In Search of Wildflowers: Hiking the Manzanita Creek Trail in Lassen Volcanic National Park

 

Dates: July 18 and July 21, 2024
Place: Lassen Volcanic National Park, Old Station, California,
Coordinates: 40.527436, -121.561410

Length: 8 miles
Level: strenuous

 

 

Lassen Volcanic National Park is a magical place. It is so heterogeneous and has so many things to see within a relatively small area. I visit Lassen Volcanic NP pretty much every year, often taking people with me to show them the park's wonders. Last summer I led a camping trip there for my family hiking group as I used to do every summer before the pandemic. On these trips I usually add a day or two either before or after the group time, and hike trails I have not yet hiked in this park, or not hiked in a long while. My last trip was no different - I chose to stay an extra day after my group departed, and on that day I hiked up the gorgeous Ridge Lakes Trail. On this camping trip however, I did have the opportunity do hike yet another trail that was new to me - the Manzanita Creek Trail.

My July 21 hike as captured by my GPS

In fact, part of this trail I hiked twice on this trip. Having some time on July 18 before my group arrived I decided to hike as far as my time allowed on this trail, which was close enough to our group's meeting place at the Loomis Visitor Center by Manzanita Lake. Although I later hiked the entire trail on July 21 I do include here some photos from my earlier, partial hike. 

The Manzanita Creek trailhead is at the southeast corner of the Manzanita Lake Campground. The was no day use parking area near the trailhead so I parked in front of the campground store and walked down the road to the trailhead, evading the occasional car and many children on bicycles. 

At the Trailhead

The trail delved right into the woods, which were mostly tall and narrow pine trees. July 18 was a very hot day and I started hiking near mid day so there was very little shade on the trail. July 21 was also a very hot day, but on that day I begun hiking well after lunch time and I expected the temperature to come down as the day grew older. 

Manzanita Creek Trail, July 18

Little mammals were active on the forest floor, not minding the intense heat of the day. Perhaps they even liked it. 

Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel

Both squirrels and chipmunks were way too active for me to get a good, close-up shot of them. I was happy to see that they didn't try approaching me for food, as some of these rodents do in campgrounds and campground vicinity. 

Chipmunk

I was also happy to see a bird there on the tree, and I did my best to take a recognizable photo before the bird flew off to another tree, farther away. 

Western Tanager, July 17

Not all the trees I saw along the trail were standing upright. The huge Dixie fire that ravaged the park and is vicinity in the summer of 2021 had reached very close to the Manzanita Lake area and was stopped not very far from the trail. As I walked up I ran into a maintenance crew that was busy cutting and removing downed trees. One of the crew workers told me that this was done to help minimize future fire risk by reducing the available tinder. I complained to them that the trail was called 'Manzanita Creek' yet the creek was nowhere in sight, and they reassured me that the creek crossing was just ahead and that it was a lovely place to stop for a break. 

Manzanita Creek Trail, July 18

So reassured, I moved on. It was very hot, but the trail was easy enough to hike. Except for a few very short steeper segments, most of the trail was rising on a very mild slope. In some places it was even flat.

Manzanita Creek Trail

One of the things I was looking forward to seeing on this trail were wildflowers. The ranger at the Loomis Visitor Center told me that wildflowers were the main attraction on this trail in the summer. During the first part of the hike however, I saw relatively little bloom.

Shasta Penstemon, Penstemon heterodoxus var. shastensis, July 17

For the most part, the wildflowers I've seen were blooming in small forest clearings where the sunshine had a direct rout to the ground. Some of the plants however, were of forest undergrowth species, evolved to thrive in semi-shade conditions.

Toothed Wintergreen, Pyrola dentata

 

The forest clearings I was crossing became more numerous and also larger. The soil there was of small volcanic gravel with the occasional larger rock poking out f the ground. The plants that grew in these clearing were of a few dominant species with a few individuals of a less represented species in between. The hoary aster, a fairly common plant all around, I saw only two or three individuals of blooming along this trail.  

Hoary Aster, Dieteria canescens 

More common was the naked buckwheat, another very common wildflower found in many areas of California. 

Naked Buckwheat, Eriogonum nudum

 

The most common wildflower along that part of the trail however, was the satin lupine, and it seemed to be just at the peak of its bloom season. 

Satin Lupine, Lupinus obtusilobus

I started getting glimpses of Lassen Peak ahead, peeking through the trees. The trail was heading toward the east side of the volcano. The peak was mostly bare, wearing but a few snow patches.   

I zoomed my camera at maximum and focused it on the protrusion I saw on the left slope of Lassen Peak.

Lassen Peak

 

The more visible mountain was Chaos Crags, on my left. There was no snow at all on Chaos Crags. There's no trail going up that mountain either. There is a trail that leads fairly close to it, though. On one of our first visits in Lassen Volcanic NP Pappa Quail and I hiked that trail, but I don't remember much of it. Perhaps it's time I hiked it again. 

Manzanita Creek Trail, Chaos Crags

I picked up my pace only to slow it down again - there were more wildflowers blooming in this large clearing I was walking through.

Cobwebby Paintbrush, Castilleja arachnoides

 

More lupine shrubs dotted the forest clearing. The long spur lupine that bloomed there seemed to already be past its peak.

Long-spur Lupine, Lupinus arbustus

Along with the wildflowers were, as expected, many butterflies. These magnificent insects were very active in the heat, and didn't make it easy for me to take their photos. Still, I was somewhat successful.

Checkerspot Butterfly on a Pale Mountain Monardella, Monardella odoratissima, July 18

Once again in the forest, I was wondering when I'd be seeing the promised Manzanita Creek. The map had the thin blue line marked close to the trail somewhere on my left but I couldn't even hear the water flow. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

 

When I finally arrived at the Manzanita Creek crossing, it was almost by surprise. My approach scared off an American dipper bird which, sadly, didn't come back for a photo shoot while I was there. Right away I saw what the forest work crew man was talking about. Submitting myself to the cool shade and the lulling sound of flowing water I lowered myself to the ground right by the creek and rested for a good long while. 

On July 18, the creek was also my turning point. I didn't have the time to go on because I needed to be back at the Loomis Visitor Center to meet my camping group. On my way back however, another sole hiker passed me from behind. She paused for a moment, telling me that up the trail were meadows full of wildflowers and what a shame it was that I had to turn back. Then she continued down the trail at a fast pace and I followed suit, gritting my teeth and feeling a full blown FOMO.

Manzanita Creek, July 18

On July 21 my plan was to take my camping group to Devil's Kitchen, since the trail to Bumpass Hell was closed still. The area of Devil's Kitchen however, was heavily damaged in the Dixie Fire of 2021 and the prospect of hiking a now fully exposed trail on a very hot day to see hot geothermal features seemed less attractive to my family group. The voted to have an easy fun morning in the shade by Manzanita Lake and start home to the Bay Area right after lunch. This was how it happened that on the last day of my group camping trip I found myself alone again right by the Manzanita Creek Trail with enough hours of daylight to hike its entire length. 

So, on Sunday, July 21 when I reached Manzanita Creek I stopped there only for a short time, and soon resumed hiking up the trail, looking forward to seeing those wildflower meadows that the other hiker taunted me with a three days before.

Manzanita Creek Trail

At first the trail looked pretty much the same as before crossing Manzanita Creek. There were segment of sparse conifer forest interspaced by small clearings with more of the same wildflowers I've seen so far, and lots of butterflies flying between them. What I didn't mention before was that the most common wildflower species in these forest clearings was the pale mountain monardella. I also didn't include a photo specifically of this plant species because in nearly all of my butterfly photos the pretty insects are visiting the monardella flowers. This plant is certainly a favorite among butterflies. 

Zephyr Comma Butterfly on a Pale Mountain Monardella, Monardella odoratissima

Before going on this hike on July 21 I passed the lovely morning with my camping group by the shore of Manzanita Lake. There, on a wet mud by the shore, were numerous tortoiseshell butterflies that were sucking the mud, for water, and possibly for essential minerals. I was happy to see the tortoiseshells enjoy also a more conventional (for butterflies) meal.  

California Tortoiseshell Butterfly, on a Pale Mountain Monardella, Monardella odoratissima

Another butterfly that was enjoying the mnardella feast was the orange sulphur - a particularly hyperactive butterfly that I usually have a real hard time photographing. I managed to photograph it on this hike. 

Orange Sulphur Butterfly on a Pale Mountain Monardella, Monardella odoratissima

Past the clearing I was back again in the forest. With no meadow of flowers in sight, I focused my attention on the trees. I liked the combination of pine trees and cedars. The occasional dead trunk added an interesting contrast to the view. 

I found a snow plant blooming on the forest floor and I paused to look at it. It was way past its bloom season, and I didn't see others nearby. 

Snow Plant, Sarcodes sanguinea

Past some distance, the trail was changing appearance. On my left (west of the trail) rose a steep, and thickly forested slope which I soon realized was the slope of Lassen Peak itself. On my right (east), finally, was Manzanita Creek. I couldn't see the creek itself because the water was obscured by thick bushes, but I could hear the flow and I enjoyed seeing the bright green riparian vegetation that contrasted with the dark green of he forest. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

I saw more butterflies as I advanced along the trail. Blue butterflies are easier to photograph - they do tend to pause a lot. The tradeoff is that they close their wings when they come to a standstill. It's haeder to catch them with their wings spread. 

Blue Butterfly

The creek meandered a bit and a highly grown clearing opened up between the trail and the line of bushes that marked the creek line. I wondered if that was the promised meadow - there was indeed a ot of bloom there, but mostly of cornlilies and arrowhead grounsels. 

Cornlilies are high on my list of favorite California wildflowers. I enjoy seeing them whenever I hike in the mountains. The delicate lines of their leaves and their luxurious blossom is one of the iconic sights of the California alpine meadows. 

California Cornlily, Veratrum californianum

The vegetation became shorter as I progressed along the trail but the meadow remained narrow and the composition of species remained pretty much the same. 

I bit further on I started seeing more wildflowers, such as the great red paintbrush. These lovely shrubs became more numerous as I neared the south end of the trail. 

Great Red Paintbrush, Castilleja miniata

A rugged mountain peak loomed ahead on the southeast, which was mostly bare of trees and had only a few small snow patches. The map had it marked as Loomis Peak. There is no trail going up that peak either, and none that even goes near it. 

Loomis Peak

The meadow opened up more and I now I was completely out of the shade. The day was hot still, but its edge was dulling. I was sweaty al right, but no longer felt like walking through a sauna.  

Manzanita Creek Trail

I came upon surface water once again. This wasn't Manzanita Creek but a tributary brook cming down from Lassen Peak, fed no doubt, by the melting snow.  

It was right there by that brook that I really saw what that other hiker from three days ago talked about - all of a sudden I was standing in the middle of a gorgeous alpine garden of wildflowers. 

I stayed for a good long time there, looking at all the beautiful wildflowers, finding my usual acquaintances and also looking for anything that might be new to me. 

Columbian Monkshood, Aconitum columbianum

I took many photos in that spot but most of them are not posted here, because this pretty meadow at the little side brook was just the beginning of this summer celebration. 

The trail continued south, delving right into the conifer forest again. There were no ore fancy wildflowers but I welcomed the shade. I was also getting thirsty and I needed a break so I looked for  place to sit down for a bit. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

I found a downed tree that was already cut by the park workers, making it a convenient seat, and I stopped there for a brief break. During my break I detected some motion in the trees above me and spotted a young bird there. I did my best to get a recognizable photo f the fledgeling and Pappa Quail identified it later as a juvenile hermit thrush. 

Hermit Thrush, juvenile

The trail continued through the forest and here there were lots of little lupine shrubs blooming along side the trail. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

With all the butterflies flying around it was easy to forget that there were plenty of other insects active all around. Some of them I nearly trampled too, good thing they have excellent reflexes. 

Grasshopper

Then the trees parted, little by little, revealing a clearing that was considerably smaller than the previous meadow I walked past, but much wetter, and a much richer bloom display of wildflowers. 

Primrose Monkeyflower, Erythranthe primuloides

Unlike other blooming meadows I've seen, including the other one on this trail, this area did not present a large wide view of the clearing with all the patchwork of wildflowers. There were too many tall bushes disrupting the open view. 

Crimson Columbine, Aquilegia formosa

The wildflowers were lower to the ground, but they were numerous and very diverse. All of the spectrum colors of the alpine summer bloom were represented there, and the beauty of the place was absolutely stunning. 

Angelica sp.

I felt like I have found the jackpot. I had missed much of the past spring's bloom season in California but now I was finally having my well deserved compensation. 

Some of my findings were very small and low to the ground. The ground was very wet and I didn't feel like kneeling in the mud so I just bent over the small flowers. 

Primrose Monkeyflower, Erythranthe primuloides

I didn't see any distinct stream of water but the entire area was soaking wet and water was flowing in sheets through the vegetation. Parts of the path were very muddy and I had to tread creatively to avoid sinking too deep with me shoes. 

Finding orchids in bloom on my hikes is always a reason to celebrate. Whenever I come upon these little brooks in mountain meadows I look for bog orchids.  I did so here and I was not disappointed - there were a number of sierra bog orchids blooming right by the water. 

Sierra Bog Orchid, Platanthera dilatata

Near the orchids bloomed the elephanthead lousewort. I love seeing these plants, they look very pretty and strange. 

Elephanthead Lousewort, Pedicularis groenlandica

I was looking for wildflowers that were new to me and I found it right there - the familiar elephanthead lousewort it was, but a completely white form of it, which was something I've never seen before in this species. There were several white individuals in this patch of wildflowers, blooming alongside the normal colored ones. In the same patch bloomed also a few of the sierra bog orchids, and my biologist's mind immediately started developing a theory - could it be that the white elephanthead lousewort 'steel' pollinators with the bog orchid? I started toying with the idea of going back there to conduct some observations but in reality it probably wont come to pass. 

Elephanthead Lousewort, Pedicularis groenlandica

Another orchid species was also blooming in that area - the sparse-flowered bog orchid, with small flowers of pale green color. 

Sparse-flowered Bog Orchid, Platanthera sparsiflora

I saw three species of monkeyflowers on this hike, including the very common and very familiar seep monkeyflower. 

Seep Monleyflower, Erythranthe gutatta

The trail reached its official end. The Manzanita Creek was very close up ahead and it looked like a thin foot path was leading to it. I tried following that path and for a short distance I managed to negotiate the mud and the think vegetation. After a few steps however, I decided that it wasn't worth the effort to bushwhack my way to the creek. This was my turning back point. 

 

I spotted some stickseed flowers. On the following day I'd see much more of this species on my hike up the Ridge Lakes Trail. 

Jessica's Stickseed, Hackelia micrantha

Lassen Peak loomed very close. I found I good spot where I could view and photograph my favorite California volcano from this new and exciting angle. 

Lassen Peak

In slow steps I started my way back through the green little clearing, pausing frequently to take more photos of wildflowers I've already photographed on my way in. 

Some of these photos did come out better, taken by a second chance on my way back. The white marsh marigold was one of them. This is an earlier blooming species and only a few flowers remained open, and they looked to be past their prime. 

White Marsh Marigold, Caltha leptosepala

I was finally out of the muddy part of the trail. There were signs that people may have stayed over night in this clearing - the scar in the vegetation where a tent was pitched is recognizable by experienced backpackers. Knowing that a wilderness pass can be written for this trail, I assume that staying there was ok by the park authorities. Perhaps I could do it myself one day. Now however, I was heading back to the developed area of the park. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

I walked again through the part of the forest that had so many little lupine plants blooming down below the trees. Looking at the flowers I found a colorful moth, one that I didn't identify. 

Going back was faster, for sure. I kept a good pace and passed through most of the forest patches and the little clearings without stop. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

I arrived at the earlier meadow of flowers. Naturally, I didn't spend as much time standing there and admiring the view and the biodiversity as I did on my way up. I did take the opportunity however, to retake photos of some wildflowers again, getting better images.  

Arrowleaf Groundsel, Senecio triangularis

Lupine shrubs of the broadleaf species were also blooming in that magical spot, and they were not even at their peak season yet. 

Broadleaf Lupine, Lupinus latifolius

I also paced a bit down that tributary brook and followed it with my eyes to the place where it vanished into the woods.

A lovely cinquefoil plant in bloom was the last wildflower I paused by before resuming my hike down the trail. 

Drummond's Cinquefoil, Potentilla drummondii

I moved fast down the trail and soon I reached the place where the trail was right below Lassen Peak's slopes. From this angle I had a very nice view of the overgrown Manzanita Creek. 

The return angle gave me also a nice clear view of the creek itself - the only other spot where I got to see it directly other than the creek crossing location.

Fallen logs were a common enough sight all along the trail but in this spot I saw one that was there for a long while - long enough to have crumbled into mulch. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

I noticed a little bird in the the trees above me and took some photos. This bird too was a juvenile - a dark-eyed junco. I took that opportunity to rest a little and drink water. Finally, the day's heat was easing to a normal summer day's temperature. 

Dark-eyed Junco, juvenile

It was getting later in the afternoon however, and the tree shadows were longer now. I didn't need the shade as much now but it was still some nice relief from the heat. I walked fast now. I had planned to hike at the Ridge Lakes on the following day and I intended to sleep on the south side of the park, by the Kohm-Ya-Wah-Nee visitor center. I had enough time to complete the hike during daylight, but I preferred to not have to drive through the park in the dark. 

Soon I was by Chaos Crags once again. This time I looked at the mountain with more attention - it had some interesting basalt spires on its ridge that looked like horns. I think I will hike the Chaos Crags Trail again on a future visit to Lassen Volcanic NP. 

Chaos Crags

When I reached the Manzanita Creek crossing I convinced myself that I was making excellent time and I sat down for a bit, eating my snack and listening to the water. Of all the places on this trail, this point had reception, and I took the opportunity to read updates from my camping group who were well on their way home by now. It was then and there that I found out, through our group communication, about the Park Fire that had started burning in the area of Chico. This fire would spread in the next few days, causing a closure of Lassen Volcanic NP. 

Manzanita Creek

I didn't stay by the creek for too long. After resting a bit and eating something, I got going again. Now I was walking once again on that part of the trail that I hiked three days ago, on July 18. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

There were some bunches of scarlet gilia blooming in that area of the trail and I did take their photos on my up, but the best photo I had of these flowers was actually from that earlier hike. 

Scarlet Gilia, Ipomopsis aggregata, July 18

The butterflies still filled the air space above the mats of monardella flowers. I was happy to see a swallowtail - the first and only swallowtail that I saw that day. 

Anise Swallowtail Butterfly, July 18

Blue butterflies were much more numerous. I even came upon a couple of blue butterflies that were busy making the next generation of blue butterflies. 

Blue Butterfly, July 18

I wasn't paying as much attention to wildflowers anymore, this late in the hike. I did snap photographs here and there though, and some of them came out right. 

Spreading Dogbane, Apocynum androsaemifolium

A woodpecker on a tree was something else though - that was a sight worth stopping for. The woodpecker however, didn't cooperate with me. It kept hiding behind the branches and I never got a clear view of the entire bird. Pappa Quail identified it by the tell-tale white spot on its side. 

Red-breasted Sapsucker

The sun was no longer shining directly down onto the forest floor. It was getting late and I hastened my pace. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

On my earlier hike I saw a dragonfly perched on the tip of a broken stick and I photographed it. The insect was very still and now that I look at the photo I think it might have been dead. 

July 18

Another photo from the earlier hike that I chose to include here is that of a cone-laden fir tree. It looked very festive, almost ready for Christmas.  

July 18

Another interesting tree that I photographed wasn't even alive anymore, but it was a substrate for a very much alive mat of lichen. 

The last leg of the hike seemed the longest but went by quickly enough. The sun was already below the tree tops. The air was still very warm but in a comfortable way.  I was very sweaty though, and coated with a thin film of dust. 

Manzanita Creek Trail

After finishing the trail I still had to walk up the road to where I parked my car. I felt grimy and I purchased a shower at the campground shower facility near the store. Sadly, the place was quite filthy and although it was nice getting the dust and sweat off my body but I think I would have felt better to have simply dipped in the lake. I them drove through the park in the waning light and arrived at the Kohm-Ya-Wah-Neevisitor center only to find out that the campground there was still closed due to the fire damage of three years ago. It was fine to sleep in the car in the parking lot though, and I joined a few other car-campers in getting ready for the night. I was very happy to have hiked the full length of the Manzanita Creek Trail - the wildflower meadow was indeed worth the second attempt. I went to sleep content, and thinking of tomorrow's hike, going up the Ridge Lakes Trail.