Jenny Lake Thrice, Unplanned Going Around and Cutting Corners

Hidden Falls

Date: September 28, 2023

Place: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

Coordinates: 43.788778, -110.730797

Length: 8.1 (including 3 miles ferry ride) 

Level: moderate

 

My road trip with my sister last fall wasn't even remotely as haphazard as was my trip with the youth three years before. There was however, 'last minute change of plans' element to it as well. It started with the direction of the entire trip - weather patterns had us change our direction from north: to Oregon and Washington to the northeast: to Grand Teton and Yellowstone. We entered the parks region from the south - through rant Teton National Park, and on our first day we hiked to Taggart Lake, and finished an excellent day with moose sighting - the cherry on the pie. 

On the following day I planned to do a short hike near Jenny Lake, then maybe go to one of the other wildlife viewing hotspots in the park, and finish with a drive to Yellowstone and a visit to the Old Faithful geyser. 

We wanted to start the day by having breakfast - neither of us liked what was offered at the hotel. There was n picnic area near the visitor center so we drove to a picnic area by String Lake, north of Jenny Lake. After breakfast we started our hike from there - it was close enough to Jenny Lake so I figured we'll get a bit of the in between creek, walk a little more south along Jenny Lake's eastern shore, then head back. 

Our hike and ferry ride as captured by my GPS 

My plan was a sound one, but that's not quite how it went. It started by having to bypass lots of trail maintenance work before we got to the actual trail. 

When we finally passed all the trail maintenance area and reached the shore of String Lake we stopped for a bit to appreciate the view. String Lake is small and at least near the shore it's shallow, so we could see every pebble through the clear water.  

String Lake

There were a few people near the lake, most of them youth that seemed to take part in some environmental studies class. They waded in the shallows with buckets and nets looking for stuff. Eventually they stirred up a frog and when the frog came to a rest near the shore me and my sister also got a close look at the upset amphibian. 

Frog

After prompts from their guide the young students let the frog go on its merry way and my sister and me continued down the trail. There were numerous squirrels active on the forest floor that day, but none of them collaborated with me for a good photo. My sister had a better luck in this, and she took a video. 

Squirrel

From the shore of Sting Lake we had a nice view of the Teton Mountains. It was a nice, sunny day, but it wasn't very warm. Both me and my sister had our jackets on. 

The Teton Mountain viewed from String Lake

I took a maximal zoom photo of the Tetons. Although we were there in September, two months later in the year than the last time I was there (July 2020), there was much  more snow cover on the Tetons. The glaciers looked bigger and there was dusting of fresh snow clinging to the steep, rugged slopes. 

The Grand Tetons

Leaving String Lake we continued into the forest. It was shaded and cooler between the trees, but also not as windy. A reasonable trade-off. 

On the previous time my sister visited me, in the summer of 2022, she flew over with her spouse and children, and with our mother. During that visit we embarked on another big road trip to Colorado, on which I had not yet posted. On that trip we also visited the Rocky Mountains National Park and it was on one of the hikes there than we met some mushroom hunters who informed us about the wild porcini, and about where to collect them, and my sister fell in love with these wild delicacies. needless to say, when my sister identified budding porcini she immediately wanted to harvest some. 

Porcini mushrom

I was way more cautious. Not a hundred percent sure of the identification, I didn't wish to take the risk, as minima as it may be. Besides, I didn't know whether it was even legal to harvest wild mushrooms within the Grand Teton National Park. I talked my sister out of harvesting using these arguments but I think what convinced her was that we only found a couple of fairly small mushrooms, and there was no point in going through the trouble for just one mouthful. 

The trail lead us along the short creek that connects String lake with Jenny Lake. The creek was flowing as high as it did in July of 2020. 

We reached the bridge that crosses the creek, and that's where my neat plan for today did a 180 degrees turn. 

Bridge

My original plan was to stay on the east side of that bridge and walk a little bit south along the east shore of Jenny Lake so my sister will get to see the majestic view of the Tetons over the gorgeous, blue Lake. 

What happened was that my sister went on that bridge to take a look at the creek, then continued on to cross it, and suggested to continue the hike on the west side. Her energetic attitude rubbed off on me and not much convincing was needed for me to agree. 

Clover

Once across the bridge our trail overlapped what I hiked with the youth three years beforehand. It was mid-July, the height of summer then, and everything was green with lots of wildflowers. Now it was autumn and the dominant colors along the trail were the fall colors. 

Jenny Lake Trail

Ferns in fall colors isn't something I'm used to seeing. In the Bay Area creek side ferns remain green throughout the year, unless of course they shrivel in drought. 

Fall colors fern

My sister pointed out a little chipmunk nearby. This chipmunk didn't run away immediately but stayed put for a few seconds, eying us carefully, perhaps pondering if we'd through him something. We didn't and eventually he left. 

Chipmunk

I find it interesting how I got inspired in the same spots on the trail on the second time around, even when the hikes were three years apart, on different seasons, and the latest one being impromptu. 

Jenny Lake at the creek influx location

Once again I was going southwest around Jenny Lake, heading toward the Teton Mountains. Still very energized, My sister was in the lead. 

The Grand Tetons

Turns out, just like on my last hike there, I took a maximal zoom photo of the Tetons with their glaciers and snow. There was definitely more snow cover in the fall of 2023 than in the summer of 2020, and the glaciers were bigger, too. 

The Grand Tetons

Even the photo of Jenny Lake that I took from that spot was in the same angle with the same view. The view was grayer. It was also a later time in the day and the illumination was coming from behind me. 

Jenny lake

I expected that at any time my sister would say that sh'd seen enough but she continued charging on. Having seen the sign to the Hidden Falls, she now wanted to see them as well. 

I spotted an osprey nest on top of a dead tree ahead. That nest wasn't there for sure in July of 2020. The osprey wasn't there. It wasn't nesting season anyway. 

Osprey Nest

On our yesterday's hike to Taggart Lake we enjoyed very much the fall colors all around. There was much of that on today's Jenny Lake hike. It was the height of autumn in Grand Teton park. 

Ignoring autumn, there were also wildflowers blooming, including the mountain harebell which I've seen on my former visit too. Apparently their bloom season lasts nearly from snow melt to snow fall. 

Mountain Harebell, Campanula rotundifolia 

And then, there were the aspens, shining in their golden fall apparel, looking like trees that grow gold coins.  

Quaking Aspen

My sister pointed out a star-shaped inflorescence bud. Later up the trail we saw the local thistle also in bloom. The star shaped bud that exploded into intense purple super nova blossom. These thistles also were late bloomers. 

Thistle

The air was cool and there was a breeze blowing. We didn't see many insects on this hike so when I did see one that looked cool I paused to take a closer look. 

Fly

The trail curved south. My sister slowed down her pace and eventually I overtook her and took the lead. The mountains ahead sloped steeply into the lake and I remembered the narrow path where the trail was cut on which we hiked on my last visit with the youth, from the ferry anding back to the visitor center. Remembering the ferry I turned to my sister and suggested that we take the ferry back to the visitor center rather than turn around at the falls. There she could wait for me while I walked to String Lake to retrieve the car. 

Jenny Lake

The truly incredible sight was on our right side, on the western slopes above the lake: the aspens, which were the quickest of all the trees to regenerate from the past fire that ravaged this slope some years ago were in their autumn gold and looked like flames themselves. Flames of vitality blazing out of the dark green bushes. 

Aspens in Fall Colors

Eventually we left the fire-affected area and got back into the woods. The trail was fairly level and we were making good pace. On the way we run into a sole ranger and and chatted with him a bit. He was exited to inform us that moose were sighted not too far ahead. 

Jenny Lake Trail

Stoked, my sister and I continued ahead, looking carefully in all directions. As often happens with wildlife near trails however, we saw the gathering of other humans before we saw the moose himself. 

Moose

It was a single bull, and he was sitting down, almost completely hidden by the tall vegetation. All we could see were the top of his head and the lovely rack of antlers. He was pretty close to the trail, too. When we eventually had to move on we needed to carefully sneak through one by one, hoping to not stir the large animal, who can be quite dangerous when irked. 

Moose!

Well, after seeing a moose again, this time from very close range, seeing more daisies was a bit of a downbeat. I still took photos though, as a matter of habit. 

Aspen Daisy, Erigeron speciosus 

There were plenty more wildflowers along the west arm of the Jenny Lake Loop Trail, but no columbine as far as I could see. Still, a moose! 

My sister was beginning to tire and she agreed to my idea of taking the ferry back to the visitor center and her waiting there while I'd go get the car from String Lake. Before that however, we still had to see the Hidden Falls. 

We reached the ferry landing area. The trail up the Cascade Creek  to the Hidden Falls and further up to the Grand Teton Wilderness started there. The creek lived up to its name - it was cascading downhill with a nice series of little drops, creating a lovely whitewater affect. 

Cascade Creek

The trail to Hidden Falls is uphill and involves ascending quite a few rock stairs. There were many people cramming the trail - most of them arrived by the ferry just to see the falls and then ride the ferry right back. We took it slowly, one step at a time, passing other hikers that lingered, and being passed by hikers more vigorous than us.  

Goldenrod

I was also slowed down by the ripe thimbleberries that I found along the upper part of the trail, fairly close to the falls view point. There weren't very many of them, but how many there were, I tried reaching them all. 

Thimbleberry, Rubus parviflorus

The Hidden Falls were well hidden indeed. We got a glimpse of them at the base of the trail spur that leads to the viewing platform. Even from the viewing point we could see only the strip of water coming down the falls through a narrow window between the trees. There were quite a few people there admiring the waterfall. Some people ventured off the trail and closer to the waterfall. I'm sure they had a better view, but we didn't follow suit. 

Hidden Falls

We sat at the viewing platform for a while, then turned and walked down the trail and along the Cascade Creek. There seemed to be more people coming up the trail now, and we weaved our way carefully between them. 

Cascade Creek

The Hidden Falls were nice, but in the context of the entire hike it came behind the fall colors and certainly behind the moose. 

On the way down I had the opportunity to take more wildflower photos. I was amazed at how much bloom was there still, so late in the season. 

Arnica

We reached the ferry landing area and joined the long line of people waiting for a ride back. We were also getting hungry and feeling nature's call but we were going to be there for a while. All we could do was wait and chat. I think it was then that I finally accepted the fact that we wouldn't get to check out any other place today. Certainly not Old Faithful. 

Jenny Lake

We moved slowly down the waiting line, seeing three ferries load and take off before it was our turn to board the watercraft. I didn't take any photos during the ferry ride. I looked at my sister, she was definitely done hiking for today. We split ways when we got off the ferry. My sister went directly to the visitor center and I took off immediately on the trail due north. 

Jenny Lake Trail

Somehow I didn't remember from my hike there three years before that this part of the trail had uphill sections. I was getting tired too but tried to not slow down too much. I didn't want to take too long to get back  with the car. 

Jenny Lake Trail

I hardly stopped for anything, trying to keep as fast a pace as I could. Most of the photos I took on this part pf the hike were shot on the move. 

Mushroom

The trees were all evergreen along this part of the trail, nearly all conifers. The fall colors were evident in the low forest story vegetation. 

Jenny Lake Trail

Every now and then I passed an opening in the trees and had a nice view over Jenny Lake and the mountains beyond. The day was definitely getting older. 

Jenny Lake

For some distance the trail was really close to the road. I had a thought of possibly hitch-hiking to String Lake. I might even have done it, but that road was one way, and not my way. Going on on foot it was, then. 

Jenny Lake Trail

I stopped at the same spot where three years ago I took the view photo of the mountain gap where Cascade Creek was coming through. The sky was overcast and the lake looked gray. It was getting colder, too. I hurried on. 

Cascade Creek valley

From one of these high, open places I had a nice view of Mount Saint John, and below it the green slope that my sister and I hiked underneath earlier that day. There were bright yellow spots on that slope - those brilliant gold quaking aspens in their autumn attire. 

Jenny Lake

I took a maximal zoom image of that amazing looking slope and its golden trees. 

Aspens

The trail plunged into the forest again. It was level again and I picked up my pace. As I progressed through the forest it occurred to me that I may have underestimated the length of the trail between the Jenny Lake visitor center and the picnic area at String lake, where the car was. I tried pushing myself faster. 

Jenny Lake Trail

Then I had to stop again: a number of hikers stood ahead, blocking the trail. I stopped near them and watched on as a few deer were crossing the trail one by one, so close to the humans and completely nonplussed. 

Oh Deer

Some of the grayness departed when the clouds parted above me, letting the sunlight through. I was getting tired, and were starting to slow down some. At some point I realized that I was being followed by three horse riders. The expected thing to do would have been to step aside and let them pass me, but for some reason I was infused with renewed energy and continued onward faster. 

Jenny Lake Trail

The trail separated from the lake and curved west towards the creek. The horse riders kept moving behind me, but just before I thought they would catch up with me a couple of hikers were descending down the trail passing me. These hikers stopped to chat with the horse riders, which stopped as well. I took the opportunity and charged on forward. 

Jenny Lake Trail

I was joyed seeing the emerald creek again, knowing that String Lake wasn't much further. 

In my mind were the memories of three years ago, of myself and the four youth sitting by the creek, enjoying, exploring. I was tempted to stop there again but remembered that my sister was waiting for me. Besides, I could still hear the horse riders coming up the trail from behind me, so I kept on forward at my top speed. 

The trail split from the creek and rose onto a flat, open area beyond which was the bridge crossing to the other side. 

I wasn't all too surprised seeing one of the striped caterpillars on the trail, right below my feet. It was the third time on this hike that I've seen this kind of caterpillar, the same kind I've seen many of yesterday on the Lake Taggart hike. The moose provided the excitement of today's hike, but these caterpillars because the signature wildlife of our trip to Grand Teton and Yellwstone parks. 

Caterpillar of Spotted Tussock Moth 

I reached the bridge that my sister and I crossed much earlier that day. It was a few good hours after, and we have hiked a lot longer than I had planed for this location. Needless to say, I was not disappointed one bit. 

Bridge 

I passed by the bridge without crossing it. It was only there that I finally lost earshot of the horse riders that were following me. It might seem silly, but I was glad that I was able to keep ahead of them all that time. They provided me with the drive to walk much faster than i would have otherwise. 

I still had to pass nearly the full length of String Lake before reaching the car. When I reached the lake shore where we had met the class kids (which were no longer there, of course) and seen the frog, I did pause and turned to look at the Tetons. Soon we will be leaving them behind on our way north to Yellowstone. 

The Grand Tetons

I continued on forward, stopping only once more to photograph some gray jays that frolicked in the pine trees surrounding the parking lt. It was nice t get a photo of the bird that had my elder chika so excited when we camped in Yellowstone  in July of 2020. 

Gray Jay

I did take a few minutes in the car to change my hiking bots op light sneakers. My feet were sweaty and hurting, and I could tell that small blisters were forming on my little toes. I took a few sips of water, then drove of back south toward the visitor center. I picked up my sister and we drove north, saying goodbye to the wonderful Grand Teton National park. 

We reached our cabin in Lake Yellowstone as the last of the day light was vanishing. Exhausted and hungry, we set out right away to make a light dinner, take shower, and sink into our beds. Our Jenny Lake hike and the after drive took the entire day. We would therefore, visit Old Faithful tomorrow.