In View of the Tetons: Hiking Taggart Lake and Moose-Finding with my Sister

Taggart Lake and the Tetons at Grand Teton National Park

 

Date: September 27, 2023

Place: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

Coordinates: 43.693158, -110.733069

Length: 3.4 miles round trip

Level: moderate

Last September I got special treat - my sister came to visit me and both of us went on a 10 days long road trip, just the two of us. Our original plan was to drive north to Oregon and Washington but a forecast of daily rain convinced us to change direction and travel northeast - to the Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. For my sister it would be the first time in this magical places. For me - the third but I'm always ready for more and would go there again without hesitation. 

We took it easy on the drive and took two and a half days to get to Wyoming. On the way it was worked out that we would start with the Grand Teton. After a restful night in Idaho Falls and a short walk by the Snake River we drove to Jackson and from there north into the park. Our first stop was at the Visitor Center where we gathered some information. Then we stopped at a picnic area near the trailhead of our chosen trail for the day and had a satisfying picnic lunch, with the Grand Tetons belted with fall-colored trees as our backdrop. 

The Grand Tetons

Our first hike within the Grand Teton National Park was up (and down) to Taggart Lake, a small alpine lake at the foot of the Tetons. After our lunch we moved the car to the parking area at the trailhead and started up the trail. 

Our hike as captured by my GPS

Right from the start I knew that this hike will be a very nice one botanically. It was autumn here already, but there were many wildflowers blooming still. 

Aspen Daisy, Erigeron speciosus

The first thing that captures the eye in the Grand Teton are of course, the mountains themselves, especially the Tetons after which the park was named. The second thing that captured my eye on this visit however, was the fall colors. 

Fall Colors

The most striking fall color is the golden autumn foliage of the quaking aspen trees, especially against the dark green background of the evergreen conifers. 

Just before the trail disappeared in the forest there was a group of bushes, and on them we saw a numerous caterpillars with a black and yellow ring pattern and two types of hairs - long white whisker-like hairs and black/yellow fur fuss. This caterpillar became the signature wildlife that we've seen pretty much on almost every trail in both the Grand Teton and the Yellowstone National Parks. 

Caterpillar of Spotted Tussock Moth 

We moved up the trail into a forest of quaking aspens. The aspen trees, all wearing autumn gold formed a gorgeous golden tunnel through which we passed, like princess maidens. 

Aspen Tunnel

I bit further up the trail we encountered a different butterfly species in its adult phase of life. It was alive and intact but very still. Might have been at the end of its life.

Tortoiseshell Butterfly

Most of the autumn colors we saw on the hike was the yellow gold of the quaking aspens. Occasionally we did see other plants displaying the red spectrum band of fall.

The trail crossed Taggart Creek and I paused on the low bridge to look at the happy cascading water, coming down from the lake. 

Taggart Creek

usually the sight and the sound of water is was captivates me in such mountain scenes. This day however, it was the stands of aspens wearing their autumn gold. Some of them were already bare but that added more contrast and beauty to the lovely autumn scene.

Past the bridge the trail steepened considerably. we followed it up the slope, flanked by the gorgeous golden trees. Although it may look as if I'm posting here all of the aspen photos I took on that hike, in actuality I chose very few of them at a great difficulty.

Taggart Lake Trail

Eventually the trail neared Taggart Creek and for a good distance we followed the creek line on the north. The creek wasn't in clear view all of that time but we always heard it flowing nearby on our left.

Taggart Creek

Our pace slowed down on the uphill. We took the hike at ease, chatting between us, nodding hello to other hikers and enjoying the walk. I also paused for the wildflowers whenever I saw any.

Clover

Not only flowers contributed colors to the hike. Ripe red berries hanged in bunches from shoulder-high bushes near the creak. 

Higher up the trail the aspens closed in on us, creating a magical tunnel with their slender, arching trunks. We walked underneath the arched aspens listening the sound of the leaves rustling in the wind. 

Taggart Lake Trail

Before realizing it, we were at the top of the ascend. The trail leveled almost completely and widened. Walking was easier now, and we picked up our pace. 

Taggart Lake Trail

The trees receded. The aspens were left behind and the heights were covered with low shrubs, mostly manzanite. Here and there was a conifer tree. Ahead of us, towered the Teton Mountains. 

The Tetons

Magnetized by the powerful view of the Tetons we stood in silence for a long moment, taking in the magnificent view. I noted the small glaciers on the mountain side. It was more snow than what I've seen there on my previous visit to Grand Teton NP in July of 2020. 

Le Grand Teton

A big rock on the side of the trail caught my eye. It had an X made of two separate dikes - filler rocks inserted inside a crack in the original bedrock this boulder eroded from. It made an interesting visual effect. 

Once again we were seeing aspens. This time in distinct pandos (genetically identical stand of underground connected aspens). Their golden foliage brought out even better against the blue sky. 

It was hard to take my eyes off the grand view of the Grand Tetons, and off the grand scenery between us and them. Below us however, right by the trail, were wildflowers, and they too captured my attention. 

Mountain Harebell, Campanula rotundifolia

We were getting close to the lake. The mountains didn't seem like they were getting any closer though, but we didn't mind. The Tetons make the best backdrop ever. 

Lake Taggart Trail

The trail curved strongly to the south and entered a crowded forest of thin-trunked trees. To see which trees were they, I had to raise my eyes to the canopies - these were pine trees, of a species unfamiliar to me. A string of puddles lined the trail through the pine forest. Sunlight/shade reflection patterns played in these little puddles, giving them a fairy-like look. 

Taggart Lake Trail

As we walked deeper into this forest the trees increased in numbers and pulled closer together. It actually felt as if they were drawing near us, moving through the earth. For a little while I felt as if I was going through the dark forest of Mirkwood in Middle Earth. Of course, part of the darker atmosphere was because of the ate afternoon hour, when the sun no longer illuminates directly down to the forest floor. 

"Mirkwood"

The dark pine forest wasn't very large though, and in reality that unearthly, fairytale feeling was present only for a few seconds. We exited the forest into a wide, flat trail. The lake was very near but we didn't see it yet - it was hidden by the trees. The trail curved around the forest and turned west and we anticipated seeing the lake at any moment. 

Taggart Lake Trail

One more curve and the trail plunged again into the forest. A few steps later and the trees parted, revealing a gorgeous lake - Taggart Lake. The tTeton Mountains loomed over on the other side. There were quite a few other people there by the lake and it was quite challenging to take photos without other humans in the frame. 

Taggart Lake

I wanted to climb the big rock that jutted into and over the lake but that rock was in the frame of a man who was poised with his camera on a tripod. While I waited for the man to be done I turned my attention to a little chipmunk that my sister saw and pointed out to me. 

Chipmunk

Eventually I Climbed on that rock. My sister joined me and we sat there for a good long time, enjoying the beautiful afternoon by the lake, surrounded by the majestic Nature, one of the most spectacular I've ever been to. 

Taggart Lake

After a long time that was certainly insufficient we slid off the rock and started heading down the trail. I noticed a (living) twisted tree near the trail and wondered how it came to be this way. 

Twisted Pine

Before delving once again into the dark pine forest we paused and observed. My sister too saw the fairytale aspect of this forest. The trail looked like it was disappearing into a maw of darkness. The sun didn't stop during the hour we sat at Taggart Lake. Now the tree shadows were long and reached all the way across the trail. 

Taggard Lake Trail

Our descent down the trail was quick. Pressed by the sense of the day's nearing end we walked briskly and took very few pauses on the way. Also, the wind picked up and the air became much cooler. 

Quaking Aspen

A squirrel crossed our path. Or maybe we crossed hers. I raised my camera quickly but all I could capture was her bushy tail as she hopped over a decomposing log. 

Squirrel

The sky was still bright and blue but a line of dark clouds appeared along the mountains. The earth below where we were walking was getting dark. 

Lake Taggart Lake

We hurried down the trail along Taggart Creek, under the bowed boughs of the quaking aspens. On the walk we discussed what to do next - I wanted to go to one of the places where moose were known to come at dusk. Although both of us were fortunate to see moose in Rocky Mountains National Park on the previous year, but we were both eager to see these magnificent animals again. 

Lake Taggart Trail

I didn't stop much on the way downhill to take photos, but some of the things I missed on our way up I now had a second chance to observe. 

Snowberry

My sister and I agreed to go to Moose Wilson Road after the hike to look for the moose and to continue on that road back to Jackson where we were staying that night. My sister tightened her jacket around her - she was becoming uncomfortable in the chill wind. 

Fremont's Geranium, Geranium caespitosum

By the time we crossed Taggart Creek again the sun has already set. We didn't pause any longer to look at anything, but hurried down the trail. 

Taggart Creek

Just before exiting the trail I turned around and looked at the Tetons. The line of dark clouds had extended to a thick gray blanket. I too wrapped my jacked around myself. The Teton Mountains looked majestic still, but darker and aloof. We would see the Tetons again tomorrow. 

The Grand Tetons

From the Taggart Trail we drove to Moose Wilson Rd where we met many other wildlife observers and joined them in staring down at the snake river. After half an hour when we saw nothing but a couple of mallards we decided to call it quits and to drive to Jackson back through the park. On the way out I decided on an impulse to turn east onto Antelope Flats Rd where on my first visit to this park 17 years ago we got to see a herd of pronghorn. We drove a bit along the Snake River which looked very beautiful in the dusk, but didn't see any pronghorn. 

Snake River along Antelope Flat Rd

What we did see were a lot of cars parked in all of the pullouts and the road side too, and a line of wildlife observers standing near the edge of the river and staring at the other side. Needless to say, we found a parking spot, got out of the car and went to see what were all the others looking at.

As it turned out, they all were looking at a pair of moose on the other side of the river. They were far and also hiding in the bushes and I had a really hard time seeing them with the naked eyes. Even with the camera zoom I had a hard time figuring where the moose even were. A fellow who had telescope trained on the moose invited us to look. Once seen, I had a better time aiming my camera. 

Moose

Eventually the moose made it a bit easier by stepping, at least a little bit, out of the bushes. With my maximal zoom I got an acceptable image. At least we could see these were moose. 

Moose

We didn't mind that the moose were far. Seeing them was the perfect ending of a perfect day. While we watched the moose the night sneaked on us and darkness fell. We got back in the car and joined the long convoy of satisfied moose observers going back to town. 

My plan for the morrow was to do a short walk along the eastern shore of Jenny Lake, then to drive north to Yellowstone and visit the Old Faithful Geyser before checking into the cabin we reserved at Lake Yellowstone. While thinking about hiking by Jenny Lake I remembered the last two times I've been there, and I realized that I wanted to post here about my previous experience there, especially the hike from the summer of 2020.