A Loop of Discovery: Finding Cataract Falls and Other Mountain Treasures, Twice.

 

Cataract Creek, June 2023

 

 

Date: June 17, 2023 (including photos from May 25, 2022)

Place: Mount Tamalpais Watershed Area, Fairfax, California

Coordinates: 37.936769, -122.638051

Length: 9 miles

Level: strenuous

 

     Cataract Falls  had been on my wanna go list for a while. On the spring of 2022 I finally took the opportunity to hike there. 2022 was a very dry year though. I had a very nice hike but the creek was running low and the waterfalls were thin. The 2023 winter brought enormous amount of precipitation and I really wanted to go and see the cataract falls again, when running high. This spring however, the opportunity came in the later half of June. This time around Pappa Quail to join me on the hike. In this blog post I will describe primarily our recent hike with additions from my last year's solo hike.

    This trail is hugely popular. When I hiked it last year I went there on a weekday morning and had no trouble parking in the little parking area by the trailhead. This time however, Pappa Quail and I went there on a Saturday, and by 10:30, which is when we got there, the parking area was jam-packed, including all the pullouts and small road sections where there was enough shoulder to park off road, within a quarter mile from the trailhead. We parked a bit higher than the trailhead and as we walked down I mused about having to walk all of that back up after our hike. 

June 2023

Cataract Creek flows into Alpine Lake, one of the reservoirs of the Mount Tam Watershed. The trail starts very close to the lake, and there are some really nice views of the water from the trailhead area. 

Alpine Lake, June 2023

The trail begins flat and easy. On the day I went with Pappa Quail it was impossible to take a photo there without other humans in te frame, but on my solo hike last year I was there nearly by myself. 

Cataract Falls Trail, May 2022

Because 2023 was a wetter winter I expected to see more wildflowers than I saw last year. We were there later in the season however, so actually I saw fewer wildflowers on the recent hike. 

Tarplant, June 2023

Last year I saw many onion-looking flowers blooming along the first, easy part of the trail. I wasn't able to identify the species and I suspect this is a non-native landscaping escapee that established itself here. On my recent hike I didn't see them bloom at all. 

Coastal Onion? allium dichlamydeum, May 2022

I expected seeing Cataract Creek flowing stronger than it did last year. It did flow stronger, but not strikingly so. We were there later in the season of course, and that counts. 

May 2022

Lat year however, I did get much better photos of the creek even though the flow was somewhat lower. That was because my view wasn't obstructed then by the crowds. 

First waterfall, May 2022

Many of the wildflowers I had the pleasure of seeing on both of my hikes. One of my favorites, the crimson columbine, was one of the more common species blooming there. 

Crimson Columbine, Aquilegia formosa, June 2023

Although the bloom seemed less strong in June of 2023, there were still plenty of wildflowers all along the trail, especially near the creek and in the wetter areas on the side of the trail. 

Alumroot, Heuchera micrantha, June 2023

For some of the plants of course, it was already fruiting time. The fruit of the trillium is just as pretty as its flowers, in my opinion. 

Trillium sp., June 2023

We reached the first trail junction, near a lovely pool at the bottom of a triple cascade. The entire area was full of hikers and we barely managed to find a vacant space on the rocks above the pull where we could sit for a short break. There were many people right by the pool and some even waded in the water. I didn't want to have the people in the photo so I focused on the cascades. 

First Pond, June 2023

The cascades flow last year was thinner, but then I was alone by the pool and could take in the entire of this pretty gem. 

First Pond, May 2022

Pappa Quail brought my attention to a rose bush. The bush bore a single blooming branch that from where I was sitting, looked a bit damaged. I did get up to take a closer look though, and after a couple of hikers that stood right by that bush have stepped away I was able to see the roses better. Later along the trail I saw plenty of rose bushes, many of which were blooming nicely. 

Baldhip Rose, Rosa gymnocarpa, June 2023

After about 20 minutes we got up and continued hiking up Cataract Creek. Taking people-free photos of the trail too was not easy on our recent hike. The trail was like a busy freeway with individuals and groups going up and down like angles on Jacob's ladder. I used a photo from last year's hike. 

May 2022

It was easier to notice wildlife of the little kind when I was alone on the trail, not having to dodge other hikers or to rush onward after Pappa Quail. 

Snail, May 2022

The spiders seem to be always in season. I had more time and patience to photograph them on my last year's solo hike. 

Spider in its web, My 2022

The day was warm and growing hot, but near the creek, in the shade of the trees it was nice and cool. It was tempting to get down to the water but we remained on the trail. 

Cataract Creek, June 2023

There are many irises along that trail. Last year I hiked there in time to see them all in full bloom. This year we were there too late. There was only one iris blooming, and even that one was finishing. I post here an iris from last year. 

Douglas Iris, Iris douglasiana, May 2022

There were a few other plants that by June this year were done blooming. They were however, blooming nicely earlier in the season and I got to see them blooming on my hike there last year. 

Redwood Sorrel, Oxalis oregana May 2022

Blue dicks had a very poor bloom last year, but I did see a few on my solo hike then. This year there were lots and lots of blue dicks all over the place, but by the time I hiked Cataract Falls trail again, they were done blooming there. 

Blue Dicks, Dichelostemma capitatum, May 2022

The forest in that area is of mainly oaks and redwoods. But there were the occasional buckeye trees as well, and seeing them blooming is a very nice treat. 

California Buckeye, Aesculus californica, May 2022

A common woods flower that I frequently see on forest hikes in northern California is the Pacific starflower. It is one of the wildflowers that I find myself identifying anew each time because I don't remember its name. 

Pacific Starflower, Lysimachia latifolia, June 2023

One wildflower species that I never forget is the Collinsia heterophylla. Perhaps because of its associative common name - Chinese houses. 

Chinese Houses, Collinsia heterophylla, June 2023

 On my solo hike I got to see a bit more wildlife. Undisturbed by the human crowds, little lizards were sunning themselves on the rocks and logs by the trail side.

Western Fence Lizard

 

On our recent hike, on one the few and far between times when the trail was not jammed with people, a dark-eyed junco dropped down to catch a quick dinner. Pappa Quail didn't miss the opportunity and captured the little hyperactive bird with its catch of the day in its  beak.

Dark-eyed Junco, June 17, 2023

 

Cataract Creek drops down a steep slope. What is called Cataract Falls is in fact, a series of cascades spaced by short segments of calmer flow and little, gem-like pools. The light play in the water created an absolutely lovely ethereal sensation.

June 2023

I was happy to find out that we were not too late to see the canyon larkspur in full bloom. This is really a lovely wildflower, and there were many of them along the upper part of the trail.

Canyon Larkspur, Delphinium nudicaule, June 2023

Higher up the trail the valley opened a bit to let more sunshine through, and the forest undergrowth was thicker too.

Sticky Monkeyflwer, Diplacus aurantiacus, May 2022

After a steep climb which included also segments of uneven and often too large rock stairs the trail leveled into a much easier mild slope. Remembering my last year's hike I reassured Pappa Quail that soon we'll be at the picnic area that separated the lower and the upper halves of the Cataract Falls Trail.

Cataract Falls Trail, June 2023

On the map I had, Cataract Falls are marked just before the picnic area. There is a waterfall there sure enough, but it is tucked well inside a rock chute and is hard to see from the trail. I Considered stepping off the trail to get a better look at the waterfall but Pappa Quail was already ascending yet another set of stairs so I passed on the opportunity and went after him.

Cataract Creek, June 2023

There wasn't much to see at the picnic area. Hot and tired, we sat down at a partially shaded picnic table for our lunch break. After some rest it was time to decide our next move. I wasn't hot on going back down Cataract Falls Trail. Both of us were in agreement not to go on to the upper Cataract Falls Trail on this hike, but we did debate on where to continue from there. I didn't want to descend the steep, multi-stairs trail, especially considering all the hikers that were still moving on that trail. Pappa Quail worried that the loop might be too much, but eventually he was convinced to go on the same loop trail that I did the year before.

California Poppy, Eschscholzia californica, May 2022

 Past the picnic area was a small forest clearing with a cute meadow full of poppies, daisies, and checker mallow flowers.

Checker Mallow, Cidalcea malviflora, June 2023

The large, beautiful daisies turned out to be an introduced, invasive species that spread itself along the northern California coast.

Oxeye Daisy, Leucanthemum vulgare, June 2023

For a short distance we walked the wide and comfortable Laurel Dell Fire Rd. We left the meadow behind us and delved once more into the woods.

Laurel Dell Fire Road, June 2023

From there we took a narrow connector trail to the High Marsh Trail, continuing the loop hike into the forest. It was nice to finally be alone on the trail. We did run into more hikers every now and then, but the side, wood trails were not crowded at all. There was room to breathe.

High Marsh Trail, June 2023

On its upper part, the High Marsh Trail only lives up to the 'high' in its name. Not only there were no so signs of any marsh there, but a good length of that trail is chaparral - tall bush thicket exposed to direct sunshine.

High Marsh Trail, June 2023

The chaparral is an heterogenic plant community and most dominant species in that place at the time was the chamise. Both last year and this year I was fortunate to see it in full bloom. It is a really gorgeous bush and when blooming it looks like a little cream cloud.

Chamise, Adenostoma fasciculatum, June 2023

Another, less represented but more colorful member of the chaparral community, is the chaparral pea. This one too I saw blooming both last year and this year.

Montana Chapparal Pea, Pickeringia montana, June 2023

The trail undulated up and down, but the general direction was mildly downhill. In one place the chaparral bushes were lower than our shoulders and we got some nice, all around view. I found it interesting when comparing the photos I took last year with those I took on my recent hike how I was inspired by exactly the same views in exactly the same places. This image below is nearly identical to its last year's equivalent.

High Marsh Trail, June 2023

 

 Last year however, the honeysuckle vines were blooming there. This year they were done blooming by June.

Pink Honeysuckle, Locinera hispidula

Above the vegetation we could see to the next mountain ridge and the last drifts of the morning fog diminishing back west to the ocean.

View. June 2023

Not all intense color comes from wildflowers. Manzanita species are also very common members of the chaparral community and these manzanita galls are even redder than their ripe berries.

Manzanita Galls, June 2023

In other parts of the High Marsh Trail the chaparral was very high, and in areas dominated by the manzanita, the tall bushes locked branches over the trail, creating a beautiful tunnel.

High Marsh Trail

A mile and a half into the High Marsh Trail we finally started descending in earnest, and soon we were back in the shaded forest. At some point we crossed what looked like a dried out side creek. When we neared the creek crossing however, we heard clearly the sound of flowing water. The creek was running all right, but under all the rocks and plant debris that clogged the creek path. I recalled it was the same last year in this place. Then I attributed it to the drought, but apparently this creek normally runs hidden from sight.

High Marsh Trail

At last we started seeing signs of a marsh. It begun with areas of wet soil. I remembered the place and told Pappa Quail to start looking for mariposa lilies, recalling having seen them in this area last year. Sure enough, we soon run into many of them - a nice patch of the Oakland mariposa lilies. 

Oakland Mariposa Lily, Calochortus umbellatus, May 2022

There were also a few butterflies flying around, and one of them graciously sat down long enough to be photographed.

California Sister Butterfly, June 2023

We reached a little forest pond. Pappa Quail glanced at the calm water and commented that there were no birds there. I didn't really expect to see birds in such a small pond when a big lake wasn't very far away, but I did expect to feel the mosquitoes any moment now.

Forest Pond, June 2023

Thankfully, I felt no bites and heard no annoying mosquito buzzing. When I approached to take a closer look at the pond I saw that it harbored many tadpoles. The tadpoles were likely the reason that the mosquitos were absent, and I was thankful for that.

Tadpoles, June 2023

Near the bond I found another patch of the mariposa lilies, each one more beautiful than the other. The Oakland mariposa lilies may not be as big and fancy as other species of the Calochortus genus, but they are delicately beautiful, especially with the inside petal pattern more pronounced.

Oakland Mariposa Lily, Calochortus umbellatus, June 2023

Past the pond Pappa Quail pointed out to me a wildflower deeper in the forest and used his birding lens to photograph it. I saw only some dead vegetation between the trail and the flowers so I approached to take a closer look myself.

One Leaf Onion, Allium unifolium, June 2023

We reached the junction with the Kent Trail and turned left and downhill on it. Kent Trail drops continuously down to Alpine Lake, the large reservoir, but at a different place from where we started the hike. Shortly after our turn we crossed another creek, this time one that runs above ground.

Creek, June 2023

On this trail Pappa Quail got luckier in seeing and photographing birds. Often I didn't see these birds at all, they were so well camouflaged in the trees.

Warbling Vireo

We reached another area of chaparral. I remembered that last year I saw mariposa lilies blooming along this part of the trail as well so I kept on the lookout. This year however, I didn't see any of them there.

Kent Trail, May 2022

I did see plenty of other wildflowers however. Many of them were blooming bushes, such as the chamise, the chaparral pea, and also the holy herb - the yerba santa.

Yerba Santa, Eriodictyon californicum, June 2023

The manzanita bushes were well past their bloom season. Their fruit however, those lovely red berries, were no less decorative. It's best to enlarge the photo to see how lovely it looks.

Manzanita sp. Arctostaphylos sp. June 2023

From beneath the tall manzanita I saw the yellow yarrow shrubs with their brilliant, shining yellow bloom.

Yellow Yarrow, Eriophyllum confertiflorum, June 2023

A bit ahead of me Pappa Quail stopped and when I caught up with him I saw that he was focusing on a lizard that was sunning itself on a log.The lizard eyed us warily but didn't move.

Western Fence Lizard, June 2023

The second area of chaparral wasn't as big and soon we were walking in the forest again. This time the forest was a mix of thin, logging-survivor redwoods, and lots of thickly growing tanoak below them. The tanoak grew into the trail and in parts there was no avoiding brushing against them.

Kent Trail, June 2023

Another little brown bird did Pappa Quail a favor and dropped onto the trail, keeping in the open for a nice photoshoot.

Hermit Thrush, June 2023

From high up on the trees we could hear the knocks of a woodpecker. Pappa Quail immediately stopped and started searching the canopies, hoping for a pileated woodpecker. The tall trees were redwood and I couldn't help noticing how thin they were. The  redwood here, as in most of the Bay Area, are new growth, sprouted from the stumps of the old growth trees that were all logged during the massive development that happened during the gold rush years.

Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens, June 2023

Pappa Quail eventually spotted the woodpecker, which turned out to be an acorn woodpecker, probably the most common woodpecker in our area, if not in California entirely.

Acorn Woodpecker

We came upon another pond, one that looked very murky and more swamp like than a pond. Fearing mosquitoes, we hurried past it quickly.

Stillwater Pond, June 2023

I found a cicada molt clutched to a blade of grass. I see these frequently enough on my spring hikes, but I'm fascinated by them each time anew. They are very delicate structures.

Cicada Molt, June 2023

The long downhill trail started taking its toll on our aging knees. Away from the cool of Cataract Creek, we were now sweating profusely in the heat of the day. Pappa Quail wanted a break and I was in need of one as well. I knew however, that we weren't far from the lake shore, and I thought that would be a better place to stop. Indeed, soon we saw the lake from between the trees.

Kent Trail, June 2023

We stopped at the trail junction for a well needed break. It was in that place that the mosquitoes finally caught up with us and we had to pull our deet out and quickly apply it. During that time a number of hiker groups passed us by. I had the opportunity to check out the wildflowers nearby too. I photographed these many times on the hike, but it turned out that my best photo them this species I actually took last year, so that's the one I'm using. It's one of those plants that I have to identify each time because I never remember their name.

California Milkwort, Rhinotropis californica, May 2022

I also use here my photo of the lake that I took last year, because apparently I had a much better view point at the time. That view point was full with people on our recent hike so we didn't go all the way down there.

Alpine Lake, May 2022

AT the lake shore we turned left on the Helen Markt Trail. This trail follows the contours of the lake all the way back to Cataract Falls Trail. This trail goes through short segments of chaparral, but mostly in the thick forest areas.

Helen Markt Trail, June 2023

In the deep shaded forest I found shade-loving wildflowers, such as the leafless wintergreen. There weren't many of them though.

Leafless Wintergreen, Pyrola aphylla, June 2023

Pappa Quail spotted a chipmunk on one of the trees and surprisingly, the chipmunk cooperated with the camera.

Sonoma Chipmunk, June 2023

Hot, tired, and eager to finish the hike, Pappa Quail hurried ahead and I struggled to keep up, not only because my legs are shorter but also because I kept finding reasons to pause, or stop altogether. I found a little spring near the trail and I knelt down there to wash my hands and soak my hat. It was a hot day.

Spring, June 2023

There were also more wildflowers to admire and photograph. I was very surprised to see milkmaids blooming still. These ghost-like crucifers are ephemeral and normally bloom early in spring. This was pretty late in the season for them to be blooming.

Milk Maids, Cardamine californica, June 2023

All through the hike I kept looking of orchids. I was hoping to see calypso orchids but I saw none. Eventually I did find a coralrood orchid, but those I found were at the very final stages of their bloom. Still, and orchid is an orchid.

Summer Coralroot, Corallorhiza maculata, June 2023

We walked only 1.7 miles on the Helen Markt Trail, but that reasonably short distance felt very long, coming at the tail of the big loop we hiked. I felt my feet very well now, and I actually welcomed the short uphill stretches because they gave my knees a bit of a break from the downhill shock-absorbing strain. The deep forest shade was much appreciated too.

Helen Markt Trail, June 2023

We met with the Cataract Falls Trail roughly to where the first pond was, and sat down for a short break, breathing and finishing our snacks. The first pond was still full of people (different people), and more hikers were ascending the trail, so we didn't stay there too long. After a short refresher we started the steep trail downhill.

Cataract Creek, June 2023

We didn't stop anymore on the way down. Pappa Quail, who hadn't hiked such a long and strenuous trail in a while was sore all over, so I volunteered to go get the car while he waited at the trailhead. Once we agreed on that, he hurried ahead and left me trailing behind to admire the reflections on the lake's surface.

Lake Alpine Reflection, June 2023

On the way up to where we parked I saw a large raven hanging by some of the parked cars. I had left my heavy camera with Pappa Quail, and I didn't feel like pulling my phone out to photograph the bird, so I just said hello and continued to my car. At home however, when I looked through my photos from my last year's solo hike, I found that I did photograph a raven hanging by the cars then. Perhaps it was even the same bird, who knows?

Raven, May 2022

We arrived home exhausted. I expected to be sore for days after this hike but a nice hot bath and a good night's rest eliminated all my soreness. Soon after I was ready to go hiking all over again.