mat (Nama densum)
On our way to Bodie State Historic Park the day before I saw much bloom by the road side. Now I had the opportunity for a few quick stops to capture the sights.
Sulphur Buckwheat (Eriogonum umbellatum)
I was interested in one plant in particular: a large bush near the road that looked so pink that based on the quick glimpse from the moving car I wasn't sure if that was a natural bloom. It was, however, natural and also very fragrant. The sweet, heavy smell of the rose family.
Desert Peach (Prunus andersonii)
It was a busy weekend in Bodie, but on occasions the road cleared for a few moments. As we were gliding back down toward Hwy 395 and Bridgeport we caught the sight of the Sierra Nevada range with all its majestic glory.
Mount Dunderberg
We did not see any sage grouse, but botanically speaking this trip was a mind-blowing success: we got so see so much bloom and nearly all of it was new to us. And we got a taste of an area that clearly has many more natural treasures for us to discover.
We will be back.