Going Underground: Exploring the Mojave Lava Cave

Mojave Lava Tube

 

Date: December 29, 2021

Place: Mojave National Preserve, Baker California

Coordinates: 35.214412, -115.753402

Length: less than a mile

Level: easy, flashlights recommended. 

Our 2021 winter break, the one that we planned to spend in Crescent City but changed at the last minute because of heavy storms forecast, was split between the Lake Havasu City area and the Mojave Desert National Preserve. 

It has been a while since we hiked at the Mojave Preserve and we felt it was a good time to experience some more of this beautiful area.I had with me a book with recommended hiking trails in the preserve and I marked to myself those trails that would fit our current visit. One of the places that I out down for us to visit was the lava tube that is located in a central place in the preserve, yet we've never before stopped there to check it out. 

Creosote, Larrea tridentata

We were staying near Needles at the time so it took us about an hour and a half to drive to the cave. On the way we crossed a high plateau between peaks and I got very excited when I saw snow on those peaks. When I saw the Joshua trees in the snow I just had to pull over and go outside to take photos. Everybody else also exited the car and we spend a good time just walking around and enjoying the snow-adorned desert.

Joshua Tree, Yucca brevifolia 

We stopped briefly at the Kelso Visitor Center and found it closed so we continued on directly to the lava cave. To get there we turned right on a wide dirt road and headed toward a group of volcanic buttes north of us. 

I don't have a good wide shot that shows how many volcanic buttes are concentrated in that area. I counted about 30 of them on the relief map below. I do wish one day to go there and do a more in-depth exploration of that area. There's no need or restriction to remain on trail there (there aren't that many of them anyway). One can simply walk out into the wilderness and check it out.

Relief map of the Mojave Lava Tube area.

The last mile of our drive was on a rugged and rocky unpaved 'road' which I guess is passable also to 2WD vehicles because I did see one such car in the parking area. There were several wilderness campers along the way and I looked at them with longing.

Our hike as captured by my GPS

The trail was merely a continuation of that road, except much more rugged. Even if our car could have passed there, there was no need to risk it.

The plants near the trail didn't show any signs of spring. I didn't expect any - it was very very cold still. I was satisfied at being able to identify most of them without any bloom.

Cottontop Cactus, Echinocactos polycephalus

There weren't any Joshua trees near the cave. The tallest plants around were yucca, and even they were few and far between.

Banana Yucca, Yucca baccata

There was recent precipitation, we already knew that from driving through the snowy plateau. There were some puddles on the trail and as we stepped sideways to circumvent them we noticed that they were all frozen over.

The lava tube is underneath a little volcano butte and the trail to get there is short. I couldn't believe how short it was so I didn't pay attention, and while I blinked, I missed the turn to the butte. We therefore continued about a third of a mile  north before realizing that we overshot our turn and needed to backtrack some.

Another butte

I wasn't upset about the extra walk - we were in a beautiful area and we also got to see the only wildlife on this hike - an American kestrel hovering in the sky, hoping to get lucky.

American Kestrel

The way to the cave's opening was a narrow foot path that diverged from the very graded road we were on. It ascends in a mild slope towards the entrance. As we approached I could hear other people underground, below me.

Beavertail, Opuntia basilaris

Pappa Quail and the chika went up ahead of me while I paused to look at pretty things along the way. Lichen fascinate me, and they are a common sight, but nice lush moss cushions are a less common sight in the desert. That patch of moss was well hidden in the shaded, north-facing side of the rock.

The voices from underground intensified. There was a hole in the ground left of the path where the voices were coming from. It was dark inside and I couldn't see anyone, but I heard at least 3 people there, two if them children.

When we reached the cave's opening the people that were in there were in the process of getting out so we waited for them to clear the path. Meanwhile I looked up and saw that the trail continued up the butte. The thought of going up there after the cave visit did cross my mind, but I had already planned another hike for us after the cave.

Beyond the butte at the base of which we stood was another butte and we were looking on its north-facing slope which was covered with snow. I imagined stretching my arm all the way and touching it.

The family with the kids were out of the cave and we started going down ourselves. We had two flashlights and one small reading light. I gave them all to Pappa Quail and the chikas and used my phone light to illuminate my way.

To be honest, I don't think a flashlight is really necessary there. There are  a couple of holes in the cave's ceiling that let in enough light to see, once the eyes get used to the dimness. The flashlights however, do allow to see the nuances and the more delicate features of the the cave, such as the solidified lava drips that protrude from the ceiling like tiny stalactites.

Unlike the Subway Cave, the Mojave Lava Tube isn't accessible from both side and has only one opening for entering and exiting. It is also pretty short - just two small 'rooms' connected by a short underpass that requires bending to go through. There was a dark hole at the end of the cave and perhaps I could have crawled into it but I chose not to do that. Instead we looked around some more, then turned back and went outside.

On our was back to the car I kept looking around, gazing wistfully at the other buttes. This entire area was like a candy store that we were allowed only a brief visit in.

Perhaps I could have convinced the others to continue exploring the buttes but the chikas had their own ideas, mainly concerning something like 'lunchtime'. So we drove back to the Kelso Visitor Center (which was closed still) to have a picnic before going to explore the lava beds area in the park.