Slip-Sliding On Top of the Big Snow: Cross Country At Mammoth Lakes

Lake Mary

 

 

Date: April 14, 2023

Place: Mammoth Lakes, California

Coordinates (of Tamarack Lodge): 37.618382, -119.006832

Length: Vista Loop 2 miles, moderate, and Lake Mary 3.5 miles easy

The winter of 2022-2023 was a record breaker for snow fall in the Sierra Nevada. I was eager to see some of that so on the young chika's spring break I took her skiing at Mammoth Mountain in the eastern Sierra, one of my favorite vacation spots. We took the long route looking for wildflowers on the way, like at Red Rock Canyon State Park, but once we arrived Mammoth Lakes, it was all skiing. Despite the two dry and warm weeks that preceded our arrival, everything was covered by a thick blanket of snow, and huge walls of snow barricaded the town's houses, and the streets looked like tunnels. We planned to ski for five days and following the lovely experience I had in Kirkwood earlier this winter, I decided to take the forth day there to go cross country skiing. My chika immediately announced that she wasn't into it, so I went on my own. On the day before however, I fell hard and bruised my chest but, seeing that I hadn't cracked anything, I decided to go anyway. 

View east from Mammoth Mountain

At the Tamarack Lodge where I rented the skis I also asked for recommendations for easy trails. I'm not a very good cross country skier and I was also hurting from yesterday's fall. The employee directed me towards Lake Mary and seeing that I had a few good hours, I thought to go all the way to Horseshoe Lake, where I hiked last summer with my sister. The day was bright and warm, and the snow was quickly turning slushy in the sunny areas. I was fairly early on the trail so the groomed grooves were still intact and smooth.

At the trailhead

Despite my extensive hiking experience, I do occasionally take the wrong turn. After huffing and puffing up the mild uphill slope, I turned left instead of right at the first junction. By the time I realized I was on the wrong trail it was too late to return, so I ended up skiing the Vista Loop Trail first.  

The Vista Loop Trail

I didn't suspect being on the wrong trail at first. The trail was good and the views were spectacular. I had some issue with the shaded spots under the trees where the top snow was still icy. Watching for the top ice slowed me down but but all and all I made a good progress and enjoyed the winter wonderland in a very spring-like weather.

Later I would understand why this trail was named 'Vista Loop'. From the high pint I could see far into the valley below.

Around the curve I had a good view of the eastern side of the Mammoth Mountain ski area. I could see the thin line of the ski lift and the tiny dots of people whirling down the slopes. I wondered where was my chika now and whether she was having fun, skiing all by herself.

Mammoth Mountain

It was on the downhill part that I started suspecting I was on the wrong trail. I remember wondering how can such a steep downhill be considered a 'green', easy trail. I got hesitant but decided to go for it and let myself go down a long slope on the groomed grooves, praising myself for maintaining my balance even going around the curve. When I cleared the curve however, I saw to my horror a group of people standing there, a short distance away from where the grooves terminated. It was under the trees again, and the snow was icy. Try hard as I could, there was now way I could safely stop before I reached the people so I intentionally wiped out so I won't crash into them. Once again I was hard on the icy snow, and my bruise from yesterday flared up.

Vista Loop Trail

One of the people helped me up. We exchanged some small talk and I went on my way, seemingly okay but with my confidence badly shaken. On the next slopes I simply took off the skies and walked down, feeling a failure. By then I also pulled out the little map I was given and verified that I was on the wrong trail, a 'blue' moderate trail meant for more experienced cross country skiers. I made it down back to the parking lot, having conflicting thoughts. My bruised body wanted me to get back to the lodge and relax for the rest of the day but my bruised ego said no way. I decided to have my lunch in the car and decide after that what to do next. It was funny to see how deep in the snow the cabins near the road were buried. Those cabins that were in use had tunnels dug to their doors and the roofs cleared, but many were still completely covered. 

Cabin near Tamarack Lodge

I had my lunch sitting at the tailgate of my car. I felt much invigorated after eating, and in better spirits. I decided to go out again, and this time on the intended trail.

Lake Mary Trail

The first mild uphill section was the same as before, except the snow was slushier and the sharp contrast between the slush and the still very icy shaded spots was much harder to maneuver. Also the grooves were more disrupted by other skiers. Unlike my nearly solitary experience in Kirkwood, here there were plenty other people on the trail.

Trail

This time I took the right turn, going on the right way to Lake Mary. It was also clear to me that I would not reach Horseshoe Lake on this outing. There wasn't enough time left for me to do that, not with my slow skiing. But I hoped to get at least to Lake Mary.

Mammoth Mountain

Mammoth Mountain had a record snowfall of over 800'' but the warm spring weather on the two weeks preceding our visit had thawed about a third of it. The rocks were being exposed quickly and I could almost see the the snow on the steep slopes shrinking away. What surprised me was how dry the exposed soil was. The fresh water was absorbed very quickly.

I don't remember when exactly it dawned on me that the trail I was skiing on was actually the asphalt road that I drove on last summer to get to Horseshoe Lake. The cross country trail system is the road system itself - unploughed and groomed, is was made available to skiers and hikers on snow shoes to enjoy their winter wonderland outdoors.

Lake Mary Road

Perhaps it was when I noticed the permanent road signs that I realized I was skiing on a groomed snow-covered road.

Watch for horses buried in snow ...

My ears picked up the low, and very annoying hum of a drone. The hum kept getting stronger, then weaker, then stronger again. Eventually I saw the thing. It was flying so low I could almost swat it out of the air. I wondered if it was focusing on me, and all of a sudden became very self-conscious about my ungraceful skiing. I looked all around and didn't see the operator, so I waved at the drone, to let the operator know I'm aware of the thing spying on me. I didn't like how that noise interrupted the pleasant winter peace. 

Lake Mary Road

The recreation area sign and the permanent road signs were just being exposed. Next to them was a temporary sign stuck in the snow. I couldn't get over how funny it looked, and how different the entire area looked in summer.

I resumed my slow progress toward Lake Mary, wondering how far I should push myself before turning around. So far I was going on a constant, yet mild uphill. Going back would be downhill, which aught to be faster, unless my poor skill would fail me. While I contemplated all that I saw three young people running down the trail toward me. They wore regular snow boots and were not supposed to run on the groom trail which was for skiers but on the side path saved for hiking and snow-shoeing. When they reached me they asked if I;d seen a drone ... it was theirs and apparently lost. I told them where I've seen it last and as they run past me in that direction I muttered to myself that I hope it got stuck up a tree.

When I finally reached Lake Mary I already knew that I wouldn't have the time to go on the circumference trail surrounding it. It wasn't just the time - the entire south side of the lake shore was forested and I knew the trail there would be icy. Too icy for me to ski on with confidence. There was an opening in the trees where I could approach the lake. I took my skis off and gingerly walked down on the lake's surface.

Lake Mary

It had been twenty five years since the last time I walked on top of a frozen lake, way back when I lived in Wisconsin. I felt the thrill and elation as I made my way to the center of the lake and took some wide shots all around, one of them heads this blog post.

Lake Mary

After taking it all in I returned to the lake shore and stepped into the skis again. I made it to the north end of the lake, then turned around and started my way back down the trail.

There were a nice elderly couple there, that watched me struggle down the first slope. They advised me to do this and that, all of which I already knew, in theory anyway. The problem was that my injury pain flared up and I was already getting tired of the exertion. Cross country skiing is one of the most demanding sports ever, and I wasn't practiced in it, and my muscles were sore. After falling a couple of times coming down a slope that was a tad too steep or that curved inconveniently, I simply took the skis off and walked down beside the trail. Most of the way down however, I did ski, and without any more falls.

Trail

I made it back to the Tamarack Lodge right on time to return the rental skis and to get back to the Main Lodge area where I met my young chika who finished an excellent day of solo down skiing. As I promised her that morning when I sent her off on her own, I now took her to the town's village for ice cream. I was glad of the day's experience and the beauty that I saw, despite the navigation mistake and the ungraceful falls I took. Mammoth Lakes is a hot spot for me all around the year, Next time I'm there in winter, I'll make it all the way to Horseshoe Lake.

 

 

 

Visiting Winter Wonderland: Cross Country Skiing at Caples Creek

 

 

Date: February 15, 2023

Place: Kirkwood, California

Coordinates: 38.703589, -120.072097

Length: Job's Jaunt:1 mile, Caples Creek: 3 miles

Level: moderate

 

 

Last month I managed to find a day with nothing on my schedule and a forecast of clear sky, so i told Pappa Quail that I'm taking the day off and going up to Kirkwood to ski. I had my downhill skies in the car but already on the way I started having divergent thoughts in my mind. When I approached Kirkwood and saw how strong the wind was, those divergent thoughts solidified into a decision. I passed the main entrance to the Kirkwood resort, and continued on hy88 for a quarter mile longer, then turned left into the cross country ski area. 

 It has been a long time since I skied cross-country. In fact, it has been 8 years. I decided it was time to go at it again, and ventured further into the beautiful snowy scenery of the Sierra Nevada mountains. 

The Kiddy Loop and Job's Jaunt

 

 After a couple of runs around the kiddy loop to get myself reacquainted with going on cross country skies I headed up to Job's Jaunt trail, a short, moderate groomed trail in the woods.  Not being sure of my stability on cross-country skies, I chose to leave my camera behind and take photos with my phone. 

Job's Jaunt Trailhead

I half expected winter wonderland to be still. It wasn't, of course. Despite the wind and the cold, there was wildlife activity all around me. Most of the activity was of birds, mainly chickadees with the occasional jay or raven.  Then there were the squirrels too. I didn't get photos of any of the animals - by the time I pulled my mittens off and had my phone camera on my would be subject had already hopped or flew away. All I got as evidence are the fresh squirrel tracks in the snow. 

Squirrel Tracks

For some time now I've been harboring the idea of going on a winter backpacking trip. Although snowshoeing would probably be my choice of travel, the thought of using cross-country skiing to traverse flat or mild downhill distances did come to my mind. Of course wilderness skiing wouldn't be the same as going on nicely groomed trail.

Job's Jaunt

The trail was perfectly groomed and there were no signs of anyone breaking it before me. I was the first skier to go there that day. I fishboned my way up the slope to the highest point of the loop and the view there was absolutely grand.

Along Job's Jaunt were a few post signs with historical information about the legendary US Post carrier, 'Snowshoe Thompson', who was the sole connector of information and mail delivery across the Sierra Nevada during the winter months in the time of the Gold Rush. Apparently his 'snowshoes' resembled more the cross country skies of our time.

The forest was thinner at the crest. The trees, nearly all conifers, looked nice and healthy. Despite the strong wind the trees seemed to be almost still. None of the trees had any snow in their canopies, time had passed since the last snow event. 

Job's Jaunt is only a mile long and even at my crawl speed skiing I made it down the final descent all too quickly. 

Thinking I could use a bit more practice I skied Job's Jaunt loop a second time, which is when I actually took the photos. After the second run I decided that I was ready for the longer loop of Caples Creek. 

 

Caples Creek Trail

 

 It was only half way up the first hill crest that I remembered to start my navigator again, so there's a third of a mile missing from the trail recording. Going uphill on skies is hard work and when I reached the top of the crest I was sweating and had to unzip my coat. It isn't a good idea to sweat when it's really cold outside, and the temperature was only slightly above freezing. 

I knew about the fire that raged in the area a couple of summers ago but seeing the charred remains of the forest on the snow-white background was jarring. The burnt patch here was relatively small, most of the forest along the loop trail was green and healthy looking. 

Going uphill on skies is hard work but coming downhill on cross-country skies was even harder for me. I'm a very mediocre skier and the cross country skies have much less control than the downhill skies I'm more familiar and experienced with. I didn't have the skill to do any sort of parallel turning or stopping with the long and thin cross country skies so I had to snow-plow my way on the downhill sections, wearing out my knees and thighs. When I finally reached the flat area surrounding Caples Creek (with only one fall, having caught an edge on a turn) I had to stand there for a while and catch my breath. 

When I felt I could move again I turned right to the Granite Rock loop. The map I was given at the rental center had the entire wilderness area east of Granite Rock closed off, but I don't think I would have gone there anyway - that area is for more advanced skiers. 

When I reached Caples Creek I had to pause again, this time in awe. I stood by the creek bank and admired the gorgeous sight of the calm, dark flow walled by two feet of pure snow. 

Caples Creek

 The flow was almost invisible. In fact, I could see the reflection very clearly on the surface, as if the water was standing. The sound of the flowing water however, gave it away. In the stillness of winter wonderland, the sound of the creek was like music to my ears. 

Caples Creek

I made my way around the Granite Rock loop without actually identifying what the 'Granite Rock' was. As I looped around I did recognize a familiar landmark - the three rocky 'horns' on top of the ridge to the west. This ridge towers right over Kirkwood Lake, where I've hiked in the past with my family and our friends. 

After completing the Granite Rock loop I continued west on the snowy plain toward the Beaver Pond Loop. By then I have already crossed paths with a handful of other skiers who moved on the snow with much more skill and assurance than me. Most of the time however, I was still very much alone. 

It was past noon and I was feeling hungry. I had my backpack with water and snacks but I didn't see any place where I could sit comfortably to have a lunch break, so I continued on westward. 

The Beaver Pond Trail is a narrow, little loop at the west end of Caples Creek loop trail. Entering Beaver Pond Trail I was once again in skiing in the forest, and along the beautiful Caples Ceek. 

Caples Creek

A fellow passed me quickly, gliding on his skies as if he was born on them. Behind him followed a mid size brown dog that reminded me of Disney's Pluto. The dog paused to sniff me but his owner called him and the dog continued galloping down the trail. In less then a minute, both man and dog vanished around the curve, and I continued my crawl-skiing after them. 

By that time I was very hungry. I was also feeling tired and needed a break. I looked for a fallen log that I could sit on, but there were none close enough to the trail, and I didn't want to wade in the deep snow with the rental ski shoes. When I completed the Beaver Pond trail loop and faced the uphill way back to the lodge I gave up on finding a comfortable sitting place, and I sat on the snow at the edge of the trail, and pulled the food out of my backpack. 

Reflection in Caples Creek

A couple of elderly skiers passed me while I was sitting there. They too were on their way back to the lodge. We exchanged greetings and impressions and I watched them as they made their way uphill, envying the apparent ease in which they did so. 

When I finished my lunch break I felt invigorated and ready to get going up the hill crest. Going uphill on skies can be done by either very slow and tedious side-stepping, or by 'fishboning', named so by the ski tracks left in the snow by pushing each ski sideways in an angle with each step. 'Fishboning' is much faster and more efficient, but also requires a great deal of fitness and stamina. Thankfully, the uphill stretch wasn't all that long. I was very proud of myself for having stopped for only one short break on the way up. 

The last bit of the Caples Creek loop trail overlaps the Job's Jaunt loop. By then I was considerably more confident on the cross country skies, and I let myself slide downhill with much less snow-plow dig. 

 

It was around two thirty when I finished my day in winter wonderland by Kirkwood. For a moment I entertained the thought of maybe going to the slopes of the downhill ski area, but after i returned my rentals and made it back to my car I realized that I had only one hour eft before they's close the lifts, so I resigned to going back home. 

 I drove away into the sunset (literally) with the conviction of doing this again, even if it means giving up a day or two of downhill skiing opportunity. Passionate downhill skiers might not understand this. Cross-country is hard work, and not even remotely as thrilling as downhill ski. It is however, greatly rewarding on other levels. For an avid hiker as me, cross-country skiing opens up trails that would otherwise be either inaccessible or harder to traverse during the winter season. For me it is a way to immerse in a part of Nature that is otherwise reserved to the chickadees and the squirrels, and the silent firs. It is another door that's available to me when I venture into winter wonderland. 

 

 

The Other Side of Kirkwood

Date: December 23, 2015
Place: Kirkwood Mountain Resort, California
Length: about 3 miles
Level: easy

There is a loop trail that goes around the Kirkwood Meadow, just below the slopes. The trail might be visible in summer time too, I don't know. In winter, however, it is well marked on the snow, groomed to perfection for snow-shoe hikers and cross-country skiers.
I didn't plan to do this trail. I arrived at Kirkwood Mountain Resort with the intention to ski down hill. But it was a lovely day after three consecutive days of awful weather and many people had come to enjoy the fresh snow. After I dropped the chikas in ski school there was no more parking within the resort and the waiting line to get a lift pass was enormous. So I drove off to the cross-country lodge where I managed to find parking, and instead of marching all the way back with my skis I headed up to the lodge and rented me a pair of cross-country skis and boots, bought a trail pass for the day, and headed to the Meadow Trail.
So technically speaking, I didn't hike that trail. But cross-country ski is something I usually do when down-hill conditions are not to my liking and I never really built up the skill to be any good at it, so I skied at hiking speed, enjoyed the scenery very much and stopped frequently to take photos. (The photos here were all taken by my phone, please forgive their inferior quality).

The trail map I got said: 'The Other Side of Kirkwood'. It turned out to be a beautiful side.

The trail is very nicely groomed and is mostly flat, made for easy skiing. The temperature, however, was higher than optimal, making the snow more sticky and resistant. Still, I could glide easy enough on the trail. I hardly had to mind other skiers. There were so few out there.

The day I was there was the first clear day following a prolonged snow storm, The snow, so desperately needed there, had painted the trees in white. A very obvious line separate the trees that remained frosted the day after the storm.

The local conifers are evergreen and have a very nice contrast to the snow-whire slopes. The occasional bare tree is usually dead, but it too can look very beautiful as part of the winter scenery.

But not all bare plants are dead. The reddish twigs that stick out of the snow belong to willow shrubs, all dormant, sleeping the winter off.

Even when dormant the willows look pretty, reddish against the white snow background.
The creek was running still, deep in the snow. The trail bridges over the ice-cold stream.

Caples Creek

Dips, bumps, grass heaps, shrubs and gopher holes, all equally covered with a thick snow blanket, nicely quilt-patterned by the winds.

Slowly I made it to the far end of the meadow. I didn't take a backpack with me, and had no water or snack, so I crossed over to the resort's Village and entered the cafeteria. It was so crowded in there, the only place to sit was at the bar.
Oh, well.

After my break I waddled back to the meadow and somehow managed to hook on the skies again. I already learned that beer can affect my ski run choices, good thing that the meadow trail is flat. 

The cool air quickly cleared the alcohol fumes and I was on my way back north on the other side of the meadow. The clouds started gathering again and soon the sunlight dimmed. 

 By then I had already felt considerably more confident on the narrow cross-country skies and I picked up my pace. The wind picked up too and I wrapped my coat tighter. The clouds were racing across the sky and the gaps between them let down bright patches of sunlight that made the snow glisten.

Closing the meadow loop I came across the creek again. At that place is was frozen nicely. Although it was very tempting, I didn't test the ice thickness.

The outer meadow loop is roughly 3 miles long, the perfect distance for a nice, easy snow-shoe hike or ski. I had finished it just in time to go and pick up the chikas and their friend from ski school and drive out ahead of the crowd. I even had the time to stop on my way down the mountain and appreciate the sunset. 

Sunset on Hwy 88

This lovely ski-hike was on the last day of a planned 3-days ski trip.
We had arrived on Kirkwood on Monday, December 21, and were trapped there by a snow storm that had the roads blocked on all directions. We floor-camped at the resort's Red Cliff Lodge with a couple hundreds other people who were stranded there as well. The resort's people made sure all were tucked safely indoors, warm and dry. They had fed us, had a separate space for families with children (there were quite a few there!) and even dispensed sleeping bags to the kids. On the following morning the road east was still closed but the way north to South Lake Tahoe had reopened. I had to dig my car out of the snow and it was a very slow drive all the way around the mountain back to Somerset where we were (we had planned to be) staying the nights. That second day of our trip felt like it completely gone missing. It was only on Wednesday, December 23, that we finally had made it in and out of Kirkwood as planned.

Anticipating the possibility of having to dig my car out of the snow I had brought a shovel with me. That shovel came in handy for other people as well. It is a very useful item to have in the car when going out to the snow. Chains, are, of course, a must (or a 4x4 with snow tires) and it very much helps to have a pair of gloves (not mittens) and a head lamp in the car if needed to install/uninstall the chains at nighttime. I make sure to have an emergency pack with personal essentials in the car. It doesn't take much space in the car, and getting stuck is a real possibility. It is important to be prepared when going out to the snow. It can be, and usually is a lot of fun, but a quick turn of events can make it a disaster.
I cannot wait until the next trip up to the snow!

Many, many thanks to the people at the Kirkwood Mountain Resort for taking such an excellent care of all of us who got stranded there on Monday, December 21, 2015. It was a Winter Solstice we'll never forget!