My evening wish came true and on the third and coldest night of my backpacking trip I slept soundly, waking only a couple of times to shift position and not needing to go out of the tent even once. I woke up when direct sunlight hit my tent, at 7 am, which was great, because as soon as the sun was on the little nook I camped at, the temperatures were rising quickly. I wasn't surprised to find all the little pools near my campsite frozen still. The night's temperature did go well below freezing. I had to be careful to not slip on the ice when I went to the creek to fetch some water. As I got my morning tea and breakfast ready I could hear the first southbound backpackers that were going up from Rae Lakes to Glen Pass negotiating the creek crossing that I crossed yesterday. Apparently those unstable stones I balanced on to get across were now iced over, creating a problem for some of the hikers. Some of them did get to dip their shoes in the creek. Thankfully none of them got injured slipping on the ice.
In the morning light the Painted Lady didn't look as painted as it was in the evening light. The pond that I camped next to was much more beautiful under the eastern sun. I dipped my hands in the ice cold water, splashed my face, and the last traces of sleepiness were gone.
It was still chilly when I broke camp and started up the trail due south to Glen Pass, but it was already well above freezing and getting warmer each minute. The nice bit was that the wind had died down during the night and the air was calm in the morning.
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| My hike as captured by my GPS |
Although warmer, the ice was taking its good time to thaw, and I needed to be careful stepping around, and sometimes on ice patches on the wet trail.
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| PCT/JMT southbound |
Ahead of be I could see people, like tiny dark specs, crossing the white snow fields on their way up to the pass. I could see also the first northbound backpackers of the day gliding down the snow fields. Soon I'll be crossing their path.
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| Glen Pass, view south |
Ice or not, there were wildflowers blooming along the trail. Some of the wildflowers were just beginning to bloom.
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| Cushion Buckwheat, Eriogonum ovalifolium |
Other plants were well into their bloom season, at peak bloom when I passed them on my way up to the pass.
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| Wax Currant, Ribes cereum |
It didn't take long before I reached the first snow field. It was on a fairly mild slope but I decided that it was a fine time to break in those micro spikes I was gifted by the Swiss backpacker just yesterday. She was correct in her suggestion that having the micro spikes on my shoes would boost my confidence in traversing the snow.
One of the reasons it was good to have waited until morning with crossing Glen Pass was that the snow was still hard from the night's freeze, and not soft and slushy. Soft and slushy snow is harder to traverse and easier to slip and slide on.
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| A zoomed in close-up view of the higher part of Glen Pass |
I reached those little lakes that were marked on my map just below Glen Pass. When I saw the lakes I was glad that I camped where I did and didn't try to get to these lakes. They were beautiful, but in a very arctic sort of way. The entire area of those lakes was completely exposed. It would have been much colder there, and more windy. There weren't even good size boulders there to provide any privacy. In short, the guy I met last evening before I camped was accurate in discouraging me from camping there.
At a close up view, the area wasn't truly arctic at all - any crevice free of snow had plants growing in, and many of them were blooming.
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| Northern Goldernrod, Solidago multiradiata |
More and more people were coming down from the pass now. This was good because in some cases it wasn't very clear as to where the path was, there were so many tracks on the snow to choose from. Already familiar with how snow covered trails go, I knew that the path doesn't necessarily match the actual trail. It was better to follow the trenches carved in the snow by the hikers before me.
The next snow fields were at a much steeper grade and I was very thankful for having the micro spikes. I did take them off in between the snow fields though, and it was a bit of a bother to put them on before each snow patch. I was carrying them hanged on my backpack's waist belt for easy access.
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| View down one of the snow fields after I ascended it. |
Higher up the slope I started seeing more of the little Alpine lakes of melted snow below the pass. They looked very blue, showing no signs of algae growth or any other visible life. That will change as summer progresses and the water warms.
The entire bowl north of the trail was still very much under snow on the steeper, east-facing slope. I do have a slight desire to hang more time in these areas and explore them a bit more. Just like any other time I was in such a place however, I simply moved on.
Many Alpine wildflowers were blooming in the places already yielded by the retreating snow. There wasn't any real soil there, just granite gravel in various sizes. For the granite draba and other Alpine plants that was plenty.
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| Granite Draba, Draba lemmonii |
Even places that I would hardly consider as plant real estate were occupied by a number of flora species. All looked very healthy and thriving.
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| Club-moss Ivesia, Ivesia lycopodioides |
In some of the exposed areas the trail was visible. That didn't mean it was easy - the stairs were mule size, and in this hour they were still icy in many places.
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| PCT/JMT southbound, Glenn Pass |
In other places where the trail was covered under snow it was easier to scramble around it on the scree rather than to climb the snow. I didn't have to think to hard about these options, I simply followed the tracks left by everyone that preceded me.
It was the third day of my trip but the altitude still had affected me.
Each time I paused to catch my breath I would look at the view. Far below me were Middle and Upper Rae Lakes, quiet and inviting. Perhaps I'd go sometime on the entire Rae Lakes loop and spend some more time near these beautiful lakes.
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| Upper and Middle Rae Lakes |
After slow scrambling uphill it was time to put on the micro spikes for the last and largest snow field. Behind me a large group of young men were climbing fairly quickly. They were far enough below me still that I didn't want to wait for them to pass me. On the other hand I knew that they would likely gain on me soon, so I didn't linger. I stretched the micro spikes on my shoes and started up the snow path.
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| Glen Pass |
The last bit of trail leading the Glen Pass was an almost horizontal trench, curved into the snow by many feet. This was also the easiest part of getting up to the pass. By the time I made it to the end the first of the men's group was at my heels.
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| The trench |
As soon as I reached the crest of the pass I sat down and removed the micro spikes. The group that came up behind me had passed me and were vocally enjoying the view but my attention was already given to something else - a sky pilot was blooming right at the pass. This gorgeous wildflower blooms in high altitudes only. The first time I've seen it was in September 2022 on Mount Whitney.
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| Showy Sky Pilot, Polemonium eximium |
South of Glen Pass, just below the crest was a beautiful little lake. The guy I talked with the evening before had told me that there were no suitable campsites in that area but even without magnification I could see that he was mistaken on that one - at the south tip of the lake was a small grove of trees. Using my camera's magnification I could see between the trees some flat areas that were used for camping. Not that it mattered - I was happy that I didn't try to go over the pass last night, but it would be good to remember if I ever came back that way another time. I did however, marked that place in my mind for where to stop for lunch.
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| Glen Pass, view south |
Descending the south slope of Glen Pass was easy and quick. The trail had many switchbacks and was mostly free of snow. What little snow there was, it was easy to bypass.
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| PCT/JMT southbound |
Here also I saw a good number of Sierra primrose, the same species I saw on the western slope of Baxter Pass two days before.
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| Sierra Primrose, Primula suffrutescens |
I reached the little nameless lake below Glen Pass. It was a bit early but I decided to have my lunch there and let the large group of men that descended with me to continue on. Once they were gone I could have my break in solitude and enjoy the peaceful Alpine surrounding, where the loudest sound was that of trickling water.
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| Lunch Lake |
After lunch I continued downhill into a relatively narrow gorge cut by the tributary of Charlotte Creek that the trail run through. I didn't realize at the time (and sadly, not until almost the end of my backpacking trip) that dirty splashes of snow had made their way to the camera lens, 'decorating' all of my subsequent photos with annoying smidges. Worse than the stains - the lens also got cracked. It was a tiny crack, and it was off to the side of the lens but it did result in a small blurry spot in the lower middle of my photos. The dirt I was able to wipe off on the next day but the lens was ruined. The blurry spot I had to deal with until I returned home, where the cracked lens was replaced.
The trail curved to the west. Another small lake appeared further down the trail. This lake was partially frozen still, and there was no inviting area to stay near it - no trees, and no easy access to the water. That lake wasn't a good one to camp by.
I continued westward, down the gorge until the mountain ridges separated and the trail leveled for a while. I started seeing more wildflowers and of different species too.
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| False Rock-loving Cinquefoil, Drymocallis pseudorupestris |
After the group of men had passed me on their way south below Glen Pass the trail grew more quiet. I still run into other hikers but there were fewer of them, and further between. I suppose it was really lunch time now and other backpackers might be taking their break.
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| PCT/JMT southbound |
A cute little pond came into view behind one of the trail curves. Like the other ponds at this altitude, it was formed by melted snow.
A little bird hopped by the pond's shore. It was a rosy finch - my third sighting of this species on this trip. I snapped a number of photos and moved on.
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| Gray-crowned Rosy Finch |
There were a few more snow patches on the trail but they were easy to either bypass or walk across. As I was getting lower, the snow patches were gone too.
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| Eschscholz's Buttercup, Ranunculus eschscholzii |
The trail took a deep curve to the south. I dropped my jaw seeing the view around the curve - it was a gorgeous valley, carved by glaciers then and now by Charlotte Creek. Far down that gorgeous gorge, Charlotte Creek meets Bubbs Creek which, in turn, meets with Kings Creek of Kings Canyon National
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| Charlotte Creek Valley |
Soon Charlotte Lake became visible, far below the trail. I think that if I ever get to hike the Rae Lakes Loop I'd take a couple extra days just to explore the side trails along the loop, including the one to Charlotte Lake.
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| Charlotte Lake |
It was early afternoon when I passed by Charlotte Lake. Nothing was left of the night's freeze and the morning's chill. Thankfully, it didn't get too hot. The weather remained nice and warm.
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| Nuttall's Sandwort, Sabulina nuttallii |
I was making good progress, stopping only here and there to look at wildflowers and to take some photos.
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| Groundsel, Senecio sp. |
The trail was quiet now. I think that segment of trail was the longest of the PCT that I've walked through without seeing other hikers.
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| PCT/JMT southbound |
Here too the soil was granite gravel, but there was more of it and the gravel was finer, even sandy in places, and there was more plant cover in the spaces between larger rocks.
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| Umber Pussytoes, Antennaria umbrinella |
Sierra penstemon was among the bloomers on that part of the trail. I was surprised that I didn't see many of them. I remember the Sierra penstemon being more common in similar areas. Perhaps it wasn't a good year for this species.
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| Sierra Penstemon, Penstemon heterodoxus |
I reached the trail junction to Charlotte Lake. I already knew I wasn't going to take the detour to visit Charlotte Lake on this trip and I wasn't about to linger at the junction, but a laminated, handwritten note placed at the bottom of the junction sign caught my eye. It warned against bear activity in the area.
That entire area I have descended into was nicely forested with pine trees. There were a number of different pine species. They were all pretty but my favorite were the majestic-looking foxtail pines.
There's a saying that trees die upright. While this isn't a a generalized truth, it certainly is true for many trees, and the foxtail pines are look artistically majestic in their death.
I was approaching the next trail junction, where I'd have to decide whether to split from the PCT/JMT and go to Kearsarge Pass on the higher trail or to continued a bit on the PCT/JMT before taking the lower trail through Kearsarge Lakes to the Kearsarge Pass. I stopped contemplating when I came upon a single rosy finch, right there by the trail, foraging near me without being bothered by my presence. It was my forth sighting of this species n my trip, and the first one in a forest settings.
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| Gray-crowned Rosy Finch |
I reached the trail junction with the high, direct trail leading to Kearsarge Pass. It was early enough still and I knew that I could go over the pass today. To do that however, I'd need to take the high trail to the pass, and my concern was water. When I reached the trail junction where I could turn east to Kearsarge Pass I had about one third of a liter left. According to my map there wasn't a reliable water source on the high trail. The alternative would be to go down the low trail which goes by the Kearsarge Lakes but that would make my trail longer and most likely my day would end at the Kearsarge Lakes, leaving the pass for the morrow.
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| Spreading Phlox, Phlox diffusa |
The distance from the junction to Kearsarge Pass was about 2.5 miles. The weather was warm, not hot, and it was early enough in the season so I thought there was a good chance that there will be a water source on the path. With careful drinking, I decided to take the high trail. If that choice would prove to be a mistake, I could take the connector trail going down to Kearsarge Lakes, just below the final stretch going up to the pass itself. I said goodby to the PCT/JMT and took the turn to to on the Kearsarge Pass Trail.
Less than five minutes up the trail I could hear people's voices ahead. Soon I came upon a small group of backpackers that were talking with a single park ranger. I grabbed my chance and asked about water on the high trail, and the ranger answered happily that indeed there was water - about a mile up the Kearsarge Pass Trail there was a flowing creek, she said. Hearing that, I sat down, gulped the rest of my water, saving only a small sip for emergency, and had a snack. After that I bade farewell to the others and started marching up the Kearsarge Pass Trail.
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| Kearsarge Pass Trail, west |
Further up the trail the view opened up, revealing a gorgeous lake in the valley below. This was Bullfrog Lake (I really hope there were no actual bullfrogs there). I found out later that camping near Bullfrog Lake wasn't allowed. Not that I was planning on it.
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| Bullfrog Lake |
East of Bullfrog Lake stretched Kearsarge Valley. I could see far below the lower trail that went from the PCT/JMT all the way to Kearsarge Lakes below that pass. Through my camera lens I could even see hikers walking on that trail.
What I did focus on however, was the wetland area where the creek was entering Bullfrog Lake. It looked very colorful.
For most of its length the Kearsarge Pass Trail runs on a very mild
slope. It wasn't as crowded as the PCT/JMT but I did see quite a few
people hiking that trail. Most of them were PCT/JMT thru hikers that
were on their way to or from the town of Independence to resupply. I also met for the first time on my trip, a few day hikers on this trail. Two of them were still going west - they wanted to go to Charlotte Lake. They looked very fit and they did walk fast but I suspected that they'll be back at their camp after dark. The other day hikers I met were already on their way east, wrapping up their day's journey. I asked the hikers that came down from the pass and they told me there was zero snow on the trail. They also confirmed that there was a running creek coming up where I could fill up my water bottles.
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| Kearsarge Pass Trail, west |
My wildlife count of the day so far was ok but not stellar. I did see rosy finches twice, as well as some other birds and a bunch of insects, but that was it. I've also seen one of them wolf spiders on my way up Glen Pass and now I saw another one of them going up to Kearsarge Pass.
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| Thin-legged Wolf Spider |
My big sighting of the trip however, was just around the cornier - an American Pika! Not only did I see the pike, but it was also quite chill about me being there, admiring and taking multiple photographs. This usually very shy rodent was completely out in the open. It regarded me for a minute or so and I assumed that it found me not dangerous because it went on to munch on nearby grasses. I was the one who left the area first.
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| American Pika |
So far the trail was very dry but higher up I started seeing evidence of moisture, moistly in the form of wetland plants such as the shootingstar.
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| Alpine Shootingstar, Primula tetrandra |
I didn't see any surface water yet, and I was getting thirsty again. Allowing myself a short pause and a small sip, I took a deep breath and enjoyed the view and the wildflowers.
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| Wavyleaf Paintbrush, Castilleja applegatei |
For the first time since turning on the Kearsarge Pass Trail I had a direct view of Kearsarge Pass, far ahead, on the left. It looked close enough but I already knew that looks can be deceiving. The trail however, was good, and there was no indication that there would be any trouble up ahead.
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| Kearsarge Pass view east |
I was getting impatient now - where was that creek that the ranger spoke of? Well, it was hiding behind a curve of the trail. I was very glad to see it. I also saw there one of the men that were speaking with the ranger back at the junction. I wasn't sure when he got ahead of me but there he was, filtering water from the creek. I dropped my backpack, pulled out my empty bottles and the filter and went to kneel by the water.
We had a nice chat, the other guy and me, while we filtered water into our bottles. He was new to backpacking, he told me. He decided to go on this trip after he retired. He was on his way back now, back to his home and family. I was too, but not immediately, I told him, but before going home I would
summit the White Mountain Peak. The man wished me luck and continued on. I decided to stay longer by the creek to rest and and to eat a more serious meal - the walk made me hungry. I also enjoyed the company of a small gray bird that perched atop of a willow bush nearby.
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| Dusky Flycatcher |
Somehow it is harder for me to get going after a long break. For a while after my break at the creek I was going at a slower pace.
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| Western Roseroot, Rhodiola integrifolia |
It took me some time to resume a faster, more steady pace. Part of the difficulty was also because I kept stopping to admire the views. Now that I was at a higher altitude, the view was really fantastic. I was right on top the eastern part of Kearsarge Valley, and across the valley rose the dark wall of the Kearsarge Pinnacles, like the jagged edge of e serrated blade.
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| Kearsarge Valley |
As it turned out, the creek I stopped at earlier wasn't the last one on my way to the pass, although it was the nicest one. Further up the trail I came across another creek, thinner and muddier. I could have taken water from that one too had I needed, but my bottles were already full and I was well hydrated.
I did have to bypass a flooded section of the trail where there was a lot of mud. In between bloomed wetland wildflowers such as more shootingstars and also the brush-like American bistorts.
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| American Bistort, Bistorta bistortoides |
That little muddy creek was the last fresh water on my path. The trail was dry after that, although it was green everywhere, evidence for the recently thawed snow.
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| Kearsarge Pass Trail, west |
Here too the wildflowers were numerous, although most of the species I've already seen earlier on my trip.
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| Northern Indian Parsnip, Cymopterus terebinthinus |
All of the wildflowers here were also at peak bloom, making the most of the short growth season of the high mountain summer.
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| Brewer's Cinquefoil, Potentilla breweri |
Although my uphill progress was on a very mild slope, I did gain altitude with each step, and I was feeling it. Still energetic though, I kept a good pace going.
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| Subalpine Fleabane, Erigeron glacialis |
Far below the Kearsarge Lakes were making their appearance, shining like jewels between the trees and granite rocks. They were far away and I had to use maximal magnification to get a good view of the lakes.
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| Kearsarge Lake |
I returned my attention to my closer surroundings. To the wildflowers and the beautiful groves of pine trees that adorned this side of the mountains.
Small gray spots in the gravel grabbed my attention. I leaned forward and my heart leapt - these tiny, gray plants were the pygmy mountain parsley - one of the unique high altitude plants that I feel very fortunate when I get to see.
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| Pygmy Mountain Parsley, Oreonana clementis |
A mile past the creek where I had my break I reached the junction with the cutoff trail leading down to Kearsarge Lakes. This was the last place where I could make the decision of where to spend the night - should I go down to the lakes and get over the pass tomorrow or should I push on and find a campsite east of kearsarge Pass?
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| Kearsarge Lakes |
It was getting late in the afternoon but I still had about three hours or so of daylight left. I thought of the second day of my trip and how pushing on late in the day got me very close to night walking on a shady trail. The Kearsarge Pass trail however, was in great condition and I didn't anticipate any obstacles. I also wanted to leave the wilderness early enough on the morrow because I knew how long it'll take me to drive up to the White Mountain Peak Trailhead. In short, I decided to go ahead and over the Kearsarge Pass.
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| Kearsarge Pass Trail, west |
I had also a third, more subtle reason for choosing to not go down to Kearsarge Lake that time. I knew that going down there only for a night's stay would leave me very unsatisfied. I really want to go back to that area in the foreseeable future for a more thorough exploration.
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| Mountain Wallflower, Erysimum perenne |
A golden-mantled ground squirrel came from behind a granite stone. It eyed me for a moment, then scurried back into hiding. Other than the pika I saw earlier, I had no luck with the local rodents.
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| Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel |
On the last leg up Kearsarge Pass I was on my own. No other hikers were coming up behind me, and I didn't see anyone descending westward from the pass.
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| Kearsarge Pass Trail |
The high part of the trail looked very arid and naked. At a closer look however, I saw many of them little Alpine plants between the granite stones. The area was as alive as any other zone I've walked through.
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| Rockcress, Boechera sp. |
I even got to see more of the sky pilot plants blooming near the crest of the Kearsarge Pass.
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| Showy Sky Pilot, Polemonium eximium |
At the crest of the pass was a large sign labeling Kearsarge Pass marking the altitude at 11,760 ft and the boundary of Kings Canyon National Park, which I was about to leave. I turned around and looked west onto Kearsarge Valley. There were the Kearsarge Lakes, and further west was Bullfrog Lake, shining in the early evening sun.There were the Kearsarge Pinnacles and the rest of the mountains that crowned this valley. I sure would like to go there again. Maybe I'll get luckier getting the permit next time.
I turned my back on Kings Canyon National Park. Another, different looking sign welcomed me into the John Muir Wilderness of Inyo National Forest. Below me was the gulch leading to Onion Valley
As soon as I stepped across the divide I was within the evening realm, under the mountain's shadow. Right below me was a small Alpine lake which was already completely in the shade. There was no access trail to the lake and it didn't look like a very hospitable place to cam anyway.
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| Big Pothole Lake |
The mountain shadow extended ahead of e but the sunny area wasn't far away. I increased my pace, hoping to catch the sun still.
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| Sierra Primrose, Primula suffrutescens |
I was able to reach the sunny area and for a short time I basked in the illusion that I was walking faster than the earth's rotation.
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| Kearsarge Pass Trail, east |
Circular groves of stunted whiteback pines dotted the eastern slopes of the Kearsarge Pass. I didn't take any time to get a closer look though - I had a long way down still before there was any suitable camping site.
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| Whitebark Pine, Pinus albicaulis |
I did pause however, when I came upon an area that was purple with Davidson's penstemon plants in bloom.
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| Davidson's Penstemon, Penstemon davidsonii |
Then came a series of long switchbacks which ended at a pretty plateau with many pine trees and a large patch of old snow. A flat, gravel-clean area between the trees indicated that someone had camped there at some point. For a I contemplated camping there. There was no surface water there, but I still had plenty of camp fuel so I could melt and boil the snow. Eventually I decided to go on a bit longer. I didn't leave before taking a photo of the cute finch that was looking at me from one of the pine trees.
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| Fox Sparrow |
Fast as I walked down the trail, the Earth was faster still. It didn't take long after I moved on that the mountain's evening shadow caught up with me. A couple of minutes after that I had to drop my back pack and pull out my puffy jacket and my warm hat.
I was beginning to get weary, and I could feel my legs throbbing. It would be nice to find a campsite soon. A few more switchbacks below I saw a little lake that looked like a nice place to camp at. The trail however, took a curve that led me away from that lake and I saw no side path splitting off in that direction.
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| Heart Lake |
It took another long set set of switchbacks before another suitable place for camping came into view below me. It was a small mountain creek next to a forest stand where I could spot a couple of campsites marked with circles of stones.
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| Headwaters of Independence Creek |
It took me another 15 minutes to get there, including having to go around yet another snow patch, the last one of this trip.
A faint, unofficial foot path led me to that area I saw from above. I found me the largest stone circle and pitched my tent there. The light was fading quickly now, so I cooked dinner, filled my water bottles, and sat outside my tent until the night took hold of the upper Onion Valley.
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| The campsite before pitching my tent |
Great views and the Pika is really cute, but the begining and the end of the day sounds very challenging
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