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| Seven Falls |
Dare: April 26, 2022
Place: Bear Canyon, Tucson, Arizona
Coordinates: 32.309949, -110.822283
Length: 7.5 miles
Level: moderate
Thirty years ago, when Pappa Quail and me lived in Wisconsin, Pappa Quail got to attend a week-long conference in Tucson. It was in the later part of May and I joined him for the weekend before the conference begun. We did a lot of sight-seeing around the city, and also did a very memorable hike at Sabino Canyon, in the Catalina Mountains north of Tucson. On
our trip to Southern Arizona last year we spent a few days in the Tucson area. While most of the days we focused on birding, we did want to include some hiking as well, and it was Pappa Quail's idea to hike Sabino Canyon again, this time with the chikas. When we arrived at the Sabino Canyon Recreation Area however, we discovered that that trail was closed due to maintenance work. The alternative was to hike Bear Canyon, the next trail over, so that was the hike we did.
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| Our hike as captured by my GPS |
We took a shuttle to the trailhead, which was about 2 miles away and uphill from the visitor center. We were warned that if we wanted to ride back on the shuttle we should be back at the trailhead by 4 pm. Pappa Quail looked at his watch and shook his head. We had a late start and the chance we'd make it on time was very small. Either way, we were not turning back now.
We had a slow start on the trail because there was much to see right there by the trailhead. There were many wildflowers, including blooming cacti.
The ocotillo I was very familiar with already from the California deserts, but the combination with the huge Saguaro cacti was something else.
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| Saguaro, Carnegiae gigantea, and Ocotillo, Fouquieria splendens |
The Sabino Canyon Recreation Area is managed by the Coronado National Forest. Most of that forest is of saguaro cacti, the most impressive cacti ever. The entire foothills of the Catalina Mountains was covered with a saguaro forest.
No saguaro was blooming, but many other plans were. The 2022 winter was very dry in Arizona as well an I can only imagine how much bloom there was there this year.
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| Bear Canyon Trail |
After some walking I could divert my attention from the saguaro to other cacti. Cholla is another member that family with many representative species in California.
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| Cholla, Cylindropuntia sp. |
The trail, which started wide and easy, quickly narrowed down and became bumpy with rocks. Not very long into the hike I found myself at the usual place for me in our family hikes - bringing up the rear.
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| Bear Canyon Trail |
The trail neared the creek, which was running with a mild flow. Riparian (creek) vegetation lined the narrow strip of water. A fairly strong breeze whipped the trees but I found the wind refreshing.
Of the trees lining Bear Creek, the mesquite was probably the most common. Some of them were still blooming but most have already gone to seeds.
Needless to say, I paid close attention to the trees that were blooming.
Besides the blooming trees and cacti, there was also a wide variety of herbaceous wildflowers. It was by no means a superbloom, not even close to that, but many different species of wildflowers kept me busy on that hike.
We arrived the first, and the easiest creek crossing. This one had a sort of 'bridge' to balance across. Other crossings had only a line of stones to skip on. I suppose that when the creek runs higher some wading is necessary.
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| Bear Creek Crossing |
My family moved ahead fast and often I had to run a little to catch up to them after spending a few seconds looking at wildflowers. I knew Pappa Quail still hoped to get back to the shuttle stop on time to catch the last ride, but I couldn't simply ignore what I was seeing.
Anyway, it wasn't my fault that there were more wildflowers than birds on that hike. When birds were observed, Pappa Quail and the elder chika certainly stopped for a while too.
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| Mallard, male |
On my hike at Sabino Canyon with Pappa Quail, way back when, we witnessed a duck scandal involving a wild mallard couple with one domestic duck. There was a scuffle at the end of which the wild male flew off with the domestic duck while the wild female remained behind, all alone. The mallard couple that the elder chika photographed at Bear Canyon seemed secure and unthreatened by any foreign influences.
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| Mallard, female |
One of the most beautiful desert flowers I know is the apricot mallow. I've seen it many times in the California deserts and I've seen it also on this Arizona trip, on the
south fork Cave Creek trail, in the Chiricahua Mountains. There I've only seen one of them in bloom. Here, in Bear Canyon, they were numerous, and their bloom was just past its peak.
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Apricot Mallow, Sphaeralcea ambigua
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The creek was running low and we had no problems hopping across once again, this time over a few strategically placed rocks, easily reaching the large sandbar that was exposed by the low flow.
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| Sandbar in Bear Canyon |
The old rock layers are also exposed by the creek. Not by one flow, of course, but through many many years of erosion caused by regular flow and flash floods. The saguaro cacti are happy growing there. Near the river they are green and water-plump.
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| Saguaro |
We continued quickly along the creek. Pappa Quail wasn't happy that I lingered behind but there was a lot to see there, including the familiar fuchsia that was still in bloom.
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| California Fuchsia, Epilobium canum |
The north side of the creek had much less shade cover and I started perspiring in the heat. It was sure feeling like a desert now.
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| Trail |
I caught up with my family at the next creek crossing and we all sat for a short water break. While Pappa Quail, me, and the elder chika hid in the shade of a nearby mesquite tree, the young chika dedicated her break time to playing by the water.
Soon we got going again, and it didn't take long for me to fall behind, answering the need to stop by every wildflower I saw, even if I did see them before on the hike.
But there were also those wildflowers I was seeing for the first time, not only on this hike but also in my life. "Lifers" as my family birders would call them.
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| Anemone |
In some cases I could identify the genus but the species was new to me. Wirelettuce is one of my favorite wildflowers to see on my hikes. It is very unlike other composites in its delicate, campion-like appearance. .
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Wire Lettuce, Stephanomeria sp.
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My navigator showed a trail that continued far into the Catalina Mountains.When I looked ahead I could see the forest of saguaro stretching as far as I could see. We wouldn't be going much further that day, though.
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| Bear Canyon |
Pappa Quail and the elder chika stopped to look at a bird and I took the chance to catch up with them. The bird they saw was a sparrow, but not a species that we see often in our area.
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| Black-throated Sparrow |
Not only birds got their attention. Little lizards that were enjoying the sunshine scattered as we approached but Pappa Quail got a few photos of the little, pretty reptiles.
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| Sonoran Spotted Whiptail |
We crossed the creek again to the south side. Looking at the navigator we expected the trail to go up and around to the seven waterfalls place.
Pappa Quail and the chikas weren't very happy about going uphill on a hot day but the went on because we were too close to give it up now. I wasn't thrilled about it either, but I refrained from saying anything.
As we ascended the thin and now very dry and exposed trail we got a better view of the ridge above us and the trail that continued into the high desert wilderness. I didn't see anyone walking on that trail. If there were any hikers or backpackers there, they probably have been there much, much earlier in the day.
We did get much closer however, to the wildflowers that were blooming on the dry slopes away from the creek, such as the Ocotillo.
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Ocotillo, Fouquieria splendens
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We all walked slowly on the uphill switchbacks, stopping frequently to drink and catch our breath, and to let faster hikers pass us by. I used these short breaks to take a closer look at the trail side vegetation.
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| Desert Rosemallow, Hibiscus coulteri |
Saguaro cacti were all over f course, but here, on this part of the trail, I saw one dead saguaro, its skin gone and the inner spokes exposed. Earlier that day we visited the Tucson Botanical Gardens where they also had a detailed exhibit of the traditions of the native population, the Pima Nation. They used to build their residencies with the spokes of the saguaro. Apparently these are incredibly sturdy.
While I admired the saguaro, the elder chika found more birds to focus on, and forget for a moment the heat of the day.
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| House Finch |
We reached the highest point of our trail. Below us the creek forked in two: one fork continued ahead to the east and the wilderness trail continued along with it. The second fork curved sharply to the north where it formed a lovely canyon with a series of pools and waterfalls. That place, is where we were headed.
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| Bear Canyon |
On a different occasion I might have tried climbing all the way up to the peak abve us. As it was, I looked longingly at the beautiful rock layers and the towering saguaros above before starting downhill after the rest of my family.
Pappa Quail and the elder chika galloped down the trail. The young chika needed to adjust her shoe and I stayed behind with her. When we resumed our walk the others were far below us already.
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Desert Lavender, Condea emoryi
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When we got closer to the bottom pool I saw that there were a few other people there. The sun was already going west and the cliff shadow was covering part of the pool. The upper pools and waterfalls were already covered by the shade.
We kept descending and I tried minimizing my photo stops. I did pause for a nice cochineal patch on a beavertail cactus pad. A day earlier we visited the Mission in Tucson and learned about the local red dye industry - the red dye that is produced from the cochineal bugs that grow on the cacti around the Sonora Desert.
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Cochineal on beavertail cactus
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The next pause was also because of an interesting bug - a velvet ant that the young chika found on a rock ledge near the bottom of the canyon.
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Magnificent Velvet Ant
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When I reached the bottom pool more of it was shaded. Pappa Quail was sitting in the shade already but the elder chika was preparing to take a dip in the pool. The young chika and I passed a few warm puddles that filled depressions in smooth rock on the way to the pool to join Pappa Quail in the shade.
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| Bottom Pool |
We sat by the pool for quite a while, watching other hikers come and go. Some climbed the rock up to the next pool above us. The elder chika took a dip in the water, then stretched herself on the warm rock to dry out. The younger chika wandered off to play in the warm puddles.
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Bottom pool
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From the pool I had a much better view of the waterfall. It was more a cascade than an actual fall, but it was very pretty. I think on hot summer days this might be a great place to hang, assuming one arrives there early enough before the heat, and leaves late in the afternoon.
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| Waterfall |
It was getting late for us. When the elder chika was dry enough to resume the hike we packed ourselves and started back to the trail. On the way I collected the young chika from the puddles, where she sat, watching the tadpoles wiggle at the bottom. The water in the puddles was pretty hot and I wondered how did the tadpoles not get cooked.
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| Tadpoles |
I don't think I could ever get enough photos of saguaro cacti. getting back to the main trail we had a nice view into the canyon below, and of the saguaro forest that reached all the way to the bottom.
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| Saguaro, Carnegiae gigantea |
Back on the main trail I paused to look down at the canyon's opening and view the silhouette of Mt. Wrightson way far in the south. We had 2.5 miles to get to the shuttle stop and by then we already knew we wouldn't make it to the last bus, meaning be had another mile and a half on top of that to get to the parking lot.
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| Bear Canyon |
Pappa Quail charged forward and the chikas dashed after him with renewed energies. We were on the way back now. I followed suit, resisting the temptation to pause for flowers. Most of the time, anyway.
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Beavertail Cactus, Opuntia sp. We made it quickly down to the creek level and kept on at a fast pace. Eventually it was Pappa Quail himself how called for a pause, and for a good reason - a snake crossed our path. |
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| Mountain Patch-nosed Snake |
The shadows were creeping along the canyon bottom now. It was nice whenever we walked on the shady side of the creek, but it make photographing more difficult.
The trail crosses the creek several times. Crossing it was not an issue in any of the cross points because of the low flow. On our way back the heat was less on an issue too. In fact, the temperature was really pleasant now. Besides the vegetation and the grand views I also appreciated the beautiful geology of the place, even if I didn't understand it much.
Pappa Quail and the elder chika were ahead most of our way back. The young chika remained near me, and we spend much f our walk chatting. She also pointed out things for me to see, like ant colonies that were getting more active in the later part of the day.
We were getting close to the end of the canyon. One last creek crossing and another view southeast on the saguaro-covered slopes, another look at the calm water holes and the gentle trickle of the the creek flow, and we were on the final part of the Bear Canyon trail.
Beautiful grasses adorned this part of the trail. I found out later that, sadly, this grass is an invasive species in that area.
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Natal Grass, Melinis repens, non-native, invasive.
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The cholla cacti however, were definitely local. There weren't that many of them, at least not near the trail. Touching one of these is punishable by great pain.
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Cholla Cactus
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I noticed a young woman crouching by the trail. When I approached I saw that she was digging out a small desert mallow plant. I asked here if that was ok to dig out wild plants from the place, to which she answered yes, and that she'd bring it back after she'd used it (for what, she didn't say). Bear Canyon area belongs to the Coronado National Forest, and I was not familiar with the local regulations of what is ok and not ok to remove from the wilderness so I didn't argue with her, but I did continue walking with an uneasy feeling.
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| Bear Canyon Trail |
Local nurseries do sell native plants, in pots and as seeds. Removing plants from the wilderness affects not only the plant itself but the numerous other organisms which are part of is niche and might depend on it.
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Desert Marigold, Baileya multiradiata
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Just as we exited the Bear Canyon Trail I turned around and admired the view of the mountains in the late afternoon light. I promised myself to go back there next time I'll be in Tucson.
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| Bear Canyon |
We made it to the shuttle stop about an hour after the last bus had left. We stopped for a short break to rest and hydrate. Other hikers passed us by on their way down hill and the elder chika suggested that one of use parents would go down to bring the car. I was ready to do that but Pappa Quail insisted that simply walking together that last part would be quicker. I agreed with him, and we convinced the chikas to get up and get going. It was all downhill now, and on either asphalt or on a nice, easy trail.
The elder chika ceased complaining when she saw the gila woodpecker on a nearby saguaro tree. She really wanted to see an owl in a cactus hole but the woodpecker was exciting enough.
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| Gila Woodpecker |
I, too, had much to see on the way down to the visitor center. The pink fairyduster was very common along the trail, but it's this individual that I saw near the end of the hike that shows best its 'duster'-like, feathery flowers.
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| Pink Fairy Duster, Calliandra eriophylla |
We walked fast now. Sunset was approaching, and we were tired and hungry. Still, it was lovely to pause every now and then and breathe in the beauty of the area, especially under sunset lighting.
We reached the plateau at the bottom of the Bear and Sabino Canyons. There was this wide, flat trail leading from the descent to the visitor Center. Very few people were out now. Some of these people however, were just coming up for a walk in the lower area. Most of my photos from this part of the hike didn't come out right - the light was already too low.
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Whitestem Paperflower, Psilostrophe cooperi
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I took one last shot of the trail with my elder chika way ahead of me. Pappa Quail had already cleared the curve.
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| Trail |
The elder chika did get to see a ew more interesting birds on this late part of the hike, including a juvenile verdin that perched conveniently in one of the last sunny spots left.
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| Verdin, juvenile |
The high sky was still light enough to see and identify the red-tailed hawk that was out and about, looking for his dinner.
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| Red-tailed Hawk |
We reached the now nearly empty parking lot. Although this hike started with some discord within our family, it did end up on a much higher note. This trail was lovely, and had we planned better and could use the shuttle on both directions, it wouldn't even have been too long. As it was though, it was just within our abilities to both hike and enjoy, even as a second activity that day.
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| Gila Woodpecker |
At the end of that day we were all convinced that this was our last hike on our Tucson spring break, but on the next and our last day I managed to tempt pappa Quail to go up to the heights of the Catalina Mountains to
Marshal Gulch at Mount Lemmon, where both he and the elder chika scored their last and one of the most coveted lifer birds.
