Slip-Sliding On Top of the Big Snow: Cross Country At Mammoth Lakes

Lake Mary

 

 

Date: April 14, 2023

Place: Mammoth Lakes, California

Coordinates (of Tamarack Lodge): 37.618382, -119.006832

Length: Vista Loop 2 miles, moderate, and Lake Mary 3.5 miles easy

The winter of 2022-2023 was a record breaker for snow fall in the Sierra Nevada. I was eager to see some of that so on the young chika's spring break I took her skiing at Mammoth Mountain in the eastern Sierra, one of my favorite vacation spots. We took the long route looking for wildflowers on the way, like at Red Rock Canyon State Park, but once we arrived Mammoth Lakes, it was all skiing. Despite the two dry and warm weeks that preceded our arrival, everything was covered by a thick blanket of snow, and huge walls of snow barricaded the town's houses, and the streets looked like tunnels. We planned to ski for five days and following the lovely experience I had in Kirkwood earlier this winter, I decided to take the forth day there to go cross country skiing. My chika immediately announced that she wasn't into it, so I went on my own. On the day before however, I fell hard and bruised my chest but, seeing that I hadn't cracked anything, I decided to go anyway. 

View east from Mammoth Mountain

At the Tamarack Lodge where I rented the skis I also asked for recommendations for easy trails. I'm not a very good cross country skier and I was also hurting from yesterday's fall. The employee directed me towards Lake Mary and seeing that I had a few good hours, I thought to go all the way to Horseshoe Lake, where I hiked last summer with my sister. The day was bright and warm, and the snow was quickly turning slushy in the sunny areas. I was fairly early on the trail so the groomed grooves were still intact and smooth.

At the trailhead

Despite my extensive hiking experience, I do occasionally take the wrong turn. After huffing and puffing up the mild uphill slope, I turned left instead of right at the first junction. By the time I realized I was on the wrong trail it was too late to return, so I ended up skiing the Vista Loop Trail first.  

The Vista Loop Trail

I didn't suspect being on the wrong trail at first. The trail was good and the views were spectacular. I had some issue with the shaded spots under the trees where the top snow was still icy. Watching for the top ice slowed me down but but all and all I made a good progress and enjoyed the winter wonderland in a very spring-like weather.

Later I would understand why this trail was named 'Vista Loop'. From the high pint I could see far into the valley below.

Around the curve I had a good view of the eastern side of the Mammoth Mountain ski area. I could see the thin line of the ski lift and the tiny dots of people whirling down the slopes. I wondered where was my chika now and whether she was having fun, skiing all by herself.

Mammoth Mountain

It was on the downhill part that I started suspecting I was on the wrong trail. I remember wondering how can such a steep downhill be considered a 'green', easy trail. I got hesitant but decided to go for it and let myself go down a long slope on the groomed grooves, praising myself for maintaining my balance even going around the curve. When I cleared the curve however, I saw to my horror a group of people standing there, a short distance away from where the grooves terminated. It was under the trees again, and the snow was icy. Try hard as I could, there was now way I could safely stop before I reached the people so I intentionally wiped out so I won't crash into them. Once again I was hard on the icy snow, and my bruise from yesterday flared up.

Vista Loop Trail

One of the people helped me up. We exchanged some small talk and I went on my way, seemingly okay but with my confidence badly shaken. On the next slopes I simply took off the skies and walked down, feeling a failure. By then I also pulled out the little map I was given and verified that I was on the wrong trail, a 'blue' moderate trail meant for more experienced cross country skiers. I made it down back to the parking lot, having conflicting thoughts. My bruised body wanted me to get back to the lodge and relax for the rest of the day but my bruised ego said no way. I decided to have my lunch in the car and decide after that what to do next. It was funny to see how deep in the snow the cabins near the road were buried. Those cabins that were in use had tunnels dug to their doors and the roofs cleared, but many were still completely covered. 

Cabin near Tamarack Lodge

I had my lunch sitting at the tailgate of my car. I felt much invigorated after eating, and in better spirits. I decided to go out again, and this time on the intended trail.

Lake Mary Trail

The first mild uphill section was the same as before, except the snow was slushier and the sharp contrast between the slush and the still very icy shaded spots was much harder to maneuver. Also the grooves were more disrupted by other skiers. Unlike my nearly solitary experience in Kirkwood, here there were plenty other people on the trail.

Trail

This time I took the right turn, going on the right way to Lake Mary. It was also clear to me that I would not reach Horseshoe Lake on this outing. There wasn't enough time left for me to do that, not with my slow skiing. But I hoped to get at least to Lake Mary.

Mammoth Mountain

Mammoth Mountain had a record snowfall of over 800'' but the warm spring weather on the two weeks preceding our visit had thawed about a third of it. The rocks were being exposed quickly and I could almost see the the snow on the steep slopes shrinking away. What surprised me was how dry the exposed soil was. The fresh water was absorbed very quickly.

I don't remember when exactly it dawned on me that the trail I was skiing on was actually the asphalt road that I drove on last summer to get to Horseshoe Lake. The cross country trail system is the road system itself - unploughed and groomed, is was made available to skiers and hikers on snow shoes to enjoy their winter wonderland outdoors.

Lake Mary Road

Perhaps it was when I noticed the permanent road signs that I realized I was skiing on a groomed snow-covered road.

Watch for horses buried in snow ...

My ears picked up the low, and very annoying hum of a drone. The hum kept getting stronger, then weaker, then stronger again. Eventually I saw the thing. It was flying so low I could almost swat it out of the air. I wondered if it was focusing on me, and all of a sudden became very self-conscious about my ungraceful skiing. I looked all around and didn't see the operator, so I waved at the drone, to let the operator know I'm aware of the thing spying on me. I didn't like how that noise interrupted the pleasant winter peace. 

Lake Mary Road

The recreation area sign and the permanent road signs were just being exposed. Next to them was a temporary sign stuck in the snow. I couldn't get over how funny it looked, and how different the entire area looked in summer.

I resumed my slow progress toward Lake Mary, wondering how far I should push myself before turning around. So far I was going on a constant, yet mild uphill. Going back would be downhill, which aught to be faster, unless my poor skill would fail me. While I contemplated all that I saw three young people running down the trail toward me. They wore regular snow boots and were not supposed to run on the groom trail which was for skiers but on the side path saved for hiking and snow-shoeing. When they reached me they asked if I;d seen a drone ... it was theirs and apparently lost. I told them where I've seen it last and as they run past me in that direction I muttered to myself that I hope it got stuck up a tree.

When I finally reached Lake Mary I already knew that I wouldn't have the time to go on the circumference trail surrounding it. It wasn't just the time - the entire south side of the lake shore was forested and I knew the trail there would be icy. Too icy for me to ski on with confidence. There was an opening in the trees where I could approach the lake. I took my skis off and gingerly walked down on the lake's surface.

Lake Mary

It had been twenty five years since the last time I walked on top of a frozen lake, way back when I lived in Wisconsin. I felt the thrill and elation as I made my way to the center of the lake and took some wide shots all around, one of them heads this blog post.

Lake Mary

After taking it all in I returned to the lake shore and stepped into the skis again. I made it to the north end of the lake, then turned around and started my way back down the trail.

There were a nice elderly couple there, that watched me struggle down the first slope. They advised me to do this and that, all of which I already knew, in theory anyway. The problem was that my injury pain flared up and I was already getting tired of the exertion. Cross country skiing is one of the most demanding sports ever, and I wasn't practiced in it, and my muscles were sore. After falling a couple of times coming down a slope that was a tad too steep or that curved inconveniently, I simply took the skis off and walked down beside the trail. Most of the way down however, I did ski, and without any more falls.

Trail

I made it back to the Tamarack Lodge right on time to return the rental skis and to get back to the Main Lodge area where I met my young chika who finished an excellent day of solo down skiing. As I promised her that morning when I sent her off on her own, I now took her to the town's village for ice cream. I was glad of the day's experience and the beauty that I saw, despite the navigation mistake and the ungraceful falls I took. Mammoth Lakes is a hot spot for me all around the year, Next time I'm there in winter, I'll make it all the way to Horseshoe Lake.