Short and Sweet: Hiking Chimney Rock Trail at Point Reyes National Seashore

Northern Elephant Seal, male

Date: February 19, 2024

Place: Point Reyes National Seashore, California

Chimney Rock Trailhead Coordinates: 37.996156, -122.979478

Length: 0.5 miles

level: easy

Pappa Quail and I were driving back from our winter getaway weekend in he Russian River area where we hiked at the Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve and the Sonoma Coast State Park and got rained on a lot. On our way south we stopped for a birding hike in Bodega Bay, and got rained on some more. The rain actually ceased before we finished our birding hike and the sky was clearing up. We were encouraged  because we had also planned to stop at Point Reyes National Seashore since we haven't been there in a long while. 

Our first stop was at the visitor center in Point Reyes Station. It took us much longer than we anticipated to get there because highway 1 was closed due to flooding and we had to drive on a wide detour. At the visitor center we were directed to Drake's Beach where, we were told, a colony of elephant seals was present. 

The first thing that Pappa Quail photographed when we exited the car at Drake's Beach wasn't a seal though, but a juvenile gull that flew right overhead.

Western Gull, juvenile

The seals weren't going anywhere. There were lots of them, strewn on the beach, most of them sleeping. A large log fence blocked the beach access and a couple of rangers stood by, making sure that no human would jump the fence in attempt of getting closer to the seals.

Northern Elephant Seal

Not that there was any need to get any closer. The seals filled the entire beach space from the water to the fence. It was hard to believe that only a few decades ago this species was on the brink of extinction. We learned later on a visit at Año Nuevo State Park that because of their past near extinction they were now all closely genetic relatives. It'll take more generations for genetic diversity to develop again in this species.

Northern Elephant Seal

Although most seals were sleeping there was also a some activity going on as well. Many of the bulls were restless, going after the much smaller females to initiate mating, even if the female was actively trying to get away.

Northern Elephant Seal, female (left) and male (right)

Bulls were also fighting one another for dominance and mating rights. The fighting involved loud roars and flaunting of their large noses, after which they were named.

Northern Elephant Seal, males fighting for dominance

Although most of the seals were sleeping in a group huddle, some preferred solitude. Or perhaps they preferred a mattress other than rotting kelp.

Northern Elephant Seal, male

After a good long hour of watching the elephant seals and asking questions of the attendant rangers we continued to our next stop for a short hike. The day was getting old and we didn't have a whole lot of time so we chose to hike the short Chimney Rock Trail that's on the eastern tip of the point of Point Reyes, opposite of the lighthouse trail, and not too far from Drake's Beach.

Our hike as captured by my GPS

The few clouds that were hanging still in the sky did not block the sunlight that swept the scenery below us. From the trailhead, and throughout the entire trail we had a lovely view of Drake's Bay

Drake's Bay view

The view was pretty good, in fact. I could see the mid-bay cliffs, same cliffs that are visible on a really clear day from the San Francisco Peninsula on the south. 

A bit n the west there was a shack on an old dock, both in the process pf being consumed by the ocean. I assumed that was by boat that the lighthouse operators got their supplies before good roads and vehicles became regular. 

Flocks of pelicans flew across the sky one after the other. Some were flying below us. When I saw that Pappa Quail wasn't going to take any pelican photis I raised my camera and photographed them myself. 

Pacific Brown Pelicans

Pappa Quail focused on the water below us. Far way below us, as the cliff we were on was quite high. He saw a seal there. Not one of the elephant seals but one of the more common harbor seals. I love the frozen motion in this photo - how the seal floats easily into the swell wave as the wave rises and starts breaking. 

The trail to Chimney Rock is short and sweet. There were some early wildflowers blooming along the trail too, such as the coast man-root. 

Coast Man-root, Marah oregana 

A few people were already standing at the observation deck at the end of the trail. We joined them and looked below. The beach across from the cliff we were standing on was occupied by sleeping elephant seals . 

We stood there and watched the seals for a while after the other visitors went away. Pappa Quail could make out and photograph individual seals but he didn't focus on them for too long - we had a much better view of them on Drake's Beak. 

Northern Elephant Seal, male

We could, in fact, see Drake's Beach all the way ahead, across Drake's Bay. Drake - meaning of course Sir Francis Drake, the first English explorer who officially landed n California's shores, and it was at Point Reyes where he did so, back in 1579. 

View of Drake's Beach

Eventually we turned about and started heading back up the trail. I didn't see what was meant by Chimney Rock, I completely forgot abut the trail's name until I've started writing about this little hike. 

Chimney Rock Trail

Some beach strawberries were also blooming on the slope. When they ripen, their little, thumbnail size fruit taste pretty good, although they are not half as sweet as cultivated strawberries are.  

Beach Strawberry, Fragaria oregana

Part of the trail was flooded and we had to carefully tread on the side. Clouds still loomed on the horizon, but the rain was gone for that day. 

Chimney Rock Trail

Pappa Quail photographed another seal in the water below. Perhaps it was the same seal as before. This time however, the seal looked up at us, as if aware it was being watched. 

Harbor Seal

He also spotted a surf scoter duck below. The drakes of this species look a bit odd with the big black spot on their bills, making them look as if they have huge nostrils. In matin season the drakes look quite spectacular. 

Surf Scoter

I was surprised to see a pine tree thriving below us, so close t the shore. It wasn't one of the native coastal pines, I think. 

We were back at the trailhead in no time. I took another moment to look at the sweeping view of Drake's Bay. I was impressed by lines of the regular waves moving to shore and the perpendicular lines drawn by the rip currents that weaved through the swell, making the ocean face look like an elaborate quilt. 

Drake's Bay 

This was our last stop. Or so we thought, because on our we back on the Point Reyes Road we saw a herd of elk on the road side and of course we had to stop and take some photos of these magnificent beings. 

Elk

Point Reyes is one of California's natural treasures. It has been too long since I was there last, and I was very happy to have visited there again last February. I would probably visit there again sometime this summer - it would be a perfect place to go to escape the heat.