Wednesday, January 8, 2020

Starting the New Year on the Right Wing: A Birding Walk at the Cosumnes River Preserve


Date: January 1, 2020
Place: Cosumnes River Preserve, Galt, California
Coordinates: 38.265874, -121.439240
Length: 1.5 miles
Level: easy

On the first morning of 2020 we checked out of our hotel in Jackson after a few days at the Gold Country with extended family who came to spend the winter break with us. On the last day of 2019 I took most of our family group up to the snow while Pappa Quail and Grandma Quail went separately to check out the nature preserves down in the valley. In the evening when we regrouped Pappa Quail simply announced that on New Year's Day we will be going all of us to two of the birding places he and his mother has been to that day. One of these places would be the Cosumnes River Preserve.
(Most of the photos here were taken on 1/1/2020 but I added a few that Pappa Quail took on his mom and son hike the day before.)
Our Hike as captured by my GPS
It was already late in the morning when we arrived at the parking lot of the Cosumnes River Preserve, and found it nearly completely full. The nice day attracted many birders, hikers, and other people who wanted to spend the first day of 2020 in Nature.
We circled the parking lot twice before finding space. Then Pappa Quail ushered us promptly to the trailhead, behind the visitor center. There we crossed a slough on a foot bridge. We paused on the bridge to look for birds. I looked down but the water was invisible under a thick layer of vegetation, red for winder.
The Middle Slough
The Cosumnes River is the only Sierra Nevada west-flowing river that isn't dammed. The natural flow seasonally floods areas in the valley that are not diked off. Nowadays the flooding of the Preserve fields are managed.

On the other side of the bridge we came upon a flooded area. At first glance it looked empty. When we approached however, we spotted a few ducks - northern pintail duck.  
Northern Pintail
What was lacking on the water was compensated in the air. Large flocks of birds dotted the blue sky and filled the air with their cries. Many were geese, but we could here crane calls too.
Geese in the Sky
Geese fly in large flocks. Raptors fly alone. Red-tailed hawks are common in the area and, sure enough, Pappa Quail spotted one circling the sky above.
Red-tailed Hawk
We walked very slowly on the cement path along the shore of the flooded field. I admit I wasn't as attentive to Nature as I normally am on hikes. I was enjoying the company of family members I don't get to see very often.
Pappa Quail wasn't distracted. He hound a vulture too.
Turkey Vulture
After leaving the pond side the path continued as a boardwalk into an open forest of valley oaks in their winter wear. The soft sunlight sifted through the bare canopies and one by one coats and sweaters were taken off.

A quick motion at the top of one of the oaks was detected and soon Pappa Quail and the elder chika had their cameras trained on that spot, following the action of a downy woodpecker busying about.
Downy Woodpecker
New Year's Day is hardly considered spring time in Northern California but that didn't bother the squirrels who were running around chasing each other with full springtime energies. We watched with amusement four squirrels who were in a hot chase after one another. Eventually one of them did catch the leader and the two made springtime happen right before our eyes.
Eastern Fox Squirrels
As we moved along the path I noticed that the oaks were growing in neat rows like in an orchard. Other, less botanically inclined members of my family noticed it too. These oaks are native to this area, but they were all approximately the same size and very orderly spaced - clearly they were planted there. I assume it is part of a rehabilitation process of this area.
Valley Oaks, Quercus lobata
The valley oak is a keystone species in the California Central Valley, providing habitat for a plethora of animal species and other beings. These trees can grow to a massive size (I've seen some huge ones at the Bobelaine Audubon Sanctuary last November). Here at the Cosumnes Preserve, the planted oaks were still pretty young. Small as they were, they were already fulfilling their role as home to plenty of little bush birds that in turn, kept the birders in my family very happy.
Ruby-crowned Kinglet. 12/31/2019
There are two species of kinglets in California. The ruby-crowned in the top photo is the one we usually see. The other one, the golden-crowned kinglet had eluded my birders for the longest time until they finally spotted one on the Sauk Mountain Trail in Washington last summer.
Guess what, the busy birders found one right there at the Cosumnes Preserve!
Golden-crowned Kinglet
The wide blue band of sky was like a huge high definition screen through which passed flock after flock of birds. The geese were easy enough to tell by their size and the beautiful arrowhead formation.
Geese in flight
In a less orderly flight but much noisier than the geese (if that was even possible) were the sandhill cranes. Later that day we would see them up close in the fields of Staten Island.
Sandhill Cranes
We followed the trail as it led us next to the slough. In the water - mallards only. The family group progressed slowly and stretched over a good length of the path, like colorful beads strung on the gray strip of cement. I paused, waiting for everyone to regroup, gazing at the reflection in the calm water.
Middle Slough
Eventually we crossed the river again back to the road side, some distance away from the visitor center. There we crossed the road as well, and followed the trail to the flooded fields on the west side of the preserve.
There, higher above as I usually see them, little tree swallows performed fast aerobatics, catching bugs in the air.
Tree Swallow
The fields west of the road were fully flooded and the grass along their banks was lush and green. I imagined this scene stretching on and on all the way to the horizon as it used to be before the draining of the Delta. It's easy enough to do in a completely flat landscape.
Cosumnes River Preserve
The flooded fields are very shallow with many vegetation bars or islands where birds can rest in relative safety. A snipe was foraging on one of these islands off shore. It moved slowly in and out of the vegetation, its plumage pattern blending nicely in the background.
Wilson's Snipe
Other shorebirds were more in the open, confidently poking through the mud in search of morsels. 
Greater Yellowlegs
Red-winged blackbirds were very active all over the place. Unlike the squirrels however, springtime hasn't come around for them yet - they were all very silent. The shrill song of the male red-winged blackbird that fills the airwaves in spring was noticeably missing.
Red-winged Blackbird
The trail forks off into the flooded field. Right by the junction the preserve's docents and volunteers set up a table with a beautiful display of information and observation stations with telescopes trained on the waterfowl in the ponds and microscopes with water samples containing little water critters that can be found in the flooded area. Needless to say, we had a very long stop there to look at everything. I also tried taking pictures of the water bugs, taking the chance to look closer at life that I don't usually stop to appreciate during my hikes.
Daphnia, copepod, and shrimp 
I don't know the names of all these creatures. If I find out later on I'll update here. Many of these were crustaceans. Others were insects - both mature and larvae.
Beetles? 
It was very cool to see how much life flourishes right below the water surface. It is a clear indication of the health of the water in the preserve.
Shrimp
The wealth of invertebrate life in the flooded fields also provide food for the birds of the preserve, both resident and seasonal visitors.
Beetle? 
At first I though that the samples where concentrated on purpose but after I finally detached myself from the display table and moved down the trail into the ponds area I looked down at the water and saw that this was indeed the actual concentration of critters in the water. Probably denser. I sat there for some time, looking into the water, mesmerized. I couldn't see deeper than 2 inches down because it was so dense.
Wetland life
When I realized I was on my own I got up on my feet and chased my family down the path through the flooded ponds.

Most of the vegetation in the flooded area was herbaceous but in one place the boardwalk trail passes between shrubs.
Trail
I walked past quickly because the shrubs obstructed the view of the fields but Pappa Quail found his subjects of interest right there in those bushes.
Orange-crowned Warbler ssp. orestera
On the day before he found there in the bushes a pretty warbler in black and white plumage. It was overcast that day so the photo itself looks like black and white.
Black-throated Gray Warbler, male. Photo taken on 12/31/2019
That almost black and white photo of the warbler enticed me to do something I don't usually do - I chose one of my nicer view photos of the ponds and turned it black and white, for art's sake. I think it turned out pretty :-)

In color of course, the area looks alive and not as if taken from an old landscape photography book.
At the end of the intra-pond trail was a large, rounded observation deck. There were many people standing there, gazing at the water. So did we.
Cosumnes River Preserve
Most of the time I simply gazed or otherwise engaged in chats with my family. Pappa Quail and the elder chika however, were busy birdwatching.
Black Phoebe
We returned from the ponds backtracking on the same boardwalk back to the display table. From there it was a short distance along the shore to the visitor center where we parked. Still, this short stretch of paved trail took us a long time to walk because there was so much to see.
White-fronted Geese 
White fronted geese where by large the most common bird in the preserve on the day we were there. There were literally everywhere - on shore, in the air and in the water. Many of them were resting, others were foraging using the 'bottoms up' method of sifting though the muck for all those nourishing goodies the bottom.
White-fronted Goose. Photo taken on 12/31/2019
There were many ducks in the water as well. Mallards, which are the most common duck most times of the year were actually a minority when we were there. Wintering ducks where plenty.
Cinnamon Teal. Photo taken on 12/31/2019
A few of these photos were taken by Pappa Quail on the previous day. Apparently there were more ducks and they were closer. I assume that was because there were less people there as well.
Green-winged Teal
Grandma Quail wondered where were all the ducks they've seen yesterday. The rest of my family however, didn't feel deprived. Either way, there was plenty to look at.
Ring-necked Duck, female and 3 males. Photo taken on 12/31/2019
We progressed at a crawling speed toward the end of our hike and I looked back in time to see a large flock of blackbirds swirling in the air.

I stirred out of my reverie to the sound of excitement talk from Pappa Quail and the elder chika - apparently they spotted an unusual duck. I looked at where they were pointing at but all I saw was a group of northern shovelers, a very common duck overwintering in California. 
Northern Shoveler, From left to right: female, male, hybrid male
Immediately I was educated by my very excited chika - among the shovelers was a duck that was a hybrid between a northern shoveler and a blue-winged teal. A cross species hybrid. Apparently that happens every now and then.
Hybrid of Northern Shoveler and a Blue-winged Teal. Male
What was more unusual was that it was the second duck hybrid that my elder chika had recently identified. The other one was a hybrid between an Eurasian wigeon and an and American wigeon that she'd seen last November at the Gray Lodge Wildlife Area.
Come to think of it, it was she who also noticed the unusual couple of a make wood duck and a female mallard way back in 2013 at the Sepulveda Basin Wildlife Reserve. She has a good eye for these things.

We continued on toward the visitor center. A closed to the public trail extended westward between ponds and on the sign stood a small brown bird - a juvenile American pippit. I called Pappa Quail's attention to this bird, and that was the last bird I paid attention to on this hike.
American Pipit
I did like the sight of the mistletoe balls hanging on the bare-leaved trees between the trail and the road. Mistletoe doesn't senesce during winter.

The first time I visited the Cosumnes River Preserve was when we participated for the second time at the Lodi Sandhill Crane Festival. At that time however, we were brought in with a group by a bus to see the crane fly-in at sundown and didn't hike at all there. This time we were there at broad day light. The only cranes we saw there were up in the sky, but we got to see many other birds on their daily activities and we got educated by the preserve's staff on the local ecology, which is very fascinating. And we had a lovely, easy and beautiful hike that all parts of my family had enjoyed, and gave it a big thumbs up.
At the end of our hike we took a little more time to check out the display at the visitor center and to report our findings before heading off for lunch. It was a wonderful start of the new year.


Wednesday, December 25, 2019

Going Underground: Hiking to and inside Pluto's Cave

Spelunking 101

Date: November 25, 2019
Place: Pluto's Cave, Weed, California
Coordinates:41.571337, -122.279208
Length: about 2 miles including inside the cave
Level: challenging - involving much rock scrambling. Must take flashlights inside.

I always held fascination with caves, and whenever there is an opportunity I'll happily go into one for exploration. I'm please to say that my chikas share this fascination and are enthusiastic about cave exploration as well.
That said, most of the caves we visited in California were tamed with cemented trails and stairs, electric lights and guided tours. Occasionally we do get to explore a wild cave that hasn't been tamed or capitalized on, and Pluto's Cave is such. It had been on my wanna go there list for quite some time and last November I finally got the chance to go there.
Pluto's Cave Trailhead
The chikas' school was out for the entire week of Thanksgiving but Pappa Quail was still at work so I invited the chikas best friend and took all three on a three days vacation in the area of Redding. On Monday we had a lovely day in which we toured the Shasta Lake Dam and after that drove northeast to Weed. As the day progressed the weather changed from clear and windy to cloudy and windier. We stopped at the town of Mt. Shasta for a late lunch during which light precipitation begun - in the shape of flurries. I was a bit concerned but when we finally arrived at the Pluto's Cave trailhead northeast of Weed we were in dry land.
Late in the afternoon when we started down the trail. The sky was overcast and the air was very cold. We walked briskly, intending to get underground as soon as possible to avoid the cold wind.
Our hike as captured by my GPS.
The area of Pluto's Cave is a volcanic high desert. We walked on a narrow path of volcanic sand that was very dry despite recent rains. The ground was covered with sagebrush and sparse junipers. A couple of hikers returning from the cave came down the trail and paused for a quick chat. They described a short tunnel with a high ceiling and a steep pass on the other side. It didn't sound like the descriptionI read of the cave but I figured we'll soon find out for ourselves how the cave was. After these two hikers went on their way we were left all alone in the wilderness.
Junipers along the trail
Pluto's Cave is a lava tube, created when volcanic lava flow that crusted on the outside while the inside liquid lava drained away, leaving a tubular tunnel. The lava beds of the Cascade volcanoes in Northern California have many such lava tubes. A few of these caves, like those at the Lava Beds National Monument or The Subway Cave are arranged for visitors. Others are more 'wild', without artificial light, arranged trails, or even a spot on the map.
Pluto's Cave has a spot on the map with a small parking area, a trailhead and an access trail. It even has an entry in the Klamath National Forest website, but that's all. Otherwise, this cave is not managed in any way.
The Side Arch 
Lava tubes become exposed when the ceiling collapses. Naturally, people are not the only explorers who find and enter these caves. As we descended into the collapse area at the end of the access trail the chikas noticed a bird's nest up on a ledge right below the ceiling. The nest's builder wasn't there. I assume it moved someplace warmer for the winter.
Bird's Nest
A large gaping hole at the left side of the collapse area leads to a short tube that ends with a high opening. It is possible to climb there but we didn't. We explored this shorter tunnel for a few minutes, then returned to the collapse area and moved to the main cave's entrance on the right.
The Side Arch from inside
It isn't easy to see the main opening of Pluto's Cave because the entrance is low arched and because of the tall vegetation that grows in the collapsed area. All the bushes were bare while we were there so it didn't take us long to locate the entrance. We pushed through the vegetation along the narrow foot path toward the gaping dark hole.
Pluto's Cave's Entrance
Switching on the headlights we plunged into the darkness. The cave's floor wasn't flat and nice to walk on as that of The Subway Cave. Far from it- it was piles and piles of rocks, broken off the cave's ceiling. We had to carefully walk around or over these rocs and our progress was very slow.
Into the Darkness
It didn't take long however, before we saw light again - through a round hole in the cave's ceiling.
A Window of Light
The next bit of dark cave wasn't long either - we soon came into another place where the cave collapsed. Like the collapse area at the cave's entrance, this too was filled with tall bushes bare of leaves. The path here was much narrower and harder to walk through. It seems that much fewer people went this far.
In Between
Past the second collapse area we plunged once again into the darkness, and this time with no more 'windows'. By then I also realized that my headlight was low on battery and had to use my phone's flashlight app which slowed my progress whenever I needed to use my hands to climb the rocks.
The kids exploring a hole below the path
The cave was certainly more rugged as we moved forward underground. I read that it goes nearly a mile underground and that further on progress requires crawling in tight places. We didn't get that far, maybe a third of a mile altogether. We came to a stop at a large boulder that seemed to block the main tunnel. There was no path under it and going over and around it would have required more serious climbing than any of us was ready to do at the time. The kids were ready to turn around at that point.

Before turning around however, the elder chika noticed a dark spot at the wall and called our attention to it - it was a bat! One of several we've seen in the cave that day, and the nearest one to us. Still, we avoided getting to close to it as to not bother it from its winter hibernation. Pretty exciting though!
Townsend's Big-eared Bat, in hibernation
As I mentioned above Pluto's Cave is not managed. That, however, has a big downside to it, which is that it is also not protected. Despite this cave being wild and natural, people seemed to have no respect to it. I was sad to see that much of the cave walls were defaced with graffiti.
While a few of the graffiti had some sort of artistic merit, most were simply junk. Either way, none of these belong in there and seeing it bothered me greatly.
Graffiti 
Going back was faster than going in. We didn't stop as often to explore and once we've seen the faint light coming through the collapse holes we moved directly that way.

It was already late in the afternoon and also overcast, so the night filtering into the cave was faint. Still, t seemed bright compared with the total darkness inside.

Outside in the in-between collapse area I could tell that evening was at hand. It seemed though that we might have just enough daylight left to walk the long way back so I suggested it to the kids and they accepted.

I had misjudges how quickly the light was fading. It was already after sunset when we took the longer route back. At first there was no problem telling where the trail was. We were walking on a narrow foot path with the wonderful view of the high desert around us and the peaks looming over the lava beds.

Soon however, it became difficult to tell where the trail was and more than once I had to navigate cross country in what I knew to be the general direction of the trailhead.

We arrived at the parking area at nearly total darkness. The wind had picked up and the kids were grateful to get inside the car and away from the whipping gusts. I took a few minutes longer to walk around the parking area and take in the wild sights - I don't know when next I'll have the chance to get to that place.
Juniper at nightfall
Eventually I too got inside the car and we drove away back to Redding. 
We've had a number of nice hikes and other fun activities on the three days we spent in the Redding area before Thanksgiving but our spelunking hike at the Pluto's Cave turned out to be the highlight of our trip for the kids - the most memorable and exciting thing the did. It sure was so for me too!