Looking for A Feathered Treasure on the South Fork Cave Creek at Chiricauha Mountains

Elegant Trogon, female

 

Date: April 17, 2022

Place: Cave Creek Canyon at Chiricahua Mountains, Coronado National Forest, Arizona

Coordinates: 31.883094, -109.174981

Length: 3.6 miles in and out

Level: easy

Our last spring break vacation to south Arizona was all planned by Pappa Quail, and was almost completely focused on birds and birding. It was a very successful trip, both birding-wise and other aspects, hiking as well. I posted here about the last hike we did on that trip to Marshall Gulch near Tucson, where my family borders have finally sighted the elusive red-faced warbler. Here I post about the first hike we did on that trip, one where I too had a hand in its success. 

The Chiricahua Mountains in southeast Arizona is a northern extension of a mountain range in Mexico and every spring birds migrate there from the south, and for some of the species this is their north-most boundary and just about the only place in the United States where these birds can be seen. On the eastern side of the Chiricahua Mountains there a year-round flowing stream called Cave Creek, a stream that feeds a beautiful oasis used by people and animals alike. Every springtime, borders from all around the nation flock to Cave Creek Canyon, which is part of the Coronado National Forest, to observe the migrant birds, and this year so did we. 

Cave Creek Canyon

Our first stop was at the visitor center, and we stayed there for a long time because the docents placed numerous hummingbird feeders around the grounds and many of these hummingbirds were of species we've never seen before. We also had a very productive chat with the docents and the resident ranger who told us where to go and what to see. Following their advice we chose to hike the Cave Creek South Fork that morning. The ranger also did me a great favor. This was to be the first major hiking trip after I broke a bone in my foot and when she heard that I forgot my hiking poles in the lodge where we stayed and lended me her own for the day's hike. 

The Elegant Trogon bird was not on Pappa Quail's realistic 'wanna see' list because he didn't think we had any chance of seeing any. The docents however, told us that trogons have been sighted regularly every morning on the past few days near the wilderness trailhead at the Cave Creek south fork. 

Fearing we won't find parking we didn't drive all the way to the trailhead but parked in a pullout at the junction of the Cave Creek Canyon road with south fork dirt road and started walking from there along the wide dirt road. 

South Fork Road

We were walking inside a wide canyon but the cliffs on the side were only partially visible because to the tall trees that grew at the canyon floor along the creek and the dirt road. What we did see is what I believe to be the reason this place was called 'Cave Creek'. 

While I was appreciating he cliffs my family birders were all excited about the birds around us. Being so far away from the usual habitat haunts, many of these birds were 'lifers' (first time sighting) for us.

 Painted Redstart

Even already familiar birds were exciting to see. This was after all, a birding hike.

Brown Creeper

A quarter mile into the hike the elder chika's camera battery run out. Dismayed that she didn't check the battery before heading out but thankful this happened not too far from where we parked, she went back to the car with Pappa Quail to replace the battery. Meanwhile the young chika and I stepped down to the creek to wait for them near the water.

South Fork Cave Creek

It was spring time - but the wildflowers display on this hike was very disappointing. I don't know if that was because of the drought year or perhaps because we were off bloom season, but I honestly expected to see more bloom than we actually did. Near the creek however, I did see some flowers.

Yellow Monkeyflower, Erythranthe sp.

Pappa Quail and the elder chika returned with fully charged cameras and we resumed our hike along the dirt road. Every now and then a car would drive by us, either in or out. Most drivers were considerate and drove slowly, but there were a few that sped by and raised quite a lot of dust.

There were more little birds in the trees along the trail. It was spring time for them, all right. They were very active and very noisy, and for the most part they did cooperate with the cameras.

Black-throated Gray Warbler

At some point my chikas called me with excitement, saying that they found poison oak. Now, poison oak is definitely a west coast plant, not expected to be found in southeast Arizona. The plant they found however, is its infamous relative - the Poison Ivy, which should also be avoided for the same reasons. This was confirmed by other people we saw along the trail.

Western Poison Ivy, Toxicodendron rydbergii

As we got close to the wilderness trailhead we started seeing more and more birders, easily recognizable by their binoculars and big lens cameras, and the wistful expression on their faces. Also by the way they were scanning the trees. Not surprisingly, when we reached the wilderness trailhead after crossing a short metal bridge that brought us to the north side of the creek, we saw the little parking area there full.

We didn't see the trogon bird but I did notice some cottontop cacti blooming way up the cliff walls. They were so high than even Pappa Quail's strongest zoom showed the flowers as tiny red dots.

Cottontop Cacti

Thankfully there were flowers blooming much closer to the trail.

Chiricahua Mountains Mock Verbena, Glandularia chiricahensis

Right at the trailhead, leaning against the rock was a desert mallow with a single flower open. To get a good photo I would have to ask someone else to hold to away from the rock but when I looked up the rest of my family had already gone up the trail so I sighed and followed them.

I caught up with my family a bit into the trail where Pappa Quail and the elder chika were busy stalking a little bird in the tree. Passer by birders told them it was a plumbeous vireo but after pouring over the photos at home Pappa Quail decided it was a different vireo species.

Mexican Hutton's Vireo

The trail followed the creek and whenever we got close enough it looked as if the creek was dry, or perhaps running underneath the pebbles. Apparently still early in spring, the broad-leaf trees were in their budding stage, with fresh, very light green foliage that looked so bright and lovely against the dark green of the evergreen conifers.

South Fork Cave Creek

We didn't see too many birds on that part of the trail though, but there were a few more wildflowers to see.

We passed a large wooden sign announcing that we were entering the Chiricahua Wilderness and should not be using any motorized vehicles, hang gliders and bicycles. Shortly after that we reached the point where the trail crossed the creek and continued up the mountains into to the wilderness. The creek, which looked dry from above, actually had a trickle running above ground and a few small water holes near the south bank. We stopped for a break and after a short discussion we decided to make it our turn around point.

A few ceanothus bushes in full bloom were adding their sweet fragrance to the desert air.

Ceanothus sp.

On the way back we had a clearer view of the pretty cliffs towering over the creak. It was a nice preview to the outstanding formations we would see two days later at the Chiricahua Mountains National Monument on the west side of the range.

The day was getting hot and on the way back we found a shaded clearing that I think is used as a wilderness camp site, and stopped for a short breather. It didn't take long for the elder chika to notice a deer in the bushes on the side. The deer didn't seem phased by our presence. She looked at us briefly, then continued to munch along, slowly making her way further away.

White-tailed Deer

We were nearing the trailhead, and there again, was no sign of any water in the creek. I knew now for sure that there was water in the creek, only down, below the pebbles. Only a short distance downstream the water will be visible above ground once more.

South Fork Cave Creek

I think of myself as fairly keen-sighted when it comes to detecting unusual things along the trail. I therefore cannot explain how did I miss this unusual plant on the way in, seeing it only on the way out. Similar to the snow plant I know fro California, this is a parasitic plan that grows underground without photosynthesis, living on tree roots, and coming above ground only to flower.

American Cancer Root, Conopholis americana

Another unusual thing I saw was this pine tree that seemed to grow into a rock. I'm not sure how to explain that.

And I also found an elephant! Yes, a rock one, but an elephant nonetheless. Or perhaps it was an heffalump?

'Elephant' Rock

When we reached the trailhead I once again found myself alone behind everyone else so I stooped and held the blooming desert mallow myself and with my other hand held the heavy camera as stable as I could. I think it worked.

Desert Mallow

When I raised my head from the mallow I noticed a colorful bird sitting on a tree branch that was hanging right above the dry creek bed. Was that the trogon? I exclaimed and pointed to the bird. Pappa Quail and the elder chika were close by but their camera's were trained on a deer that stood below the tree. They didn't notice the bird at all. When I called to them they looked up just in time to see the bird fly away. It didn't fly too far though, but it settled deep inside a tree. They managed to get a few photos through the thicket. Yes, it was a male elegant trogon. Definitely a lifer, and one we didn't expect to see. And I was the first of my family to see it.

Elegant Trogon, male

The trogon soon disappeared from sight. By then we all forgot that we were hot and tired and when other birders told us that two other trogons were seen near the bridge. We made our way there but didn't see them. I was reassured again that the creek was indeed running above ground again.

South Fork Cave Creek

A short distance downstream from there we came upon an aggregation of birders. Word was that the trogon was seen there the latest so I suggested to the Pappa Quail and the elder chika that they stay there and keep searching for the bird while I walk down to the road and bring the car. The young chika, who isn't into birding felt too hot and chose to stay with them.

Birders

So I walked alone down the dirt road. I walked briskly, but I did stop now and then to take photos of the few wildflowers that did bloom by the road side.

Not all of these flowers I was able to identify although some look really similar to plants I know from California.

When I returned with the car to pick my family up from the birding spot they informed me that they were not successful in seeing the trogon again. We went on to have lunch and coffee at the store of the nearby research institute and then continued up the mountain to check out the higher elevation views and birds. Some times during the rest of the day I suggested that we return to the bridge first thing tomorrow morning, looking for that elusive trogon once more. And so we did - on the following morning we drove straight away to the small parking area near the wilderness trailhead, where we parked in the last available spot. Almost immediately I spotted a colorful bird near where I saw the trogon yesterday, and exclaimed with excitement. Well ... that bird turned out to be an American robin, one of the most common birds there are.

American Robin

Embarrassed, I sat near the creek and appreciated the view while Pappa Quail and the elder chika kept searching for the trogon. The younger chika first joined them but after a short time she returned and went to sit in the car and listen to music.

I found interest in pretty spider webs. In the background I heard the calls of the trogon (which sound like a small dog barking) and my excited chika dove into the woods in search of the bird.

Finally! Eureka! I heard her call Pappa Quail and he followed her. The had found the male trogon. It sure is a lovely bird!

Elegant Trogon, male

They also found a Mexican jay. While not as exciting as the trogon, it too was a lifer for us.

Mexican Jay

Following their success in the woods Pappa Quail and the elder chika went to the bridge in search of the other trogons that they were told were around the area and they returned triumphant - they had found the female trogon as well. Her photo is heading this blog post. 

Happy with our morning success we drove off, going an a bird feeder round in the local birding-supporter farms and resorts. We finished that day with another venture to the top of the mountain where my family birders had a whopping success yesterday. On those hikes I'll write in the next post.