A Fitting Presidential Legacy: Hiking at the Lady Bird Johnson Grove

Coastal Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens

Date: November 29, 2019
Place: Lady Bird Johnson Grove, Redwood National Park, Orick, California
Coordinates: 41.303376, -124.018061
Link to trailhead
Length: 1.6 miles
Level: easy

Last Thanksgiving break was a split deal for us. On the first three days the chikas were out of school but Pappa Quail was still at work. Those days we were in the Redding and Shasta Area where we explored Pluto's Cave and hiked at the Turtle Bay Nature Area.
When Pappa Quail got his holiday we traveled again to Northern California, but this time along the coast.
It's a long drive to Redwood National Park but there are a number of beautiful redwood groves along the way. We stopped at the Lady Bird Johnson Grove where we had a very nice first hike for this trip.

Our hike as captured by my GPS

A narrow and winding road leads up to the grove. The parking lot is tiny,and it was nearly full when we arrived there. We were fortunate to find the very last parking slot. 

It was surprisingly chilly outside, despite the sunshine. Expecting the forest's shade, we dressed in layers and crossed the foot bridge where the trailhead was.

Indeed, as soon as we crossed the foot bridge into the grove we were in the forest's shade. The sunlight rays filtered through the canopies forming dancing light spots on the trail but for the most part, we were well under the cover of vegetation.

Trying to see the redwood canopies is always a neck-straining ordeal. It is hard to appreciate how high these trees really are.

Coastal Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens

It was easier to focus on the base of these giants' trunks which too are quite impressive. Good ones for a communal hug.

Coastal Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens

The North California coast is one of our top destination choices for Thanksgiving time much because it is the mushroom bloom season. The fall of 2019 was very dry however, and the mushroom bloom was very limited compared with previous years we've been there. I didn't expect to see many mushrooms and indeed there weren't many. But there were a few and I was happy to see them.

Some were harder to photograph than others - they hid in the dark deep underneath the shrubs.

Fungus

What was happening outside and over the shrubs was no less interesting and perhaps even more fascinating: old decomposing logs of fallen redwoods supporting new life as planters for other plants. In this case - California huckleberry, one of the common epiphytic plants growing on redwood pedestals.

California Huckleberry, Vaccinium ovatum 

After about a third of a mile we reached the main loop trail within the grove. There stood a plaque with the grove's dedication by former president Richard Nixon to Lady Bird Johnson, the former first lady of president Lindon Johnson.

There were plenty of real birds in the grove but they were difficult to see and a challenge to photograph among all that vegetation. Pappa Quail scored one hermit thrush that landed on the trail and remained exposed there long enough for a few shots.

Hermit Thrush

In general it wasn't easy to take good photos on that hike. Illumination is always a challenge in the deep forest, especially when the canopies allow enough light through to confuse the camera.
It was a feast to the eyes, however.

There were also many other epiphytes (plants that grow on other plants) beside the huckleberry. Another common one was the bracken fern.

All these epiphytes begin small: I could see on the fallen logs at my eye level the small epiphytic gardens that given time would be dominated by one or a few bigger plants.

The day warmed up as we made our way around the loop trail. The elder chika was miffed about not seeing birds and the younger one whom I set to look for banana slugs for me was running that she couldn't see any. I let them follow Pappa Quail ahead while I remained lagging behind to walk in the peace of the forest.

We found a hollow redwood, which had a good effect on the chikas. They paused their bickering long enough to pose inside the tree for some photographs. Then I too went into the hole.
These holes are caused by fires, often ignited by lightning. The redwood is more fire-resistant than other trees due to its high content of tannic acid, the same chemical that gives it its red color. High tannins concentration also render the redwoods more resistant to pests. Too bad it doesn't make it resistant to human saws.

Redwood Hole 

Another redwood tree had a huckleberry bush growing right out of its trunk. Perhaps it sprouted there and grew as an epiphyte. Perhaps it sprouted on the ground next to the redwood and the tree engulfed it with its ever growing bark.Either way, both plants seem content and healthy with this setting.

California Huckleberry, Vaccinium ovatum growing out of a living redwood

The chikas called me to hurry up and join them - they had spotted another mushroom for me to see. I think I had trained them well.

It is really hard to get an impression of the size of an old growth redwood tree from photos. But I never cease to be impressed by these wonderful giants.

Between the redwoods

We completed the loop trail and turned back toward where the parking lot was. The day had warmed u but the wind intensified as well, and we could see the canopies moving way up above. Despite the sunshine, we remained bundled up in our winter wear.
A weird looking tree caught my attention as we were getting near the end of our hike. It was the biggest epiphyte huckleberry I've seen that day.

A most resilient redwood

I wonder how this tree planter will look like in a few decades. Perhaps I'll even be there to see for myself.

In the Regenerating Kingdom of Trees: Hiking at El Corte de Madera Preserve

View Southwest from Manzanita Trail

Date: October 13, 2018
Place: El Corte de Madera Preserve, Redwood City, California
Coordinates: 37.406016, -122.304327
Length: 4.5 miles
Level: moderate to strenuous

A new school year has begun and with it a new hiking season for our Redwood 4-H Hiking Project. My selection for the season opener was a park that I've never hiked before - El Corte de Madera Preserve west of Redwood City. I went there for a prep hike with a friend but sadly I forgot to take my camera along. I did bring it for the 4H hike and snapped a few shots whenever I had the chance to divert my attention from the project members for a moment.

At the Trailhead

Pappa Quail came along too. He an the elder chika soon found an attraction - a Red Admiral butterfly clinging to a tree.

Red Admiral Butterfly

Shortly after they found the only bird that cooperated with the camera - a brown creeper. All the other birds we saw on the hike hid away quickly, leaving us to enjoy their songs only.

Brown Creeper

We started at the middle parking area which is merely a large pullout off Skyline Blvd. and started on the Sierra Morena Trail which follows the road for about half a mile before  turning onto Fir Trail.

Pacific Madrone, Arbutus menziesii

It was a busy Saturday at that park. Every few minutes we had to squeeze ourselves to the side of the trail to allow bikers to pass by.
Less than half a mile into the Fir Trail we turned left and connected with the Manzanita Trail. We were already descending by now we were walking downward on a much steeper slope. The trail sure lived up to its name - we were walking through high chaparral of mostly manzanita bushes.

Brittle leaf Manzanita, Arctostaphylos crustacea 

The terrain in that park is sandstone of special formation called, Tafoni. I read that on the map and trailhead sign. I could tell we were treading on sandstone but I have not the knowledge to tell that formation from any other. Still I mentioned that bit to the children. One can never tell what bits of information will stick in their minds.

Tafony Sandstone

Down, down, and down we went. We lost much altitude in a very short time. Another parent who went along wondered aloud about having to go all of that back up ... I merely smiled. If any of the children thought about that, they kept it to themselves.
The trail we did was nearly completely shaded. Whenever we were not walking in the high chaparral, we were in the forest. Whenever it was not manzanita, it was the madrone - it's relative. The madrone has a very thin bark. The new bark is green and photosynthetically active. It ages throughout the year and then it peels off to reveal the new green bark underneath.

Pacific Madrone, Arbutus menziesii

We came upon a large patch of spiny fruit on the trail. I didn't know what plant it came from (I could only see manzanita around), and of course the project members asked me what it was ... they had to settle for, "I'll look it up and tell you later".
Back at home I uploaded the photo to the California Native Plants Society page, and within seconds I had the answer - that is the fruit of chinquapin plant, another chaparral bush that I simply didn't pay much attention to before.

Fruit of Giant Chinquapin, Chrysolepis chrysopylla

We kept going on on the Manzanita Trail. In places the manzanita boughs closed over us to form a tunnel.

Tunnel View

In oter places the vegetation opened up and standing on our toes we could see the view to the southwest. We would have been able to see the ocean if not for the blanket of fog that covered it.

View South from the Manzanita Trail

The Manzanita Trail loops around the hill side, making a sharp turn eastward. For a short distance we were walking on the south facing slope and enjoying full sunshine. Accordingly, the vegetation was much lower and less lush.

Manzanita Trail

We connected with the Timberview trail and immediately plunged into dark forest. It could have been darker - this used to be old growth redwood forest, but it was heavily logged. The park's name (El Corte de Madera - tree cutting), indicates that past. All the trees there now are young growth, but the stumps of the old, venerable redwood trees that used to dominate the forest there are still there - silent evidence of the massive destruction of the old California forest.

Logged and regenerated Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens

When we arrived at the Timberview trail a debate started among the youth project members. Some wished to turn right and extend our hike a bit more. Others wanted to turn left and head right away toward the trailhead. Because we've hiked a a very good pace so far (no surprise - we were going mostly downhill) I sided with the kids who wished to extend the hike and so we turned right all the way to Crosscut Trail. After an extension of 0.9 mile and one wrong turn which was corrected after some unnecessary sweat was perspired on an unnecessary upslope we turned back north on Timberview Trail and finally started our way uphill.

Timberview Trail

The forest was much denser and darker along Timberview Trail than we've seen earlier on the hike. The canyon was much deeper too but the creek was dry. We were hearing creaking sounds all around and I remembered that on my prep hike there with my friend I though I was hearing a tree breaking down above us and I made us run uphill a little bit because I feared that a tree might fall on us. Maybe I was exaggerating a bit but trees do collapse in the forest every now and then.

Collapsed Trees

No we were going p and up. The slope of Timberview Trail didn't feel steeper than that of the Manzanita Trail upon which we came down. There were less level itervals, however, leaving the uphill walk continuous and without a break.
We did take it easy, though. stopping every now and then to look at things, like the waterhole in the creek that had a little water left in it still.

Water Hole

This part of the creek appeared to be recently eroded. A sign on the other side announced that 'This is not a trail," making me think that maybe once it actually was. I thing that this would be a nice little waterfall in winter, when the creek will be running.

The hike uphill spread our group. The eager to finish kids made it uphill quickly. perhaps the others were just as eager but didn't wish to spend up. I found myself at the rear, helping my young chika along - she had a blister forming on her heel and was hurting with each step. She was one of the kids who wanted to extend the hike and now she moped about that choice. I supported her the best I could,  which was mainly staying by her side and listening to her runts all the way up. I consoled myself with the sight of a perfect, lush fern by the trailside.

When we finished the hike we decided to meet together at a restaurant in Redwood City for lunch. Pappa Quail treated the chika's blister and taking a long goodby look at the forest we said goodby and drove off. 

El Corte de Madera park has a complex trail system and we had sampled only a little but of it. There is much more to explore in that park and I hope to get back there soon. Perhaps after the rains begin and the banana slugs come out. 

Many thanks to members of the California Native Plants Society for their help in identifying plants!
Thank you Anenet for identifying the butterfly! 

Regrown Beauty: The Forest of Nisene Marks

 

Date: September 2, 2017
Place: The Forest of Nisene Marks, Aptos, California
Coordinates: 36.985961, -121.904619
Length: About 2.5 miles
Level: easy

I was looking for new places to take my family hiking group to early fall. Considering the heat wave we California was going through at the time I was left with one of two options: the ocean coast or the redwood forest. Naturally I was drawn to the Santa Cruz area that features both fantastic beaches and some marvelous forests. It didn't take a long time to select a destination. I called a couple of my friends and together we went to The Forest of Nisene Marks State Park to explore.
My first hike there was a very beautiful one, but too challenging for a group of families with small children. So a few days later I was there again, this time with my own family, to hike one of the lower loops close to the park's entrance. We hiked a loop trail that combined sections of the Old Growth Loop, the Live Oak Loop, and the Terrace Loop trails, and we hiked it clockwise. A day before the planned group hike I snuck back to the park and did a solo hike of the same trail, counterclockwise. Most of the photos I share here are from those two hikes, with a few additions from the group hikes of the following week.

Finding parking on nice weekends can be challenging there. On Labor Day weekend the place was jam-packed. We got there early enough to sneak unto the last legal spot and by the time we gathered all our things and were ready to hit the trail there was a long line of cars parked in little pull outs along the road and many more waiting at the gate.

Our family hike as captured by Pappa Quail's GPS

I took a moment to decide which loop to start on, but not before long, we were on the trail.

We didn't get very far before our first stop: the elder chika found some ripe blackberries. Naturally, we all stopped for a snack and got our fingers stained with berry juice and blood.

As surprised as I was to see blackberries so late in season, I was even more surprised to see some still blooming. I guess there will be fruit even later this fall.

I didn't expect to see much bloom if any. But I did see a few redwood sorrel flowers, almost completely hidden in the foliage. 

Redwood Sorrel, Oxalis oregana 

Our path took us across Aptos Creek. A narrow wooden bridge transversed the water and almost underneath it was a 'dam' of rocks and driftwood. Upstream the dam the water flow was slow, almost unnoticeable. The water surface was very calm, mirroring perfectly the canyon image. 

Reflection

It was tempting to sit near the water and we did stay there for some time, but before long I prompted my family along, reminding the chikas of our plans to go to the beach after the hike. On my subsequent hikes there with the family hiking groups we hiked the loop in the opposite direction and so finished the hike at this lovely spot, allowing plenty f time to hang out and have fun there. 

I had one more reason to lead my groups clockwise on the following hikes: the trail west of the creek is quite steep for s good distance and I assumed most people would find it easier to walk it downhill rather than uphill as I did with my family. 

Going uphill west of Aptos Creek: a Five Fingers Fern and Redwood Sorrel

The slope west of Aptos Creek was a sad sight: a huge area was almost completely taken over by English Ivy: an extremely aggressive invasive plant. Once taking root, this plat cannot be eradicated, It flourishes in the Bay Area, covering large areas and choking the local vegetation, including tall trees upon which it climbs. I've seen this at Mt. Tamalpais and Henry Cowell Redwoods State Parks, and now here. I recently learned of a plan to make biological warfare on the ivy, and my feelings are mixed because it involves releasing another foreign species - an insect that's supposed to feed specifically on the English Ivy. It's a good thought, but what if the bug mutates to broaden its palate to  native species? 

English Ivy

Near the slope's apex there was a side trail leading to the Advocate Tree - a 1000 years old redwood that was spared when the forest was logged 150 years ago. I went down that trail and my family followed. 

I was saddened to see the this majestic tree on the ground. A card with the tree's historic timeline was attached to the tree roots. On the card it said that the tree collapsed during last winter.

The Advocate Tree

After a few minur\tes I noticed the fresh redwood growth that was sprouting from the fallen tree trunk in several places. The Advocate Tree was downed, but not dead! Not yet, anyway. I am amazed at the resilience of this species. These trees are truly awesome.

The Advocate Tree New Growth

We returned to the main trail and continued uphill. My elder chika found a strawberry and after getting my approval she ate it. This is an exotic strawberry species, one that is used in gardening and now escaped to the wild.

Indian Strawberry, Duchesnea indica  Non-native.

They found a banana slug too. A bit surprising, considering how hot and dry the day was.

Banana Slug

A redwood forest isn't the ideal place to look for fall colors but nonetheless they are apparent to those who look for them. And I did look for fall colors. None better wearing fall reds than the good old poison oak.

Poison Oak, Toxicodendron diversilobum

Meanwhile Pappa Quail found a butterfly and managed to capture a nice photo when the critter paused its flight for a second.

He also got a nice capture of the California Sister that the chikas had sighted further up the trail.

California Sister Butterfly

Up on the hill the trail leveled and then started down in a mild slope. We were walking among tall and thin redwoods, young fairy rings that sprouted from the base of the logged old tree that was there before. All these thin redwoods are the young scions of the old growth ancient trees that are now beams and walls of houses in San Francisco and other area towns.

Young as they are, these redwoods are immensely tall. Given time and the right conditions they will become even taller, and as massive as their progenitors.

Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens 

We could hear many birds in the canopy, but those we saw on the ground and in the undergrowth were the common dark-eyed juncos. They were looking for seeds.

Dark-eyed Junco 

We kept descending and eventually arrived at the Vienna Woods Trail. There we turned back south, parallel to the Aptos Creek.
While the creek was flowing still, the forest itself was dry, ready to receive the expected rains. There were spiderwebs everywhere, of every kind. We weren't the first people on that trail so we didn't have to walk through the cobwebs.

Everywhere around us were the stumps of the loved old trees, with or without the new stump-sprouted young redwoods. On on of those stumps I was surprised to see growing a completely different tree - a tan oak, as if grafted onto the redwood stump.

Still high above the creek we found a beautiful view point on the canyon and the flowing water. A thin rope was hanging from a tree limb high over the creek and I wondered at what point did people feel inclined to swing over the stream.

The creek of course, had been flowing much higher and stronger not very long ago. As we made our way down to the valley floor we could tell by the wash signs and the huge pile of driftwood just how high the flow was last winter, even without considering the pole that was stuck in the sand as a marker.
there too was a rope hanging over the sand. It was over the water at some point, that's for sure.

I don't think I'd have risked myself going into the water while the current was strong enough to carry theses logs.

We arrived at the second crossing of Aptos Creek and found that there was no bridge there. The creek was shallow now, and the current week. Pappa Quail and the elder chika balanced on the rocks while me and the younger chika took our shoes off and waded across. The water was cold, very refreshing in the heat of the day. On my subsequent hikes I brought my hiking poles along and used them to balance on the rocks as well.

Aptos Creek

We connected with the Aptos Creek Fire Road and continued south toward the entrance station where we were parked. On our way we came across a nice observation deck. I had not realized how much height we had gained over the creek in such a short distance. But come to think of it, it is probably the creek that had dropped its altitude.

Observation Deck

By the time we had made it back to the car the day had turned sweltering hot. From there we drove to Natural Bridges State Beach and topped our day in the wonderful tide pools there and refreshed ourselves in the cold Pacific Ocean water.

On my solo hike a few days laterI took the time to look around a bit more and I found more ripe blackberries to snack on.
I also found more lovely fall colors. We're definitely ready for the rain here.

Fall Colors