Showing posts with label Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park. Show all posts

Thursday, February 9, 2017

Life After Burning: The Fall Creek Kiln Hike at Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park


Date: January 25, 2016 and May 31, 2016
Place: Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, Fall Creek Unit, Felton, California
Coordinates: 37.049740, -122.083184
Length: 3.7 miles
Level: Moderate

A few years ago I stood at the Henry Cowell Redwoods Visitor Center and inquired about hiking trails. The docent suggested I'd check out the Fall Creek unit, a later addition to the State Park, across Hwy 9. The first time I hiked there I forgot my camera. The next time would be years later.
Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park is a patchwork of several land parcels that were donated and/or purchased over time. The latest of these additions is the Fall Creek Unit, which used to be a private land exploited for lime quarrying and a redwood logging until donated to the State of California in the year of 1972 by the Cowell Family Foundation.

The Fall Creek staging area is tiny and fills up very quickly. Every time I go there I make sure to arrive early, before the place fills up. The good side is, that the trail is not crowded as those of the main park's unit.
My hike as captured by my GPS
On January 2016 I was there with a friend visiting me from overseas. She grew up and lives still in a desert area, and saw this forest hike as a special treat.
Our hike begun with a short and steep downhill trail to the canyon of Fall Creek. There we took a left turn going northwest upstream along the creek.
January 25, 2016
A few days only after it had rained, the trail was still damp, even muddy in places. The vegetation was wonderfully lush and vibrant, and the forest undergrowth left very little earth to be seen.
Five Finger Fern, Adiantum aleuticum, January 25, 2016
Beads of condensed fog or misty rain that lingered from the previous night were trapped on the wide-spread leaves, and shone on spider web hammocks prettier than the best of jewels.
January 25, 2016
Fallen logs laid along the trail, cut and pushed aside by the park maintenance personnel. Some were quite recently cut, but others were already base for a small garden of mosses and mushrooms.
Turkeytail mushroom, and moss. January 25, 2016
The creek flow was nice and high. I wondered about the creek crossing that laid ahead but presently drove the thought out of my mind. We'd deal with it when we'd get there.
Fall Creek, January 25, 2016
Then we came upon one of the park residents. It is always a pleasure for me to see one of these redwood forest inhabitants. No hike in the redwoods is complete without meeting a banana slug.
Banana Slug
About a mile and a half into the hike we arrived at the trail split. We took the right turn and continued up the eastern tributary.
The trail split, January 25, 2016
Our path crossed the creek a couple of times, with no additional bridges. The widest of these crossing had a long wood plank that was laid across, but the creek was so swollen with water that it didn't actually bridge the banks. The water was fairly shallow there so we waded.
The water was also very cold.
January 25, 2016
The path continued upward with a mild slope. We hiked briskly, stopping every now and then to take a closer look at something interesting, like this pretty garden that sprouted on a rotting stump.
January 25, 2016
A mile further up the trail we passed another trail intersection, with the right branch leading north deeper into the woods. We kept left, soon turning back south, continually going up.
The odor of mushrooms was a strong component of the wet forest smell. Indeed there were mushrooms on the ground and on rotting logs, but I got the impression that although it was a wetter winter than the previous one, there were much fewer mushrooms now.  I wondered if more the fungi were investing their energies in the growth of their hyphae this year.
January 25, 2016
Eventually we got further from the eastern fork of Fall Creek, and after some more climbing we crossed over the hill to the basin of the west fork and begun descending down to the canyon below.
January 25, 2016
In the late 1800 the new settlers quarried lime for construction in this area. The quarrying involved blowing up bits of the mountains. Just before we met the creek we came upon the old explosives storage place. I peeked inside but there was nothing interesting to see there, just damp soil and rotten smell.
January 25, 2016
We reached the creek and crossed it. on the other side we saw the kilns that were used to cure the lime from the rocks. They were large brick structures that had no similarity with the linekilns I've seen at Limekiln State Park in the Big Sur.
The Lime Kilns. January 25, 2016
We took our break by the kilns, looking around and inside them, exploring the area. The lime quarry here had been in operation of about 70 years and these kilns were fed wood that was logged locally. I suppose that at the time the whole mountain was bare and looked like a disaster area.

As we continued down the trail we went by the big mound of quarry rubble that was left behind. The mound was growing trees and shrubs, and all the rubble stones were covered in moss and lichen. Give it a hundred more years and none of it would be visible.
Quarry Rubble. January 25, 2016
From there we went straight away down the creek, reconnecting with the main trail we came up on.

I hiked the very same trail twice last May, and on one of those times I remembered to bring my camera along. As expected, the trail was dry and there were plenty of other people hiking there as well - chances of human-free shots of the trail were few and far between.  The creek flowed lazily, and the water level was low; I had no worries about crossing the creek later on.
Fall Creek, May 31, 2016
There were also many flowers blooming along the creek and on the slopes. Even plants that are normally early bloomers still wore a few blossoms at the end of May.
Redwood Sorrel, Oxalis oregana. May 31, 2016
I was very excited to find a blooming orchid near the creek. I was less excited finding out later that it was an exotic species and not native to California. Still, an orchid is an orchid. Always beautiful.
Broadleaf helleborine, Epipactis helleborine, Non-native, May 31, 2016
A more common wildflower, and certainly a California native, is the hedgenettle, which was growing in large numbers along the trail.
Rough Hedgenettle, Stachys rigida, May 31, 2016
I am always amazed to see the change that spring brings to the forest. While most ephemeral flowers were already done, the late bloomers were going on strong, and the forest floor was alight with pretty colors.
Western Water Hemlock, Cicuta douglasii, May 31, 2016
This time I turned left at the trail split and ascended along the western branch to the limekilns. While my companions of the family hiking group examined the remains of the kilns I paid more attention to what grew on and around the crumbling structures.
California Milkwort, Polygala californica, May 31, 2016
And wherever there are flowers, there are their pollinators. And if the honeysuckle bloom, there would be the bees suckling on its sweets.
Pink Honeysuckle, Lonicera hispidula, May 31, 2016
From the kilns we went east up the hill and away from the creek on our way to the eastern tributary. Poison oak grew along the trail and, while keeping a safe distance, I appreciated its delicate beauty.
Poison Oak, Toxicodendron diversilobum, May 31, 2016
I was surprised to see milkmaids still in bloom at the end of May. There were only a few of then, bringing up the rear for this species' bloom season.
Milk Maids, Cardamine californica, May 31, 2016
The forest about Fall Creek is a mixture of trees, but the coast redwood is one of the more dominant trees there. None of the redwoods there is an old growth -  all save the Big Ben tree were logged decades ago. Old growth survivors can be seen in at the Redwood Grove in the main park area.
I don't know if the fall creek forest will become a mostly redwood forest again, but the young redwoods that I did see there were quite impressive. I hope they will be protected and become the old growth trees of the future.
Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens, May 31, 2016
The redwoods looked healthy and vibrant. I like seeing their new growth as it contrasts beautifully with the older needles.
Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens, May 31, 2016
Perhaps I should say that most of the redwoods looked healthy, because I did come upon a tree that had a resin-leaking burl, a sign of being diseased with something. I think that was the only time I've seen a diseased redwood and I sure hope hat didn't spread.
May 31, 2016
The redwood trees have their on community companions, like the redwood sorrel posted above, and the redwood violet below. Delicate and pretty, they complete the forest scenery.
Redwood Violet, Viola sempervirens, May 31, 2016
Crossing the creek in late May was no trouble at all. There was no need to wade across, but the weather was warm and many of our group wanted to wade and we spent some time hanging by the water.
May 31, 2016
Eventually, however, we moved back down the creek and rejoined the main trail from its eastern fork. 
Add caption, May 31, 2016
The wider canyon allowed more sunshine through the canopy, and I loved seeing the gleam of the broadleaf trees in the light.
Big Leaf Maple, Acer macrophyllum, May 31, 2016
I was fortunate to discover some ripe thimbleberry that hasn't been harvested by the hikers before us. I pointed it out to my elder chika and although I continued on I doubt she'd left any for the people behind us.
Western Thimbleberry, Rubus parviflorus, May 31, 2016
A great maple tree had fallen across the trail sometime between January and May, and the park's personnel had cleared the trail from the debris. The tree's canopy was all removed and the base of the trunk was nearly all uprooted and exposed to the air. A bit of the root crown was still in the ground though,, and it was enough for the tree to continue living. I looked with awe upon the new leaves it sprouted out of its trunk, evidence of the trees clinging to precious life.
Add caption, May 31, 2016
Well too late to see it in bloom, but the trillium always captivates me. They're also good redwood companions.
Pacific Trillium, Trillium ovatum, May 31, 2016
We were nearing the Fall Creek trail intersection. I was sorry that the hike would soon come to an end, but I was also looking forward to get relief from the heat.
White Alder, Alnus rhombifolia, May 31, 2016
We stopped by the creek just before the final ascend back to the parking lot. In a nice, shaded spot we sat down and told stories of forest fairies.
Then everyone when back up and I took a goodbye photo of Fall Creek before heading up the trail myself.
Fall Creek, May 31, 2016
The trail connecting Fall Creek with the parking area is short and steep. On my January hike I didn't stop to take photos there, but on May I had to - there were flowers blooming.
Woodland Madia, Anisocarpus madioides, May 31, 2016
Not so close to the creek it were the plants of drier land that were showing off their colors. And it was a pleasure to see.
Sticky Monkeyflower, Mimulus aurantiacus, May 31, 2016
From the parking lot it's a short distance to the main park's entrance and the big, old growth trees. I couldn't call it a day without paying them a visit too.





Monday, November 23, 2015

The Perfect Gift: Hiking the Pine Trail at Henry Cowell Redwoods SP

Pileated Woodpecker

Date: November 19, 2015
Place: Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, Felton, California
Coordinates:  37.031863, -122.041874
Length: 2.6 miles
Level: easy

I planned a special surprise for Papa Quail's birthday. I convinced him to take a day off from work, arranged with the babysitter to pick up the chikas from school, and I took him to the redwoods. The surprise was a canopy zipline tour in Mt. Hermon but we arrived there nearly 2 hours early so we went hiking in the nearby Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park.
I visit this park frequently enough, but nearly always I hike in the old growth area near the main park's entrance. This time we went to the campground on the east side of the park and hiked the lovely Pine Trail that goes in a wide loop around the campground.
Our hike as captured by Papa Quail's GPS
We parked near the campground's entrance booth and immediately plunged into the woods. Redwoods are not the prevalent tree species on that side of the park. Much more common are the oaks. Most common oaks there are the live oaks but valley oaks are quite common there s well. I saw quite a few nice, large valley oaks with distinct personalities that had me stand still and gape. Some of them even fit in my camera frame.
Valley Oak (Quercus lobata)
Some segments of the trail were completely roofed with oaks boughs, transforming it into a living tunnel.

As we curved around and started going south the trail broke out of the trees and into chaparral. The soil in that area is sand and the vegetation is very different than at the west side of the park.

Common chaparral member in that area are manzanita bushes. I always love to see their deep red branches. On this hike they also glistened with morning dew, still hanging on the bark even so late in the morning.

We heard the knocking of woodpeckers. Not surprising, the most common woodpecker there is the acorn woodpecker.
Acorn Woodpecker
But Papa Quail kept his ears open and soon spotted a hummingbird who drew attention to himself with his high-pitched buzz-like call .
Anna's Hummingbird
It was a bright, crispy-cool morning. I didn't notice any insects around. Papa Quail, however, noticed a dead leaf that was flying about in a non-dead leaf fashion. When that 'leaf' came to a rest it was nearly invisible - it's camouflage was so effective! Only by seeing where it had landed Papa Quail could tell where it was. And only in the enlarged photo I could tell it was a butterfly.

We continued on. While our trail was in chaparral, the valley below us was fully forested. A multi-level forest of oaks and Douglas fir. And then, the bright red fruit-laiden Pacific madrone.

From the campground the trail mildly slopes up towards an observation deck that's up on the hill. Up near the observation deck the chaparral subsides and spaced, knee-high shrubbery takes its place. One of the shrub species is the silver bush lupine, pretty with its palm-like leaves even without blossoms.
Silver Bush Lupine (Lupinus albifrons)
The observation deck provides a great panoramic view all around. We stayed there for some time, looking in all directions, appreciating the views and looking for birds.

It is up there on the hill that the pine trees after which the trail is named are most prominent. There too it is apparent that pines can have an attitude as well :-) 
The Trident. 
I would never have seen it. Papa Quail, however, has hawk's eyes. He pointed at a bare tree and informed me that one of the branch tips was, in fact, a bird. A cedar waxwing, to be exact. It was quite far but after straining with the binoculars I could see it too. 
A Cedar Waxwing, on the right, near the top. 
It's all downhill from the observation deck. We headed down a mildly descending slope southbound, back into the forest.
Pine Trail south of the observation deck.
Not all the conifers up on the hill were pines. Some were Douglas Fir that can be almost as majestic as redwoods. Almost.
Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
We walked briskly, keeping in mind that we had a deadline to meet. Still, there were too many interesting sights along the trail that I could not ignore. Like these galls, for example, which I previously seen on creosote bushes in the Southern California deserts.
Galls
Papa Quail too found reasons to stop. We heard bird calls and woodpecker knocks all around us. Sometimes we could see them too.
Hairy Woodpecker
While Papa Quail had is eyes trained on tree branches I had mine on the ground. Wet with recent rains, a carpet of lush moss covered every square centimeter that wasn't taken by higher plants.
Hair Moss (Polytrichum commune)
What area that wasn't overgrown with moss was taken over by lichen: a unique alga-fungus symbiotic organism.
Lichen
We curved with the trail again, heading back north toward the campground and the entrance road. For the first time in that hike we encountered redwood trees. Young and thin they were, but redwood nonetheless. All of the old growth trees in that area were logged during the gold rush and the development that followed.  Except for a small area of old growth trees by the park's main entrance, all the other redwoods in the area are under 100 years old.
Coastal Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens)
Because the redwoods there are so young and do not thoroughly shade the lower forest levels, other trees grow there too. Like the Pacific Madrone, for example.

We were nearing the end of our hike when a large bird flew by Papa Quail, and he followed it. When the bird came to landing Papa Quail uttered a single word, "Pileated," and hurried forward. 
My heart skipped a bit. For years we've been trying to see the pileated woodpecker, a magnificent bird that has proved to be very elusive. It isn't common in California, and while I did know that they've been regularly sighted at Henry Cowell Redwoods SP, I have never seen them there. 
I hurried after Papa Quail and looked at where he directed his camera. There it was: a male pileated woodpecker, standing high on a large, fruit-bearing madrone, feasting on the sweat, red berries. 
Pileated Woodpecker eating madrone berries.
Pileated woodpecker is the largest woodpecker in North America. It is the size of a crow. Still, it was quite far, and in between all the little branches, and it was hard to get a good quality photo. But then a wonderful thing happened: the woodpecker flew closer, landed on a tree right by the trail and posed!
Pileated Woodpecker, male
There couldn't be a better birthday gift for Papa Quail :-)



Many thanks to members of the California Native Plants Society for their help in identifying the moss!