Into the East Bay's Vault of Nature: Backpacking the Ohlone Wilderness, Day 1

Sunol Regional Wilderness

Date: May 21, 2021

Place: Ohlone Regional Wilderness, between Sunol and Livermore, California

Coordinates: 37.516284, -121.831945

Length: 3.7 Miles

Level: Strenuous 

Twice before I attempted to backpack the Ohlone Wilderness Trail, attempts that failed, the first because of stormy weather and the second because of illness. A few years passed since those attempts, and when I started training for the Mount Shasta expedition I knew right away that this was my chance: that backpacking this long-desired trail would be part of my preparation to summit Mount Shasta. 

Ohlone Wilderness Trail is a great hike by its own right. It is local for me, it is simple to obtain the permits, and it features the best that the East Bay has to offer. The full length trail stretches from the west base of Mission Peak in Fremont all the way to Del Valle Regional Park in Livermore. Having hiked Mission Peak numerous times, including a recent one way hike through the peak from Ed Levin Park in Milpitas to Ohlone College in Fremont, I decided to skip this part and enter the trail from Sunol Regional Wilderness. 

Alameda Creek near the Visitor Center in Sunol 

My next step was to look for a partner to hike with. I don't mind solo trips but having company is safer and usually more fun too. Pappa Quail wasn't to join me on this - he stayed home with the chikas. All of my friends whom I invited couldn't join me at the time so I decided to post an invitation on a local hiking group i'm a member of. I had booked permits for two people assuming that I'll either find one companion or go on my own. As it happened, there were two who were interested in joining, so I booked a third permit and replaced the two person tent with a four person tent. I had met each of my would be partners separately and they had met each other for the first time on the day we set out. 

That day, Pappa Quail drove with me to Del Valle, where we parked one vehicle and returned home. At noon my two companions arrived, each in her own car. After a few minutes of introductions and organizing, the three of us got into one of my new companions's car and we took off to Sunol. 

It was Friday, early in the afternoon, and there were very few people around. We made final adjustments to our backpacks and headed out on the trail. 

Our hike from Sunol Regional Park's Visitor Center to Stewart's Camp as captured by my GPS

The first day was to be a short one - less than four miles to our first campsite. It was however, all uphill, and we were carrying heavy packs. 

The first mile and a half I knew very well because I've hiked it many times, alone or with the 4H Hiking Project, or with my family hiking group. It was easy for me to slide right into the hiking leader mode and tell my companion all that I knew about this place and its history and nature. Speaking of nature, I was very happy to see the mariposa lilies blooming along the trail - it was high season for these lovely flowers. 

Yellow Mariposa, Calochortus luteus 

A couple of weeks before this hike there was still some green in these East Bay hills, but now the grass was completely dry and yellow. I was amazed at how quickly that change took place. We've ad such a miserable winter with so little precipitation that the grass did not grow high at all. the expects said that the low grass was less of a fire hazard but unfortunately fires did ravage California this summer as well. Thankfully, the Bay Area was spared this time. 

We were going constantly uphill with no letup and one of my companions started lagging behind, having to adjust her pack again and again. As we waited for her at the top of one of the steeper bouts I looked back and admired the sight of Flag Hill - that beautiful rise right above the park's visitor center. I hiked up that hill a few years ago and I was glad to have a nice full view of this hill from where I now stood. 

Flag Hill

By mid-May the grass of the East Bay hills was completely dry and yellow. The oaks however, were very green. Most of the oaks along our path were the coast live oak and whenever they were separated from one another, they grew into great size and impressive shapes. A good portion of my computer image memory is taken by photos of inspiring oak trees. 

Coast Live Oak, Quercus agrifolia 

Higher up the trail we started seeing white mariposa lilies. Fr some reason this species's common name is also yellow mariposa, perhaps because of the yellow spots inside the petals. 

Yellow Mariposa Lily, Calochortus superbus 

We turned onto McCorkle Trail and walked through a greener area of low chaparral. There were some others wildflowers there and a patch of grass that was still somewhat green, and we stopped there for a short breather break. 

Pearly Everlasting 

From that trail junction we could see the Calaveras Reservoir and the quarried hill next to it. I pointed out to my companions Mount Hamilton, way far in the back, to the right. 

For a short distance McCorke Trail overlapped with the Cerro Este Road, which is a wide dirt road. Once again we were going uphill and our pace slowed down. I wasn't concerned - even at a slow pace I we were making good time and would be in our reserved campsite well before dark. I took advantage of the slow pace to enjoy the wildflowers we were passing on our way. 

California Poppy, Eschscholzia californica

A few years ago I did a solo day hike to that campground. I had walked east on the Camp Ohlone Road, which is the trail that's right by the Alameda Creek, and then I climbed a steep trail to the wilderness campground, just to see how it looked like. I did that hike on a very hot day in June and I remembered how grueling that climb at the end was. 

This time I was approaching the campground from the McCorkle trail, which covers the height difference at a much milder slope. Once we turned left onto Cerro Este trail, its part that overlapped with the McCorkle Trail, and remained with the McCorkle Trail, I was on a terrain that was new for me. Looking out to the northeast the East Bay hills appeared to stretch endlessly into the horizon. Rugged and wild, it was a landscape I could easily lose myself in for a much longer time. 

View of the Ohlone Wilderness 

We reached a [lace where we had a splendid view of the Calaveras Reservoir. This reservoir is filled by a tributary of the Alameda Creek. It's dam was recently replaced in a lengthy project that took over six years to complete and had caused the shut down of the family campground and the running water facilities in Sunol Regional Park. 

Calaveras Reservoir

A sole pillar marked the junction where the Cerro Este Trail split again from the McCorkle Trail. We paused there to pose for photos and to drink water. My two companions were chatting together and I found myself lagging somewhat behind, somewhat relieved that I didn't need to be engaged in too intense socializing. This arrangement was just what I needed: I had company but I didn't feel any pressure to entertain anyone. I could still lose myself in my own thoughts as I often do when hiking solo. 

Sunol Regional Wilderness

We were getting to the last part of this day's hike. The day was hot but not too much. One of my companions soon started lagging again. Unused to the physical demand which was added on by the heat, she need to go at a slower pace. 

Sunol Regional Wilderness

My other companion had a different mindset - once starting on an incline she was reluctant to stop until she reached the top. I didn't mind the sow pace at all. It gave me a good excuse to pose by each wildflower I saw and to give it due attention. 

Harvest Brodiaea, Brodiaea elegans 

A cattle gate with a sign marked our passing out of Sunol Regional Wilderness into the Ohlone Wilderness. The sign stated that from now on, anyone hiking beyond that sign has to have a permit. Behind that sign was also the campground where our campsite was for the night, All we needed to do now was to find it. 

California Buckeye, Aesculus californicus 

Finding our reserved campsite wasn't an easy thing. At that campground there are eight different campsites, all well separated from one another and at some significant distance from the single pit toilet and the single water spigot that served all sites.   Our site wasn't one of the two lower sites, meaning we had to ascend some more, to the chagrin of my tired companion. 

Ithuriel's Spear, Triteleia laxa 

On the other hand, it wasn't as far from the toilet and the water source as were some of the other sites. We walked the last bit of access trail at a slow pace and I charted in my head the locations and distances of all the useful and interesting features the the campground. And I also found a trap spider webbed hole, which was very cool. 

Ore campsite was removed from the main trail by a stretch of about 200 yards of really narrow trail that was overgrown by poison oak in the beginning, and by thistles in the end. We had to do some bushwhacking to get to our designated site. I think it was one of the least used ones. 

Our campsite had one wiggly table with many thistles growing very close to it. There was a small flat area that could accommodate a small, two person tent. Our tent was a four person tent so we needed to do some clearing work to fit our tent in that location, and to be able to sit at the table without getting thorns in our backsides. 

Sycamore Camp

All that work was much more tiring than the hike itself. Once everything was done and the tent pitched and ready for sleep we got to making dinner and tell stories until bed time. On a full stomach and with no more work to do that day it was easy to get to appreciate the beauty of that site, even though it has fallen into neglect. A beautiful buckeye in bloom had perfumed our location with its sweet fragrance. 

California Buckeye, Aesculus californicus 

And we had a great view of the sunset, too. 

Sunset 

Once the sun had set, the temperatures dropped sharply and sitting outside with no campfire (wasn't allowed at that location) had become unpleasant. My companions slipped into the tent and I lingered a bit longer, enjoying the peace and solitude of the early night before following my friends into the tent. 

Link to the post of Day 2 of the Ohlone Wilderness Trail backpacking trip.

A Great Open Space to Expand the Soul at: Hiking at Calero County Park

Calero Reservoir

Date: May 6, 2021

Place: Calero County Park, San Jose, California

Coordinates: 37.174634, -121.761347

Length: 10 miles

Level: moderate 

Taking seriously my commitment for a rigorous training regime before going on the Mount Shasta expedition, I decided to schedule at least one strenuous hike each week before that. I was glad to have my friend join me on several of these. When she could join, I would plan the hike in the South Bay, making it easier for her to return home on time for her duties. Calero County Park was ideal for us: great location with good terrain with plenty of elevation changes. It was also on my wanna go there list for quite some time, having passed it so many times on my way to and from Uvas Canyon County Park. 

Our hike as captured by my GPS

I met my friend at the parking lot and with little delay we got going on the trail. I had planned a long loop that will take us near the reservoir and up the hills. This time we had plenty of time for the long trail I had planned and didn't need to rush it as we had done on our previous hike in Briones Regional Park. It was a lovely day, sunny, and with little breeze. We started at a good pace. 

Near the trailhead

The coast live oaks are great trees to look at, especially when they are standing alone and have enough space to develop their unique shape and 'personality'. We saw many of inspiring oak trees along the trail, in dense areas and alone. 

Right from the start we were noticing wildlife. The easiest to see of course were the stationary ones, such as the trap spiders. The traps, at least. I assume the spider was inside. 

Soon after we saw a cute little bunny hopping near the edge of the trail. These cottontail rabbits are common in the area but they are very skittish and I don't get to see them all that often. This one too soon disappeared in the vegetation. 

Cottontail Rabbit

My friend had told me numerous times that she likes best the open hills landscape. She had loved our hike at Briones Regional Park despite our tight time and now she was totally happy with the open views of Calero County Park. 

Early May is the best time to see the buckeye trees in full bloom, when they look like great white-candled chandeliers, their sweet fragrance fills the air, and the buzzing of their numerous pollinators dominates the hike's soundtrack. 

California Buckeye, Aesculus californicus 

We were nearing Calero Reservoir. We had decent view of the lake but our trail never got near the water. There was a trail leading down to the shore but we remained on the upper trail and didn't go down to the lake. 

Calero Reservoir

We were too far to see any waterfowl in the lake but we did see terns flying overhead, and I even manage to photograph one of them. 

Caspian Tern

As we turned the curve Mount Umunhum came into view. Less than two weeks before I saw it on my Almaden Quicksilver hike and now it was beaconing me again. I told my friend that one of our next hikes we should go there and she agreed with me. I've hiked there with my family before but only on the downhill direction. 

Mount Umunhum

The trail meandered along the curves of the lake and eventually turned south and uphill away fro the water. The open grassland cover of the south-facing hillside was already turning dry and yellow. 

On the other side of the trail the green lingered longer and there were some wildflowers blooming still. Not many though. The bloom was really weak last spring. 

Bugle Hedge Nettle, Stachys ajugoides 

A couple of turkey vultures circled the sky above us, coming really close at times. For some time they seemed to be following us, but flew away after I reassured them that we were not about to expire any time soon. 

Turkey Vulture

Turning east the trail plunged into a oak-forested area. It also got steeper and we were finally getting the workout I was hoping for. 

It looked like at some point earlier the ground was very muddy. When it dried the earth cracked into polygons. A single caterpillar was making its way through that 3D jigsaw puzzle, determined to get across the trail. 

Although most oaks we've seen at the park were live oaks, there were plenty of impressive-looking valley oaks as well. We paused under a shady oak to drink some water and catch out breath before moving on eastward. 

The reason for the weak bloom display last spring was the dry winter that preceded it. Of what did bloom, the dominant color was blueish-purple. I read somewhere that many same-color wildflowers bloom simultaneously and attract the same type of pollinators. The most common pollinator I've seen on this hike were bumblebees. There were many of them all over the place, all appearing heavy-laden with pollen. Constantly on the move, they weren't easy to photograph, but I did manage to capture one as it was feasting on the blue witch solanum.  

Blue Witch, Solanum umbelliferum, and a bumblebee

Another blue beauty Ive seen on that hike was the larkspur (named so after the elongated spur-looking nectary at the base of the flower, evolved to fit the long tongue of bees). There are many species of larkspur in the area and they're all too similar to one another for me to identify the species. 

Larkspur, Delphinium sp.

We curved northward for about half a mile and from that view point we could see the lake far below and further on the eastern horizon the bump of Mount Hamilton, easily identifiable by the white domes of the Lick Observatory on its summit. 

Mount Hamilton

We curved south again and after some distance of walking on the height of the hill we descended done a relatively steep grade back into a forested area. 

Many of the yellow composites bloom later in the season. May is a transition time and we saw some yellow composites on our hike. 

Woolly Sunflower, Eriophyllum lanatum 

At the bottom of our descent we had a surprise: a little pond with a neat rest area including a picnic table under a wooden shade, and an information board with a description of the wildlife that can be observed in the pond and vicinity. It was the perfect place to sit for a lunch break. We didn't see any of the wildlife depicted in the information board but we did hear a deep, mooing sound that came across from the pond area. We had a lengthy discussion about the sound's source - I thought it was a cow in distress and my friend thought it was too regular to be an animal and suggested a malfunctioning piece of machinery, such as a broken pump or something like that. In hind sight I think both of us were wrong and that this sound came from a bullfrog in the water. 

Fish Camp Rest Site

After our break we continued on eastward, once again in an open oak savannah, to my friend's delight. 

Te bloom color that dominated that trail segment was white, and of these, the morning glory was the most common. At the end of the hike I had so many good photos of morning glory that it was hard to choose one for this post.  

Hillside Morning Glory, Calystegia collina 

The yarrow is also a very common white bloomer. It is so common and bloom on such an extended season in fact, that although I photograph it on nearly every Bay Area hike, I very rarely post its photos anymore. While the yarrow is now a passing-by regular for me, the checkerspot butterfly isn't. 

Butterfly on Yarrow, Achillea millefolium 

Clarkia flowers are also very common in the Bay Area open grassland and there were several species of them blooming at the time. I often see them growing in significant size patches but last spring they were much fewer and most of them looked more stunted than I remembered from previous springs. 

Graceful Clarkia, Clarkia gracillis 

We continued southeast. After some up-down undulations the trail leveled. The day turned out to be a hot one, and we welcomed the shade of the oak trees whenever our path took us through the forested areas. 

Under the trees I saw the botanical highlight of the hike - the white globe lily. Last spring they bloomed later than usual, and after seeing their buds attenuated for nearly a month it was a pleasure to finally see them in bloom. 

White Globe Lily, Calochortus albus 

Further down the trail we run into (almost onto) another surprise - a large gopher snake that has spread itself across the path. I Frequently see them sunning themselves on hiking trails but this one was in the shade. It seemed healthy and well fed, and eyed us cautiously as we observed it and took photos. We admired it for a few long minutes and it didn't budge that entire time, only flicking it's tongue every now and them. Eventually we bade it farewell and continued on the hike. I hope that the numerous bicyclers we'd seen in the park were paying attention to the trail and avoided running over snakes. 

Gopher Snake 

The trail was descending again at a mild slope. Once again in the open we saw more clarkia flowers, of a different, wine-colored species. 

Purple Clarkia, Clarkia purpurea 

At the bottom of the hill we met with a wide, north-south trail and we turned north to complete our loop. There were many bicyclers on that trail and they were moving fast. We had to keep watching out for them and sometimes move quickly to the side. 

Sometimes a color makes it to the flower's name without it being very accurate. Nearly all of the blue dicks flowers I see are pink. 

Blue Dicks, Dicheostemma capitatum 

Around the curve we met another local resident - an alligator lizard. This one did dart away as soon as I raised my camera. Thankfully it paused long enough for me to capture it. 

Southwestern Alligator Lizard, Juvenile 

An odd one out - a relatively early bloomer yellow composite species. We were there in tine to see the last of the mule ears in bloom. 

Coast Range Muke Ears, Wyethia glabra 

On that northward part of our hike I got to see some pine trees here and there. These were native gray pines and they stood out nicely among the varying shades of broad-leaf trees's green.  

We closed our loop and started walking up the little connector trail that we started on, the one that would take us back to the parking lot. Little harvest brodiaea flowers peeked through the dry, yellow grass. 

Harvest Brodiaea, Brodiaea coronaria

On the final stretch of trail we came upon a group of red-winged black birds that filled the air with the sound of their trills. As we approached they all flew away except for one brave male who hanged by the trail side and shouted at us as we passed by. Eventually he too had left. 

Red-winged Blackbird

We made it back to the parking lot, said goodbye and drove off. It the time I had already booked the permits for my first backpacking trip of the year to Ohlone Wilderness, planned for less than two weeks away. I tried to tempt my friend into joining me but to no avail. We would have one more rigorous day hike before that backpacking trip though, and to a very different area: to the redwood forest of Purisima Creek Open Space. 

Thanks to my darling, Pappa Quail, for identifying the tern!