Up the Creek to the Old Homestead at Stebbins Cold Canyon Reserve

Date: May 25, 2014
Place: Cold Canyon, Lake Berryessa (right by the dam), Solano County, California
Coordinates:
Length and Difficulty: The full loop is 5 miles, strenuous. To Old Homestead and back: 2.5 in and out, moderate.


After another sweaty night we woke up on Sunday morning to yet another scorcher. It would be the last day of our friends at this camping trip because of prior commitments on Memorial Day, but we had time for one more hike together before they would leave. I feared that yesterday's hikes at Smittle Creek and Pope Canyon in the triple digits may have drained all will of hiking away from our group, but everybody seemed to have slept better than me and were in an energized mood. So after breakfast we got into the cars and drove south to Lake Berryessa dam, to the trailhead of Cold Canyon.

Trail Illustrated on Aerial Photo. Photograph from a post sign at the trailhead. 

The name of the trail was promising. I also hoped that the creek would have some water.
The dam is quite a drive from Putah Creek Campground. When we got there we found that the heat didn't deter other hikers, and that the parking lot was full. We managed to squeeze our cars along the road and nearly died of heat during the short segment of road we walked to the trailhead. It was clear to everyone in our group that we won't be hiking the entire loop that day.
The trail looked well shaded, though, so we set up to go to the Old Homestead, about a mile and a quarter up the creek.

California Buckeye blossom. 

There's a bit of a walk, a few hundred yards, before entering the reserve. No one told the plants that, they were flowering along that entire trail segment. Some I've already met the day before, at Smittle Creek.

Harvest Brodiaea (Brodiaea elegans) 

And some I saw for the first time that weekend. I was particularly happy to see Clarkia flowers.

Winecup Clarkia (Clarkia purpurea)

There is an information sign post at the entrance to Stebbins Cold Canyon Reserve. On top of that information sign rested an unopened beer bottle. Not quite what I would expect to find going on a nature hike.
I didn't dwell on that beer for too long. There were so many clarkias about.

Woodland Clarkia (Clarkia unguiculata)

And penstemons too. I love penstemons.

Bunchleaf Penstemon (Penstemon heterophyllus)

We started ascending. The slope wasn't steep and it was mostly shaded. Still, the heat was intense and we did stop frequently to wipe the sweat and drink so we could sweat some more. Good thing the chikas and their friend found things to keep their minds too busy for complaining.

Pipevine Swallowtail Caterpillar on the trail

Whenever we walked through a clearing I took a wide look around, to the chaparral-coated hill tops. They looked very inviting. If only it wasn't so hot ...

And in the chaparral, some very familiar bushes.

Sticky Monkeyflower (Mimulus aurantiacus)

We crossed the creek at one point, and my hopes of seeing water crushed. The creek bed was parched dry. No swimming, not even dipping feet. The only water on that trail was in our bottles, and shortly after beading on our foreheads and drenching our shirts.
The flowers were pretty, though.

Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja affinis)

Our fast-pacing friend was way ahead once more. I was relieved that he remembered to stop at the turn to Old Homestead, because there was no chance of us chasing him through the entire loop in that heat.
The Old Homestead is the remains of an old settlers stone house in the forest, and a water duck built from the creek to where the house had stood. The forest was deep and the shade very pleasant. We stayed there for quite a while.
At some point we were accompanied by a sister butterfly:

California Sister Butterfly

The forest floor didn't have as many flowers. Too shady for that. It wasn't completely devoid, though.

Woodbalm (Lepechinia calycina)

As much as we longed to stay in the shade, the time to move on had arrived. We got back to the main trail and, braving the glare of the now mid-day sun, started down the trail back toward the entrance.

Forest and chaparral

The children darted along. With at least two grown ups running after them I felt confident enough to lag behind and stoop over the blossoms I saw, even the tiniest of them. I even took the time to switch lenses for good macro shots.

Pincusionplant (Navarretia sp.)

Going down was much faster. Even with my frequent photo stops. We maid it quickly to the reserve's entrance gate (and yes, the beer bottle was still there, still unopened) and from there to the road and parking lot.

A view down Cold Canyon, roofed with blooming California Buckeye

Cold Canyon is a lovely trail. I do have it on my wish list to go back there and complete the loop someday. When the weather is a bit more favorable, that is.
We stopped for ice cream on the way back to the campground. The children had earned it. I got a sixpack and shoved it inside an ice box.
It was nice to have a cold one, back at the campground. The children went to the water again. Our friends broke camp and packed their things. Then we sat down for a late lunch. A visitor that joined us at the table had all the childrens very excited. It seemed harmless enough and had no interest in us or our food. It merely sat still and posed for the camera. That was the first time any of us saw a mayfly.

Mayfly on the picnic table

Mayflies leave almost a year long, as larvae in the water. When they reach their final metamorphosis and pop into the air it is for the grand finale: to fly, mate, lay eggs and die.
As far as insects go, the mayfly is a pretty one. I love its sickle posture.
Then our friends departed and us quails were alone at the campsite. It took one look at Papa Quail, sweltering semi-conscious by the table, for me to realize that our time there has ended as well. We did make one last attempt to find a worthwhile trail for the morrow, but were too tired and hot to make the effort real. Everyplace we were told we should find water turned out to be bone dry when we fount it.
We returned to the campground and broke camp, Papa Quail in silence and me  with low grumbling. We packed the car, took a final look at the lake, bade farewell to the osprey and drove home one full day short of our plan.

Lake Berryessa, right by our campsite at Putah Creek

I was in a very sour mood that evening. I didn't even bothered to unpack the car. The thought of spending the following day indoors doing house chores in the blasting air conditioning while the chikas zombie out in front of the TV was all too depressing. I wasn't shy of voicing my thoughts so Papa Quail had promised that we would go hiking.
When there is a serious heat wave inland there is really only once place to go for a decent hike, and that's the Pacific Coast. I entrusted Papa Quail with the job of finding us a good place to hike and he found the perfect place: Mori Point, at Pacifica.


Many thanks for members of the California Wildlife Appreciators group for their help in identifying the mayfly! 

Finding Refuge at Pope Canyon by Lake Berryessa

Date: May 24, 2014
Place: Pope Canyon, Lake Berryessa, Napa County, California
Coordinates: 38.624490, -122.323297
Length: about 3 miles in and out
Difficulty:  easy (under normal weather conditions).  Moderate, if going down to the creek.

We returned from our hike at Smittle Creek and crashed in the campsite. The heat was too intense to do anything. The chikas and their friend went down to the lake and submerged for hours in the brown, murky water of Lake Berryessa. The adults slouched around in various states of sleepiness.

At 4:00 pm I managed to get up and announced that we'll be going to another hike. It was hot no matter what, I argued, so we might as well find a more attractive place to spend the rest of the afternoon than the over-crowded campground where the booming noise of jet boats was pounding into our cooked brains.
It took a long time to get the children up from the lake, feed them (and us) and get ready to go. Then one of our friends who were camping with us, had decided he preferred to remain in the campsite. His son decided to stay with him. So eventually it was just us Quails with one of our friends went to hike at Pope Canyon Trail.

We did not have a proper map of the area, just a flier we got from the campground personnel. It had a simple illustration of the roads and the trail and a brief description how to get to the trailhead. Although it was unmarked, we did find it without too much trouble, because it was the only apparent trail beginning at that segment of Pope Canyon Road.
We parked the car at the small pullout, hoisted our water packs and cameras and plunged into the woods.
The trail is an old, apparently unused (or very little used) dirt road. From the road it descends towards the creek between a forest of live oaks.

It was hot under the trees but quickly got much hotter when we reached the creek and the trees disappeared as we followed the creek from above.

We didn't see any animals along the way. Not even lizards. They too, were taking refuge from the intense heat. Only crazy humans would be walking out in the sun in this weather.
The flowers, however, didn't hide anywhere.

California Poppy (Eschscholazia california)

There weren't many, but enough to keep me focused on the hike. My companions, on the other hand, have begun showing signs of heat exhaustion.

Lupine (Lupine sp.)

We stopped under a bush that was big enough to cast sufficient shade. I tried pushing the heat off my mind and explore the nearby flowers.

Coyote Mint (Monardella villosa)

There was plenty of time to take a closer look. Apparently, we weren't going anywhere from under the bush.

Coyote Mint (Monardella villosa)

Pushing on until someone succumbed to heat stroke was definitely not on our plan. Looking below, however, I suggested we should continue forward and find a way down to the creek, where we could cool off in the water. The idea was tempting enough to get the chikas from under the bush and we moved on.

Pope Canyon, view east

On the flier we had there was a short broken line that marked a trail going down to the creek. Deciding we had walked far enough we started looking for it.

Naked Buckwheat (Eriogonum nudum)

We found it, right around the cliff overlooking the canyon. The thought of soon dipping in the water had us almost running down that trail.

Pope Canyon, a view from the main trail

The downward trail turned out to be almost fully overgrown with vegetation. It sure has been a long time since anyone went down that way. We had to push our way through the thicket, often worry whether the trail would be at all passable. At least the bushes were blooming.

Yerba Santa (Eriodictyon californicum)

We did make it down eventually. There was more shade below, and also one very pleasant surprise: a spicebush in bloom!

Spicebush (Calycanthus occidentalis)

At the bottom of the trail we faced another obstacle. One that almost had us give up in despair. Between the end of the trail and the creek bed grew a field of high, sticky and thorny weeds.
After our campground rattle snake encounter we were all worried about meeting them in the tall grass. Going through these weeds was difficult, and we couldn't see a trail going down the last ledge over the creek. At that point Papa Quail and the chikas were ready to call it quits.
I wasn't ready to give up yet. Not when we were so close! So while the rest of my family sat in the shade at the bottom of the trail, gathering their energies to go back up I scouted some more in the field of weeds.

The Great Barrier Weed

My dogged stubbornness eventually paid off - I managed to find a path to the creek through the weeds and a patch of willows. I went back to my family to find that my friend was already half way up the trail. With renewed energy I run up and convinced her to go back down, and together we plowed through the narrow path in the weeds and found ourselves at last near the water.

Pope Creek, view east

It was late afternoon and the shadows were getting longer, but still haven't reached our side. We found a place to cross the shallow stream to the shady south bank. Papa Quail laid down on the pebbles and dosed off while all the rest of us stripped and entered the water.

Pope Creek, view west

The water, shallow, murky, and overgrown with algae as it was, was heaven to us. We felt the heat leaving our bodies and our minds go clearer with every inch of skin submerged. We found pockets of deeper water where we sat with just our heads poking out. Then, after we cooled enough, we went up the stream to explore a bit.

Blow Wives (Achyrachaena mollis)

The place is truly beautiful. I wish we'd had more time to explore it properly. If only it wasn't that hot!
By that time, it was getting pretty late. We needed to get back up while there was daylight still. So with much regret we got out of the water, dried off and dressed up. Papa Quail, who'd had a good rest, found the energy to lift up his camera again.

Killdeer

Going up was easier than going down. The temperature has dropped somewhat, and the shadows were longer. Rejuvenated by the creek water we made it back to the main trail and were on our way to the car.

Soap Plant (Chlorogalum pomeridianum), with a visitor

The sun was setting, so we had to hurry.

Going back

Back at the campground, the chika's friend got annoyed when the girls shared our creek's experience with him and complained how come I didn't tell him we'll be swimming. How could I tell him how close we were all to have missed this swim! All I said was that I didn't know that we would, and that much of going someplace new is about exploration and discovery. It's all about taking the chance and seeing what's out there.

A Scorching Day at the Smittle Creek Trail by Lake Berryessa

Date: May 24, 2014
Place: Lake Berryessa, Napa County, California
Coordinates: 38.574654, -122.244607
Length: about 4 miles
Difficulty: easy

Last Memorial Day Weekend we went with friends to explore Lake Berryessa. The lake, nestled in the hills east of Napa County, is a large recreational area and provides plenty of opportunities for outdoors fun for vacationers, including a few hiking trails.
We arrived at Putah Canyon campground on Friday evening. After the excitement of our arrival, which was much enhanced by the sighting of a small rattle snake right by our campsite, we had a quick dinner, pitched our tents and went to bed.
We had planned a long weekend of Nature fun and lots of hiking. Not in our plan was the triple-digit day time temperatures.
Night time temperatures were only slightly lower. It was hot and muggy and the people in the neighboring campsite had a loud domestic dispute late into the night. In short - we didn't sleep well at all. What cheered us was the sighting of a very close by osprey nest.

An osprey nesting on a power line pole, at Putah Creek Campground. 

We headed out to the hiking trail right after breakfast, hoping to put as many miles bend us before the heat became unbearable. The campground personnel suggested a few trails and we selected the Smittle Creek Trail, which is south of Putah Canyon Campground where we stayed.
This trail connects the Oak Shores Day Use Area. We left our cars at the north one and begun hiking south along the lake shore.

I didn't expect to see much green this late in spring and indeed, the grasses were in advanced drying state. The sloping hillsides were covered with live oaks and very soon we were thankful for every spot of shade we got when the trail delved into the forest.

Coyote Mint (Monardella villosa)

The grassland underneath the oaks wasn't just greenish-yellow. It was also dotted with quit a few colorful late spring wildflowers.

Yellow Mariposa Lily (Calochortus luteus)

Lake Berryessa is quite large but, like other California lakes, has lost much water in the course of the recent drought.

Lake Berryessa

We didn't see the woodpeckers, but their work was all around us to see.

Grub-hunting woodpecker holes in a dead oak trunk

The most common woodpecker in that area is the acorn woodpecker. Their larders where everywhere.

An empty acorn larder, ready to be stocked. 

Live oaks are the dominant tree species there, but other trees can be found here and there. The madrone, as usual, stands out with its bright red, peeling bark.

California Madrone

Another tree we saw there was the California Buckeye. Still in bloom, like a big, festive candle chandelier.

California Buckeye (Aesculus californica)

The temperatures were rising. Soon we were halting under every little patch of shade along the way to gulp some water and wipe the sweat off.

Frequent stops means more attention to the little things. Things that are camouflaged too well to notice on a fast walk.

Or not camouflaged at all, but too common to otherwise stop for.

Twining Snakelily (Dichelostemma volubile)

At some point we found that our friends were no longer with us. They have continued fast down the trail without realizing we weren't following them. We didn't hurry to keep up. The chikas were getting exhausted by the heat and there were just too many pretty flowers too look at closely.

Harvest Brodiaea  (Brodiaea elegans)

The trail meanders along what used to be the lake shore and now is far above the water line.

How extended drought and water overuse look like at Lake Berryessa

The exposed lake bed was reclaimed by vegetation. Not trees yet, but if this drought continues (I sure hope not!) then the forest might make its way back into the valley floor.

Pricklyburr (Datura inoxia)

By then it was very hot indeed. Had we all stayed together we might have made the decision to turn back. Since our friends have disappeared ahead we had no choice but to continue on and let the flowers brighten the mood.

Giant Blue-eyed Mary (Collinsia grandiflora)

I found there a common member of the chaparral community. It was interesting to see it all alone, in a non-chapparal area.

Chamise (Adenostoma fasciculatum)

Heat waves were rising from the ground. The whole scenery, beautiful as it was, was swimming in front of my eyes.

Live Oak forest

Looking down, avoiding the glare of the sun. Seeing the little flowers that reveled in it.

Pincusionplant (Navarretia sp.)

And the lizards who were celebrating it.

And then, all of a sudden, we were one curve away from the Oak Shores Day Use Area Area and the end of our trail. Are friends were waiting for us there and as they saw us approaching they started waiving and shouting. Seeing them, Papa Quail took our younger chika by the hand and plunged into the vegetation,  cutting through were once used to be a lake's cove over to the picnic area. The elder chika was on the trail ahead of us so I continued after her. Soon I was very thankful for it because of all the lovely clarkias that were decorating the last portion of the trail.

Woodland Clarkia (Clarkia unguiculata)

We reached the picnic area and slumped under a picnic area shade canopy. Our original plan was for all of us to return the way we came but that was not going to happen. Not in that heat. After some rest and some snack one of our friends and I started back to get the cars. A gopher snake crossed our path.

Gopher Snake

After the first trail curve my friend suggested we cut straight through the hill to Knoxville road for a shorter, quicker walk.
Cutting through the brush isn't normally quicker, but the road was pretty close and I agreed. It wasn't easy going up the hill but we did reach the road without too much trouble, and got to see some more flowers along the way.

(Leptosiphon sp.)

We got the cars and headed back to the campground. The kids run straight to the water and the adults collapsed in the shade. After I rested enough I got up to prepare lunch and I noticed Papa Quail aiming his camera to the sky. There was the osprey, getting lunch as well.

Osprey with the Catch of the Day, flying over Lake Berryessa

She had a very good reason too - a hungry youngster was waiting for her at home :-)

Osprey and young in the nest, Putah Canyon Campground

It wasn't until much later in the afternoon before we were ready to go out for another hike.