A Bittersweet Epilogue: Hiking to Paradise Meadow at Lassen Volcanic National Park

 

Paradise Meadow

 

Date: June 27, 2021

Place: Paradise Meadow, Lassen Volcanic National Park

Coordinates: 40.510163, -121.465018

Length: 3 miles

Level: moderate

 

Yesterday I achieved my long held desire of climbing Mount Shasta. On paper it was a three-days expedition (and it would have been if not for the bare conditions of the mountain). In practice, we finished the trip before noon of the third day, and that left me with the rest of the day and no plans. Despite having a room already booked in the local motel, I chose to not remain in town that day but to drive back home. I didn't want to go directly though. I was too hyped from the trip and couldn't simply switch my mind back to the mundane, so I decided to go south on the scenic route, and go through Lassen Volcanic National Park. 

It's been a year since I've been in Lassen, and two years since I hiked a new trail there. I thought it would be nice to go for a short walk on a trail I haven't hiked yet. It would have to be an easy trail, because Mount Shasta gave me 'love bites' in the form of nasty blisters on my big toes and a bruise at the base of my left large toenail, big enough to dislodge the nail. In short, I was still in much pain and couldn't walk any challenging trail. I remembered reading a recommendation of the Paradise Meadow trail at the 'I Love Lassen Volcanic National Park' page, and since it looked an easy one on the map, I chose to hike that one. 

My hike to Paradise Meadow and back as captured by my GPS

The beginning was easy enough. The trail started flat, wide, and comfortable. There were only very few people there so for the most, I had the forest almost to myself. 

At the Trailhead

My feet were hurting but not too bad. Not when I was careful to set them flat on the trail without rolling. I also walked very slowly, feeling no need to hurry, I didn't. Besides, there were plenty of wildflowers blooming along the trail. 

Narrow-flowered Lupine, Lupinus angustiflorus 

That's was the biggest difference between my hike at Shasta that morning and the hike at Lassen: despite the drought, Lassen Volcanic NP was full of wildflowers, and the Paradise Meadow trail had a very lovely bloom display. I believe that even without the bruises I'd be still going very slowly.

Crimson Columbine, Aquilegia formosa 

The slow pace did me good in one more aspect - as I mentioned before, I wasn't ready to go home just yet. After dedicating over two months of intensive training and mental focusing to the goal of summiting Mount Shasta and then spend four days away from home, three of them up on the mountain achieving my goal, I was now in anticlimax time. Doing this hike in Lassen allowed me to hold on to that feeling a while longer. I was still out in the wilderness, still in the mountains, my spirit still high. 

Shasta Penstemon, Penstemon heterodoxus var. shastensis 

In hind sight, I now know that this was my goodbye hike to the park's floral landscape. Not too long after my visit there the park, and a huge area around it, burned to ashes in the Dixie Fire, the largest in California's sad history of wildfires. Recovery would take many years, and it may not be the same again. 

Larkspur, Delphinium sp. 

The trail followed the small Paradise Creek for most of the way but not always very close to it. Where little tributaries merged in, more wetland plants were growing, such as willows cornlilies. The cornlilies were in full bloom and full of pollinators. Among all the bees and flies was a large, yellow-backed beetle, so busy gathering pollen that it didn't mind my close presence. 

California Corn Lily, Veratrum californicum var. californicum 

Right by the patch of willows I found mariposa lilies as well and got all excited about them, as I usually do. Mariposa lilies are always an fine sighting, and the tiny Sierra mariposa no less than its larger, more colorful relatives. 

Sierra Mariposa, Calochortus minimus  

Before long the trail entered the woods, and also started ascending at a mild grade. I welcomed the shade. The change of grade was manageable. 

Under the trees I found the shy pine lousewort, a forest favorite of mine. One can hardly see that it's blooming because the flowers hide under the leaves, and the plant as a whole remains flat on the ground. This time around I avoided lying on the ground to get a better view of the tiny flowers. 

Pine Woods Lousewort, Pedicularis semibarbata 

I came upon a little tributary bridged by a plank that looked unstable. The flow was very low to this time of year, indicative of the severe drought we were in. 

It was noce to look at the flowing water though, and the plank held my weight just fine. 

I'm always fascinated by spiders and the artful webs they spin. A trio of immaculate funnel webs on the ground composed a pretty image for me. The spiders I guess, don't see the big picture in this case. 

Then the trail steepened. A lot. I found that going uphill was not problematic for me but I couldn't help thinking that I will have to endure the pains of coming down that very slope. 

For a short distance the creek remained at the same level so I ended up way higher than the water. 

When the trail neared the creek once again I found a little side trail leading to it and decided that it would be nice to have a break by the water. There was a lovely corner there but I found that it was already occupied by other people. I settled for a few snapshots of the cascading creek and headed back to the main trail. 

After some more uphill walk I was once again leveled with the creek, this time without any people nearby. I enjoyed the quiet walk and the sound of flowing water, and the wildflowers, of course. 

There were butterflies about as well. Not as many as I expected, but still plenty to fill the air with floating color.

I came closer to the creek where there were other wildflower species in bloom. I sat down for a few minutes, taking in the sights and resting my aching feet.

Yellow Monkeyflower, Erythranthe gutatta 

The trail leveled and between the trees I caught glimpses of the meadow. I cleared the trees and found Paradise. (Header photo). For long minutes I stood there, breathing deeply and taking photos of the beautiful scenery.

Paradise Meadow

Eventually I detached from my standing spot and started strolling along the little creek into the meadow, looking for the the little treasures hidden in the long grass.

Large-leaved Lupine, Lupinus polyphyllus var. burkei

The creek was low and very calm, perfectly reflecting the white clouds. Here In paradise, there was no sign of the disaster that would befall it before the end of the summer.

Paradise Creek

Right by the water I found the most precious treasure yet: a scentbottle orchid. I see these frequently enough, but I'm always excited to meet a member of the wildflowers royal family. Wild orchids are a;ways special to see.

Scentbottle, Plantathera dilatata 

At the far edge of the meadow I saw a patch of deep purple composed of penstemon flowers. I didn't walk all the way there because there was no trail and I didn't want to trample the delicate meadow vegetation.

Penstemon Patch

Behind me I heard soft voices. I turned and saw a couple of elderly hikers standing at the meadow's edge, just as I did when I first saw it. I crossed back into the woods and found the main trail again without disturbing them. It was time to head back.

I went back to a place by the creek where I've seen a white monkshood inflorescence. Monkshood are usually blue, and there were many blue monkshood flowers all over the place. The white one stood out among them, the odd one out, like a beautiful and eerie ghost.

Monkshood, Aconitum columbianum 

That little corner by the creek was so perfect, I seriously considered lying down for a quick nap there. Remembering the long drive ahead however, I got back on my feet and started down the trail again.

When I have a choice I usually prefer loop trails over in and out ones. I don't mind backtracking though, especially trails that are new to me. There's the fresh angle of looking at things, and a chance to see gems I had missed the first go.

I also had the chance of taking more photos of course. Considering how slow I was walking, I'm surprised I didn't take more than 3000 photos on this 3 miles hike.

Cobwebby Paintbrush, Castilleja arachnoidea 

One reason I suspect, was my focus on taking careful steps, especially on the way down the steeper parks of the trail. Leaning heavily on my poles I was very careful to place my feet flat whenever I could, avoiding the forward slide of my feet inside me shoes. I couldn't avoid it altogether however, and the pain mounted with each step. Yes, the thought of 'what was I thinking?" did sneak into my mind. It was too late to change things now though, and ruminating about it wouldn't help a thing. I chased that thought from my mind and continued on. This was a short trail and not remotely as steep as Mount Shasta. I'd be just fine.

Paradise Meadow Trail

I was rewarded with another wild orchid: a coralroot. I had missed it on the way up but now I had the opportunity to take a closer look of this pretty forest orchid.

Summer Coral Root, Corallorhiza maculata 

I took Many photos of that coralroot. Most of them didn't really come out right, I guess there was something off in my camera settings. When I prepared the photos for this post however, I found something interesting. Upon enlarging one photo I saw this interesting trio: a crab spider hanging from the orchid, holding a fly in its grip, and on the fly was riding a small ant. What was the ant doing there, I have no idea. Maybe it became the crab spider's dessert.

I was much relieved to have been done with the steeper part of the trail. I was hurting pretty bad by then, having my Shasta-given blisters triggered all over again.

Paradise Meadow Trail

Walking slowly through the willow patch I noticed something that had evaded my eyes on my way up: the mold of a cicada still gripping its jumping board to adulthood: a Monardella plant under the bushes.

The final molt of a cicada 

I just about limped the final stretch of the trail, wholly ready to take my shoes off again. Despite the pain I was very glad to have done this hike. It was exactly what I needed to cushion my mental descend from Mount Shasta.

Scarlet Gilia, Ipomopsis aggregata

A group of young hikers entered the trail just as I was exiting it. They were happy and energetic and walked with the gait of  spring of youth and health. They smiled to me, a weary, older woman, limping between to hiking poles, and went on with their hike, soon disappearing between the trees. I smiled to myself and limped across the road to my car.

Paradise Meadow Trail

I took the time driving through the park. Naturally, I stopped at Lake Helen to gaze at the silent calm of Lassen Peak. The peak's stony eye was closed, the mountain was sleeping.

Lassen Peak and Lake Helen

Less than a month after my hike to Paradise Meadow, the Dixie Fire started south of Lassen Volcanic National Park. This fire started by arson, and blew to an unbelievable size of nearly a million acres, becoming the largest yet in California's troubled wildfire history. It destroyed wilderness areas and human communities, and ravaged nearly all of Lassen Volcanic National park. I will visit there again as soon as opportunity arises, to see how it'll look like, rising from the ashes.